 Subaru Engine w/Boxster transaxle, Perfect fix for 914??? |
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| precisionchassis |
 Sep 5 2010, 10:55 PM
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#81
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 99 Joined: 26-July 10 From: Gilbert, AZ Member No.: 11,979 Region Association: Southwest Region  |
oh, and yes, I am keeping very detailed notes on everything. I'm not building this with the intentions of making a "one-off". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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| ottox914 |
Sep 6 2010, 06:54 AM
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#82
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The glory that once was. Group: Members Posts: 1,302 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Mahtomedi, MN Member No.: 1,438 Region Association: Upper MidWest  |
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 5 2010, 06:44 AM)  I am awed by this build. One thing that I notice, though, is that your pipes are really close to the gear box. Typically this can led to premature wear and failure. Is this something that you already considered and have provided for? I was noticing the same thing- maybe if/when this system proves itself durable they could be jet hot coated. Kind of a shame to hide that nice SS work, but I coated the 914T exhaust and it was a good thing for temp control under the car. |
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| precisionchassis |
Sep 9 2010, 05:37 PM
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#83
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Member Group: Members Posts: 99 Joined: 26-July 10 From: Gilbert, AZ Member No.: 11,979 Region Association: Southwest Region |
The wiring harness has been reduced to only what is needed to make the engine run.... hopefully.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1284075463.1.jpg) And here's what wasn't used... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1284075464.2.jpg) |
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| precisionchassis |
Sep 14 2010, 02:39 AM
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#84
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Member Group: Members Posts: 99 Joined: 26-July 10 From: Gilbert, AZ Member No.: 11,979 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I got the first round of primer sprayed on the prototype fiberglass roof scoop. Once I'm happy with the shape and finish, I'll make a mold off of this part. The plan is to make the scoop removable so I can get to the rear trunk and remove the fiberglass hard top to get to the top of the engine. Also, now that most of the rear window will be blocked, I will probably just fill it in and mount a rear facing camera somewhere and an LCD display where the rear view mirror would go.
I know the shape of the scoop may not be the most attractive, but it will definetly serve it's purpose of getting a lot of cool air to the intercooler which will be in the rear trunk and will vent down over the transaxle and through the license plate are in the rear bumper. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1284453579.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1284453579.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1284453580.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1284453580.4.jpg) |
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| jimkelly |
Sep 14 2010, 06:33 AM
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#85
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Delaware USA Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
thanks for keepin the pics coming : )
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| Britain Smith |
Sep 14 2010, 10:39 AM
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#86
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Nano Member Group: Members Posts: 2,354 Joined: 27-February 03 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 364 |
Looks cool. Did you mold the whole thing or adapt it from something else? Any pictures of the process as you went?
-Britain |
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| precisionchassis |
Sep 14 2010, 01:22 PM
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#87
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Member Group: Members Posts: 99 Joined: 26-July 10 From: Gilbert, AZ Member No.: 11,979 Region Association: Southwest Region |
QUOTE(Britain Smith @ Sep 14 2010, 09:39 AM) Looks cool. Did you mold the whole thing or adapt it from something else? Any pictures of the process as you went? -Britain I made the whole thing from scratch. Cut and glued foam to the car, sculpted the foam in the shape I wanted, covered the body with mold release in the flange areas, fiberglassed over the foam, removed everything from the car and scraped the foam out. Then sanded the fiberglass, body worked it, and sprayed it with a primer filler. I'll probably block it one more time, touch up any low spots, primer it again, then final sand it before I make the mold. It's a lot of work for sure. I'll have about 35 hours into the prototype part. |
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| Britain Smith |
Sep 14 2010, 03:32 PM
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#88
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Nano Member Group: Members Posts: 2,354 Joined: 27-February 03 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 364 |
Yep, been there, done that. It looks good though.
-Britain |
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| bryanc |
Oct 9 2010, 11:13 AM
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#89
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Member Group: Members Posts: 321 Joined: 9-August 04 From: San Antonio, Tx Member No.: 2,495 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Any updates??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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| precisionchassis |
Nov 4 2010, 01:27 PM
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#90
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Member Group: Members Posts: 99 Joined: 26-July 10 From: Gilbert, AZ Member No.: 11,979 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Quick update...
The plan was to finish the intercooler plumbing before doing the cage to make things easier... but I couldn't help myself. The cage isn't done yet (still have harness bars to add and final welding) but it's pretty close. I'll throw up some better cage pictures once everything is completely finished... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898844.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898844.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898844.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898844.4.jpg) I made a custom intercooler for the trunk and started the "duct-work" to direct the hot air out the rear bumper. The last shot shows the bottom of the duct open. This will be closed off to force the air out behind the car rather than randomly under the car. I'm just waiting to pull the engine/tranny to finish everything off. You can see the turbo dumps directly into the intercooler on the driver's side, then shoots off into the engine bay on the passenger side. The plumbing will be VERY short and direct. I was going to use Wiggins clamps, but then reminded myself that this is supposed to be a "budget build" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) The intercooler core measures 18" x 12" x 4.5" with 2.75" inlet/outlets (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898845.5.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898845.6.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898845.7.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898845.8.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898845.9.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898845.10.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1288898845.11.jpg) |
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| Boxsterund914 |
Nov 10 2010, 03:34 PM
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#91
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 7 Joined: 24-July 06 From: S Florida Member No.: 6,501 |
Are those rear flares something you made? If not, who did you source them from?
