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> $&%&*% carb linkage, does it ever stop needing?
DBCooper
post Apr 14 2010, 12:11 PM
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Look, spend a few minutes with it and figure the CB hex linkage out. It's been used by thousands of people for decades and decades and is NOT that complicated! And it works just fine, tens of thousands of miles before you'll ever touch it again.

If you want to try a bell crank type look on the VW sites for CSP (Custom and Speed Parts) which is a German aftermarket import. I don't know if they have a T4 version, but the T1 guys swear by them.
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biosurfer1
post Apr 14 2010, 12:35 PM
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I have spent HOURS with the hex linkage. I know exactly how it's supposed to work but for some reason, mine doesn't. I get everything sync'd perfectly with linkage disconnected and once I hook it up, everything is out of whack again. I try the smallest adjustment and it swings the other way out of sync.

Thousands and thousands of people used lead based paint for decades and decades...doesn't mean you would/should use it today. If there is something better out there, why wouldn't I use it instead?

Bellcrank it is
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McMark
post Apr 14 2010, 01:32 PM
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QUOTE
figure the CB hex linkage out. It's been used by thousands of people for decades and decades and is NOT that complicated! And it works just fine,


It works just fine. As in just barely. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
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tat2dphreak
post Apr 14 2010, 01:35 PM
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QUOTE
It works just fine. As in just barely.

kinda the way I feel too... when it's working it's fine, it just seems to need tweaking from time to time, which is annoying as piss.

I've dated women that were less needy.
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DBCooper
post Apr 14 2010, 03:11 PM
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QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Apr 14 2010, 11:35 AM) *

I've dated women that were less needy.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Linkages are cheaper, at least!

.
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Chris Hamilton
post Apr 14 2010, 06:44 PM
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QUOTE(Philip W. @ Apr 14 2010, 07:52 AM) *

chris-
I know you really hate the FI ?!?!?
I have had my share of carb problems too- 69 austin healy with dual webbers(back in h.s.-25 yrs ago+) i date myself. - but after struggling to return my 75 2.0 to good function f.i., i am ready to try the carbs!!!!
too.- i think it is the old ECU and vaccuum that cause most problems- the injectors etc are not the culprit, - but each to his own i guess!


Me?

I don't hate EFI, I just hate L-Jet and D-Jet. You couldn't convince me to take the EFI off of my 94" Honda D16Z6 engine. But hey that's what 30 years of technology does for ya. If I had the money my 914 would have ITBs and a Haltech ECU instead of Dellortos.
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Mark Henry
post Apr 14 2010, 07:04 PM
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I'd tool up and make a HQ center pull linkage, but the joints I use are $13 each and I need 6 so right away they are over $78 in just joints.
I didn't worry about the cost as I only built linkages for complete engine jobs.
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Jake Raby
post Apr 14 2010, 08:22 PM
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QUOTE(bandjoey @ Apr 14 2010, 10:28 AM) *

If it's that good, shoot a quick DVD of the install, and include that and then sell the linkage with a No Support clause in the legal paper we have to sign before shipping. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


If it were only that easy....

Guess what happens when something is sold with a lack of support or disclaimers?? The support is still required, BUT the purchaser is forced to ask other people that generally know less than he does and then things are really fucked up. Its impossible to sell components that defy convention without support, otherwise the questions end up here and then the whining begins and I am forced to go tell someone to insert another tampon, take a Midol and figure the damn thing out themselves.. Then a pissing match begins because a couple of people had an issue and it didn't work PERFECTLY out of the box.

When something is expensive and well refined it is expected to work better than anything else, but something like this component system is heavily dependent upon installation and initial synchronization. I'd much rather not sale something as to have issues with something that is sold, luckily the money aspect of what makes this place tick isn't my primary concern.


QUOTE
If this isn't going to happen Jake, what's the alternative to hex bar that works and is easy for us nubes to adjust? Thanks for the help and info. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Nothing is easy. Don't fool yourself into thinking it will be, common sense is the biggest requirement.
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tat2dphreak
post Apr 14 2010, 08:54 PM
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got down to the real root of the issue... the treads that keep that bar in place were boogered up and letting the nut loosen up... I tightened it up, synced everything, then went to double check and that nut was loose again... this time I tried wiggling it, and within a little bit it backed off just enough to let the bar move... I'll drill and re-tap that tomorrow.
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McMark
post Apr 14 2010, 09:15 PM
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Glad you found something wrong. It's nice to have something to fix, versus being stuck in troubleshooting hell. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Apr 14 2010, 09:28 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Apr 14 2010, 09:04 PM) *

I'd tool up and make a HQ center pull linkage, but the joints I use are $13 each and I need 6 so right away they are over $78 in just joints.
I didn't worry about the cost as I only built linkages for complete engine jobs.


Isnt $13 per joint kinda high (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) Perhaps smoking some cheaper weed may lower the price? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
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McMark
post Apr 14 2010, 09:46 PM
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Check out this classic thread.
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tod914
post Apr 14 2010, 09:52 PM
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That's $13 Canadian Mike.
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neil30076
post Apr 14 2010, 10:46 PM
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QUOTE(yeahmag @ Apr 13 2010, 09:04 AM) *

...and an LM-1 permanently mounted doesn't hurt either!

What he said, I occasionally hook up my LM-1; plus some locktite on the screws helps - 3 years on my crossbar x 2 40IDF's and never needed to re adjust -
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tat2dphreak
post Apr 15 2010, 08:44 AM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Apr 14 2010, 10:46 PM) *

Check out this classic thread.



I remember that. and we did modify this linkage some to try and get the geometry correct.... for example we drilled new holes in the base plates to lower the bar for a much more squared geometry. we also used heavier duty drop links, and put nylock nuts on the back side of the drop links.

the other issues up til now I really think were more compensating for the fact my carbs are getting worn out.
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Mark Henry
post Apr 15 2010, 10:51 AM
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QUOTE(tod914 @ Apr 14 2010, 11:52 PM) *

That's $13 Canadian Mike.


Yep so that makes it what $15 USD....don't laugh... soon it will be true.

Todays rate $1 USD = $1.00190 Canadian dollars.
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Mark Henry
post Apr 15 2010, 10:55 AM
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QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Apr 15 2010, 10:44 AM) *


the other issues up til now I really think were more compensating for the fact my carbs are getting worn out.


And what wore them out???
The hex bar linkage.
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tat2dphreak
post Apr 15 2010, 11:23 AM
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And what wore them out???

well, that plus the 20+ years since these were made (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Mark Henry
post Apr 15 2010, 11:36 AM
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QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Apr 15 2010, 01:23 PM) *

QUOTE
And what wore them out???

well, that plus the 20+ years since these were made (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)


My bus engine is in its 3rd car now, it has been in service 7-8 month/yr for the last 19yrs, I built it in 91.

Weber DCNF's with Berg linkage with the correct linkage geometry, shaft's are as tight as the day I got them.

Hex bars have incorrect geometry and the trust loads prematurely wear out the shafts.
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tat2dphreak
post Apr 19 2010, 10:27 AM
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QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Apr 14 2010, 09:54 PM) *

got down to the real root of the issue... the treads that keep that bar in place were boogered up and letting the nut loosen up... I tightened it up, synced everything, then went to double check and that nut was loose again... this time I tried wiggling it, and within a little bit it backed off just enough to let the bar move... I'll drill and re-tap that tomorrow.


we re-tapped one side, and actually used a helicoil on the other side to make the threads good.

if the troubles continue I might bite the bullet on the triad linkage or find a good bell-housing linkage....
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