Ball Joint Nut Removal Options

[dralf]

Help,
I am still taking my front end apart and have stumbled onto ball joint nuts that refuse to budge.
I have soaked them in penetrating oil and have been attacking them with the socket type tool sold by Pelican Parts and a 5 foot cheater bar. No luck !
I am actually starting to deform the prongs or teeth that interlock between the tool and the nut.

I am reluctant to use a torch for there is so much grease and oil in that area that I will have a 3 alarm blaze...my only thought is to some how cut or split the nut since I will be replacing the ball joints anyway (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

I started that mode of attack last night both with a drill and a hand hacksaw but I was not making nuch progess, the nut must be harder than my tools.

Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Eric_Shea]

You have the P210 tool it sounds like. There's a couple of things I'd do at this point:

1. Ditch the cheater bar and find someone with an air wrench. You need solid downward pressure on that nut while the wrench does the work. Take them up to a local garage and they should be able to spin them off in a couple seconds.

2. Use heat. You mentioned that you'll be getting new ball joints. That's the only reason I wouldn't use heat... to attempt to preserve the boot on the ball joint. Seeing how that's not an issue, use heat and lots of it. Everyone here knows that my favorite tool is the MAP torch. Even if you heat the crap out of them "before" to take them to the local garage the affect will still be there. The heat will break the bonds between the metals. You're not going to have a huge fire at this point... just a little stinky one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[joea9146]

I used a Dremel with the cutoff wheel cut 2 or 3 slots into the nut then
chisle and hammer off the nut. Just be careful not to cut into the A arm when cutting
near the top of the nut. Get the fiber enforced cutoff wheels for the dremel they
are more expensive but last longer and will cut right through the nut (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[ArtechnikA]

make sure you're using -good- penetrating oil. WD-40 isn't penetrating oil. use PB-Blaster or Kroil.

make sure you've removed the cotter pin and the keepers. (i'm not trying to insult your intelligence, just cover all the bases ...)

use a solid punch and a big hammer to hit the nut in the loosen direction. it's how i got mine off. since you seem to have determined they're toast anyway, it's not like you'd be risking damaging them... the professional guys usually use a punch or dull chisel implement in an air hammer to spin them off.

[John2kx]

Had similar problems getting mine off and used a 2ft. pipe wrench after soaking with PB blaster. Worked like a champ and nuts were reuseable.

John

[rhodyguy]

even the non-pros use a air chisel. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

kevin

[SpecialK]

Yep, pipe wrench and 18" of 1" black pipe (cheater)....One nut came right off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ...the other wasn't quite so willing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowtorch.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) ...but it finally saw it my way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[dralf]

Thanks for all the hints and advice..
I am borrowing the biggest pipe wrench my work place has and tomorrow after 1/2 a bottle of Gin I will stagger out to the garage and have it out with those two nuts !! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)