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| precisionchassis |
Nov 10 2010, 03:49 PM
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#92
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Member Group: Members Posts: 99 Joined: 26-July 10 From: Gilbert, AZ Member No.: 11,979 Region Association: Southwest Region |
A.I.R. makes the flares, but I have to warn you... if you are used to the way the 914 and air cooled 911 flares are added, you will be amazed at how much more work it takes to do flares on the rear of a Boxster. It involved cutting the quarter panels (obviously) but you also have to reconstruct the inner wheel-well a bit because it will no longer extend all the way out to the flare, and you will be left with a large gap that would allow the inner quarter panel to fill up with road debris, water, or whatever. Also, to date, A.I.R. doesn't sell a flared rear bumper, so you have to bond the flare to both the quarter panel, and rear bumper, then cut the flare in two along the stock body line, then fiberglass new "flanges" on both the bumper piece, and quarter panel piece. In short, if you aren't comfortable with cutting, welding, sheetmetal fabrication, body work, and fiberglass work, you will have to pay the big $$$ to have it done by a shop.
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| Hontec |
Nov 10 2010, 04:04 PM
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#93
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I see things..... Group: Members Posts: 261 Joined: 23-September 10 From: Netherlands Member No.: 12,210 Region Association: Europe |
Beautiful work!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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| precisionchassis |
Nov 13 2010, 07:21 PM
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#94
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Member Group: Members Posts: 99 Joined: 26-July 10 From: Gilbert, AZ Member No.: 11,979 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Intercooler plumbing finished. That's it. Only one short section of tube on the cold side. The hot side is just a 2"-2.75" coupler from the turbo to the intercooler so no plumbing there. The engine and transmission are now out so I can do all of the engine service work (TGV delete, gaskets, injectors, fuel rails, leak-down test blah... blah...) and install the flywheel. The next time the engine goes in the chassis will be to try and start it. Time to finish the cage, do the body work, and paint the thing...
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1289697671.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1289697672.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1289697672.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1289697672.4.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1289697672.5.jpg) |
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| precisionchassis |
Dec 2 2010, 08:01 PM
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#95
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Member Group: Members Posts: 99 Joined: 26-July 10 From: Gilbert, AZ Member No.: 11,979 Region Association: Southwest Region |
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| Andyrew |
Dec 2 2010, 10:43 PM
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#96
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California 
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Air jacks are so cool!
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| geniusanthony |
Dec 3 2010, 01:06 AM
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#97
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Its a brand new "Chrome-sicle" Group: Members Posts: 517 Joined: 12-December 05 From: Alexandria,VA Member No.: 5,266 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I think your doing a great job on this build. The cage work looks pretty amazing, one of the touches I like are the gussets on the door bars. What is the proper name for those chamfered holes in the gussets called and what tool do you make them with? Regarding the air duct, It looks like the area across the rear window gets much larger there. Of note is the cross section at the base of the rear window. If you wanted the regain some of your rear window use, what do you think would happen if you where to narrow that section at the window while maintaining the profile? Would not the velocity of the air remain higher and that being what cools the intercooler aid in heat dissipation?
Just some thoughts I had while reading, great project though, can't wait to see it come together. |
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| precisionchassis |
Dec 14 2010, 07:01 PM
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#98
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Member Group: Members Posts: 99 Joined: 26-July 10 From: Gilbert, AZ Member No.: 11,979 Region Association: Southwest Region |
So one of the things I have been dreading ever since I decided to run the wide body GT2 front end is the radiator duct situation. There are two ways to go about it, the expensive way, and the time consuming way. I chose the latter for two reasons. The first reason is the cost of converting the radiators and related duct work to the Turbo/GT2 spec. Basically, that would mean all three turbo 996 radiators, GT2 air ducts for all 3 radiators, radiator mounting brackets for all 3 radiators, and matching cooling lines along with other misc. hardware. Yeah, it's expensive... like a few thousand dollars. Not in the budget for this car. The other reason I decided to stick with the stock Boxster radiators is I want to be able to test the cooling capabilities of the stock Boxster cooling system with the extra horsepower and potential heat that the turbo motor might create. So here is what I came up with...
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1292374891.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1292374891.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1292374891.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1292374891.4.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1292374891.5.jpg) The side radiators are in the stock location using the stock mounting brackets. The center radiator mounts upside down using a slightly modified stock mounting bracket and the stock plastic duct. In stock configuration, the Boxster S and 996 radiator would vent down below the car through holes in the bottom of the bumper cover. Aerodynamically this is less than ideal which is why the GT3, RSR and GT2's vent up through a hole on the top of the bumper cover. What this means is I had to move the center radiator forward and angle it up to make room for some duct work that would direct the air up instead of down. |
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| precisionchassis |
Dec 30 2010, 03:46 AM
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#99
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Member Group: Members Posts: 99 Joined: 26-July 10 From: Gilbert, AZ Member No.: 11,979 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Plumbed the air-jacks and started on the electronic power steering conversion. Both are almost finished, just need to get a few more fittings.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1293702395.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1293702395.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i180.photobucket.com-11979-1293702395.3.jpg) |
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| Jeroen |
Dec 30 2010, 08:22 AM
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#100
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,887 Joined: 24-December 02 From: The Netherlands Member No.: 3 Region Association: Europe |
awesome fabwork (as usual)
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