Subaru 6 Cylinder EZ30R Conversion PROGRESS, VIDEOS Cruising, Videos WOT!!!! Options

[DBCooper]

Was that a Renegade engine cradle at one time? I haven't actually seen one before. And I wasn't aware you'd done a cable shifter, so guess I'll have to do a search to find out more about it.

By the way, if your Boxter muffler makes your car sound anything like this EZ30R then you've got a winner: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYsZ1-IqS1w

[v82go]

Anything new on the EZ30 project ?

[budman5201]

Its up and running. Map is almost done, dyno this weekend.

Here is a video of it running. click for youtube video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abu5jt1SsZE

[jsayre914]

cool video (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I could not imagine how fast i might accidentally drive with 250hp, i get tickets with 90hp (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

what are the back wheels resting on in that video??

[budman5201]

cool video (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I could not imagine how fast i might accidentally drive with 250hp, i get tickets with 90hp (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

what are the back wheels resting on in that video??

They are my custom jack stands. Solid Metal boxes that I found that I welded the covers onto.

Radiator fans are now individually controlled by ecu. They come on at different temps so no huge draw when they pop on individually.

[budman5201]

She's off the Jackstands! Drove her around the block today. Definitely going to do a self autotune for AFR ratio tonight. I know my map is close, but just want to make sure.

Here is my Ethrottle and how i attached it to the stock pedal. Needs major adjustment. Throttle is way too touchy. I lowered the ball snap in point on the pedal so the pedal had more travel, which seems to help a lot.

Now for the fun parts....fine tuning! I knew i should of put back the NON-PUCK clutch pad. This one grabs like a SOB!


Man my camera made everything look rusty, its not its just painted original orange with a little glue residue on the floorboards.

[charliew]

Be careful that clutch will put a lot of shock on the tranny. Maybe it will break in some. Aftermarket clutches can be real hard on trannys. The light car will help a lot. You can move the gas pedal through the motion you want and measure the full motion of the sender and put the ball socket exactly on the pedal where the full motion can be utilized.

[budman5201]

Be careful that clutch will put a lot of shock on the tranny. Maybe it will break in some. Aftermarket clutches can be real hard on trannys. The light car will help a lot. You can move the gas pedal through the motion you want and measure the full motion of the sender and put the ball socket exactly on the pedal where the full motion can be utilized.

I did a lot of tuning/driving this weekend so far. I agree the puck clutch was good for the turbo, because i reached the limit of grabbing power. But with this motor, I am definately putting the standard one back. The puck isnt bad when your moving, just starting up and stopping which is A LOT of the driving for a street car, not comfortable and jerky.

Oh by the way, the boxster muffler sounds awesome and VERY quiet at low rpms, but just like those videos on youtube when revved up, but a little lower growl! so Perfect!

Okay fuel/hp guys. I am running in all safe levels with AFR. (max 14.7) with the WOT at way rich 9.0. (we will set this at the dyno on monday.) Right now, with the seat of my pants driving it feels like my ej20 Turbo motor at about 10lbs of boost. So i estimate around 220 hp at the wheels.

My question is for the fuel/hp dyno guys, how much more hp will i gain when i get this 9.0 AFR richness out. It feels great now, but that is a little rich for a N/A engine at WOT. I was thinking about 12.5/13 at WOT, does this sound right? OF course my dyno guy will tell me monday, just curious now...

[charliew]

Are you using a knock retard on the link? The leaner it gets the more power it will make but the hotter the combustion will be. Which means it's more susceptable to knock on a really hot day. What fuel will you have it tuned to? A good tuner will listen with a device to detect knock while he is tuning. Just getting bad gas can be a serious threat with close to the optimum (lean) afr, turbos are way more critical but keep in mind the fuel you will have available. A stock ej20 turbo with 14 psi is rated at 227 at the crank not the wheels. ej20 wrx is about 180 at the wheels at best stock. A 300 hp 2.5 sti 17psi stock makes about 240-260 at the wheels. A jdm ej20 turbo motor had 9:1 compression where the ej20 US wrx has around 8:1 so the jdm could make more power but the same boost of 14psi is real tricky on US gas. None of this will apply to your motor though as it's not jdm. Be sure the tuner knows you want it safe on the gas you expect to find easily. Actually the timing tuning probably will help as much as the afr tuning. The only way to push the limits for the most power is to use a knock retard ecu though.

You can get use to the clutch.

[budman5201]

Are you using a knock retard on the link? The leaner it gets the more power it will make but the hotter the combustion will be. Which means it's more susceptable to knock on a really hot day. What fuel will you have it tuned to? A good tuner will listen with a device to detect knock while he is tuning. Just getting bad gas can be a serious threat with close to the optimum (lean) afr, turbos are way more critical but keep in mind the fuel you will have available. A stock ej20 turbo with 14 psi is rated at 227 at the crank not the wheels. ej20 wrx is about 180 at the wheels at best stock. A 300 hp 2.5 sti 17psi stock makes about 240-260 at the wheels. A jdm ej20 turbo motor had 9:1 compression where the ej20 US wrx has around 8:1 so the jdm could make more power but the same boost of 14psi is real tricky on US gas. None of this will apply to your motor though as it's not jdm. Be sure the tuner knows you want it safe on the gas you expect to find easily. Actually the timing tuning probably will help as much as the afr tuning. The only way to push the limits for the most power is to use a knock retard ecu though.

You can get use to the clutch.

