15",16",17" or ??? for auto-x rims/tires?????, wanna be "close" to competitive in QM Options

[Mueller]

Since I don't want to be the laughing stock in the class I'll be placed in (QM I believe, Street Modified)

I figure I will have to step up to the plate and get a second set of rims and tires for auto-x (time trialing sooner or later...okay, much later)

car has stock fenders, I do not want to add flares, but I am open to the idea of rolling the fenders or pulling/bumping them out slightly

Current rims are 16x7 under stock fenders running 205/45/16's
(40mm offset rims)

[ninefourteener]

There was a thread not too long ago about these guys. I actually called them and talked to them because I want a set of theur 17s so bad I can taste it.

If you already knew... then disregard.. but I'm sure they do both a 4 and 5 lug in the size you need. No fender adjustments necessary.

http://www.revousa.com/revolution.htm

[Mueller]

thanks....too heavy and expensive for me !!!!

I have a different bolt pattern than most 914's (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

mine is 4x100 so my choice of rims/brands is much, much better (IMG:style_emoticons/default/MDB2.gif)

my biggest concern is tire size availability...it seems 15" are slowly running out of sizes unless you stay with the 205/50-15

[ninefourteener]

thanks....too heavy and expensive for me !!!!

I have a different bolt pattern than most 914's (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

For me..... I could care less about weight... Personally, I think they look bad ass.

But.... the cost is a huge issue..... close to 2G's with tires on them... OUCH.

4X100 pattern?? How did you do that? Did you have the hubs drilled?? Or did you buy adaptors??

Hell.... if it's cost effective.. I could do the same thing.. and get a set of 17 inch rims online WITH tires on them for under 1G.

Got pics??

[anthony]

205-50-15 sounds good. Don't people usually go with the smaller rims/tires for AutoX.

[Mueller]

I re-drilled and studded the rotors/hubs myself......I would not recommend it at all....sure cheaper rims, but there are a few issues that are going to end up costing me more money:

the thru holes in the rear rotor are too close for comfort to the large center hole of the rotor. I'm sure it's okay for light street use, but I am not going to take any chances....custom aluminum hats along with Wilwood rotors now have to be purchased. (more money)

for the front, if the rotor gets damaged, I'll have to re-drill another rotor/hub assembly.....sooner or later, the rotor will have to be replaced due to normal use....so, for the front, it too is getting Wilwood aluminum hats and rotors (more money)

not only is the money an issue, I'm pretty much f'd if I am at an event and need to replace something related to my wheels or brakes....the chances of another person having what I need to borrow or buy in order to finish up the days event is slim-to-none

I normally listen to Brad, this time I decided to ignore him and it's costing me both time and money (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[eeyore]

Scroll down to the Blast-C at
http://edgeracing.com/product/wheel/?manuf...10ed81c64f927f6

At one point they advertised in GRM a set of Blasts, + Falken Azenis for under $600.

I was severely considering going to 4x100 hubs for these wheels, but the center-hole closeness you mentioned made me rethink that approach.

[SirAndy]

wanna be "close" to competitive in QM

tires/rims won't help much, try SLIMFAST ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Andy

[ninefourteener]

If the 4X100 pattern is too close to the center hole...... isn't there another common 4-lug pattern??

I thought there was a 4X114 or something like that.

Would that make enough difference??

[Mueller]

hey Andy: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

what is sad, is that I am doing that as well....I like thier Cappuccino Delight......best served ice cold (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

another few weeks and I'll be lean, mean auto-x'n machine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/MDB2.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

Running in Q-mod, you are gonna have an immensely tough time being anywhere even near competitive. QM has cars like "Cujo" in it--which is either a 964 or 993 platform with a 3.6 or 3.8 liter motor and boost adjustable up well over 1.0 bar. The car is not just fast, it's "holy fucking shit!" fast. The only hope you could ever have is on the tiniest and tightest of autoX courses. And even then, if there's any kind of straight you will be dog meat. (Pun not intended.)

I believe that the other QM cars, while not as monstrous as Cujo, are still going to be able to apply the HP hammer to your head and walk all over you.


If you want to be competitive, then--
Get the smallest-diameter class-legal wheels that you can fit over your brakes. If 15s are not required, then run 14s at the largest--13s if you can make them fit somehow. 7" wide, obviously. Run cantilever slicks, and make whatever fender mods are needed to run them.

Slicks are made in a variety of sizes. I doubt you'll have the same kind of problems finding slicks for small wheels as you will in finding decent street rubber for small wide wheels.

But pretty much, you're SOL. My real answer is run whatever wheels and tires you want, and to hell with the results. You'll place where you place, and it will be fun. If you need to be "competitive", run the C2 in the stock classes. And put in a whole lot of seat time.

--DD

[TimMartin]

Am i missing something? Class Qm is not a 914 class...

Other than that, it sounds like you are doing something very similar to myself. I'm sticking with stock fenders but am looking for a good wheel/tire combo that works in my class.

For better or worse i'm currently in super-production (Fx) -- i'd like to be demoted to production (Fm) but the rules for tires/wheels are the same eithe rway. Which means i can either run .25" track increase with 7" wheels, OR i can run .5" track increase with 6" wheels.

I'm choosing the first option, but i haven't found a tire/wheel combo in my price range that fits under the fenders on a stock 4-bolt setup. Keeping in mind i also have to stick with 15" of course.

[nine14cats]

Hi Mike,

I'll chime in with what I've experienced with my 914 as it migrated from stock fenders to HPH flares...and I've used the Dot-R 205's/225's on 15x6's/7's and the cantilever slicks on 15x7 inch cookies.

The slicks won't fit under a stock body car without pulling the fenders out a little. John Rogers may know better than I, but I easily made the 205's work but had to pull the rear fenders out to fit 225's.

I put HPH f/g flares and run the slicks...

Non Hoosier Dot-R's are the best bang for the buck that fit on 15x7's if you don't want to roll the fenders. Hoosier Dot-R's are more expensive than my 23x9x15 canti slicks. My slicks wear longer than Hoosier Dot-R's and about the same as the Kumho's.

If you can fit the slicks, they are a very inexpensive (relative) way to be fast.

Cookies were $50 a rim from a wrecking yard. Hoosier/Goodyear 23x9x15 canti's are ~$185 each.

As far as being competitive at an auto-x, if your 914 is indeed in QM, you'll have horsepower and I think you can be very competitive, using the PCA GGR/LPR/Zone 7 series as an example.

In these regions several cars both 911 and 914 with twin turbos, stock 2.0 liter engings and 914-6's battle for top time of day.

My vote is put the widest/lowest profile tire you can get under the fenders with the mods you are most comfortable with and go for it! With a 914, you will be competitive...

Bill P.

[nine14cats]

Tim makes a good point. I believe that the modified categories for aircooled 914's would be FM/KM/LM/GM......I ran GM last year with my 914-6 2.7 and moved to Y (unlimited air-cooled up to 2.75 liters) when I put the car on a diet.

In any event, if you've got a 914, you can be very competitive at auto-x!

[Mueller]

the turbo put's me into Qm.........unless I read the rules wrong...wouldn't be the first time......... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[campbellcj]

I think two big factors to consider are (a) do you have stock gears? and (b) what kind of gearing do you need for the typical course layouts you will encounter?

Obviously you want to go as wide & sticky as allowed by your car's body and the rulebook. But going shorter/taller will have a significant gearing effect. The "gears" spreadsheet is very useful to play around with speed-in-gear and shiftpoint scenarios.