The link extreme has dual inputs for knock and my motor has that dual knock sensors also. It's kinda cool you can monitor the level of knock while its being dynoed on a pop up window and adjust accordingly if needed. I just haven't gotten into that till Monday at the dyno.

[charliew]

You can probably also set the level of noise it will trigger on then that should be great.

[Andyrew]

I wouldnt actually tune over 12.5 for WOT...11.5-12.5 is about right, turbo motors like closer to 11.5.

Between 9.0 to 12.5? your probably going to gain another 20-30hp I would think.

Oh and I agree on a full surface clutch.. A strong pressure plate? Yes, Puck clutch? Not on the street, Especially for a v6, just NOT needed in that situation.

[partwerks]

I'm definitely glad I converted mine over to the EJ20. Nice smooth running engine and gives it whole different personality. Nice when the turbo spools up and the way it pushes it down the road, plus normal oil changes and filters from Wally World, no valve adjustments, under dash heater and 33 mpg.
I think it may even be faster than that 3.6 converion I had.
I gave like $2,300.00 for the engine with all the accessories with 30,000 miles on it from WRX-TX and Sebastian has exceptional service after the sale.

Case closed!

LK

[DBCooper]

I'm definitely glad I converted mine over to the EJ20. Nice smooth running engine and gives it whole different personality. Nice when the turbo spools up and the way it pushes it down the road, plus normal oil changes and filters from Wally World, no valve adjustments, under dash heater and 33 mpg.
I think it may even be faster than that 3.6 converion I had.
I gave like $2,300.00 for the engine with all the accessories with 30,000 miles on it from WRX-TX and this person has exceptional service after the sale.

Case closed!

LK

Ha, I've got you beat! Mine's a Craig's List engine, $600 complete including A/C. That's less than the cost of ONE rebuilt Type 4 2.0 head! Probably last longer too, and I THRASH that thing.

[fat73]

I'm definitely glad I converted mine over to the EJ20. Nice smooth running engine and gives it whole different personality. Nice when the turbo spools up and the way it pushes it down the road, plus normal oil changes and filters from Wally World, no valve adjustments, under dash heater and 33 mpg.
I think it may even be faster than that 3.6 converion I had.
I gave like $2,300.00 for the engine with all the accessories with 30,000 miles on it from WRX-TX and Sebastian has exceptional service after the sale.

Case closed!

LK

Same here for the EJ20. I paid a little more for my 2003 EJ20 with all the stuff too and about the same mileage. I have about 25k on my conversion with 0 problems. I wouldn't mind doing the Subaru 6 either but the car is just a hot rod with the EJ20.

Ed

[budman5201]

[/quote]
Same here for the EJ20. I paid a little more for my 2003 EJ20 with all the stuff too and about the same mileage. I have about 25k on my conversion with 0 problems. I wouldn't mind doing the Subaru 6 either but the car is just a hot rod with the EJ20.

Ed
[/quote]

You know the subaru 6 EZ30R will bolt right into your renegade mount with no mods right? Thats what i am using. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[fat73]

[quote name='budman5201' date='Jun 20 2010, 04:50 PM' post='1333142']
[/quote]
Same here for the EJ20. I paid a little more for my 2003 EJ20 with all the stuff too and about the same mileage. I have about 25k on my conversion with 0 problems. I wouldn't mind doing the Subaru 6 either but the car is just a hot rod with the EJ20.

Ed
[/quote]

You know the subaru 6 EZ30R will bolt right into your renegade mount with no mods right? Thats what i am using. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)
[/quote]
I wondered about that. It looked like the motor mounts were identical.
Ed

[budman5201]

Map is 90 % there! AFR is right on the money, except for a few more load points that will be set at the dyno in 10 hours!! Excited to see the max HP of this baby. I bet it only comes in about 215/220 at the wheels. We will see....

Right now, smooth as silk driving (except for my puck clutch! taking off in first gear (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) )

[budman5201]

6 + hours at the dyno, Had to cut it short. $$$$

If we only had more time, we could of played a little more and got some more out of it....


So far we got 206.2 HP and 175.6 Lbs Torque AT the WHEELS!!


This is also with the restrictive 2006 Porsche 2.7 Boxster stock Muffler. Most of the dyno time took tracing down a misfire problem which turned out to be 2 injector plugs that were not fully grabbing the contacts when you plugged them in. VERY frustrating and $$ consuming.


DYNO SHEET ATTACHED TO THIS POST. (look below)

[budman5201]

Are you using a knock retard on the link? The leaner it gets the more power it will make but the hotter the combustion will be. Which means it's more susceptable to knock on a really hot day. What fuel will you have it tuned to? A good tuner will listen with a device to detect knock while he is tuning. Just getting bad gas can be a serious threat with close to the optimum (lean) afr, turbos are way more critical but keep in mind the fuel you will have available. A stock ej20 turbo with 14 psi is rated at 227 at the crank not the wheels. ej20 wrx is about 180 at the wheels at best stock. A 300 hp 2.5 sti 17psi stock makes about 240-260 at the wheels. A jdm ej20 turbo motor had 9:1 compression where the ej20 US wrx has around 8:1 so the jdm could make more power but the same boost of 14psi is real tricky on US gas. None of this will apply to your motor though as it's not jdm. Be sure the tuner knows you want it safe on the gas you expect to find easily. Actually the timing tuning probably will help as much as the afr tuning. The only way to push the limits for the most power is to use a knock retard ecu though.

You can get use to the clutch.

so....better than a ej20 wrx. Nice!