The Pine-Sol carburetor cleaning thread, You can have clean carbs with that fresh pine scent! Options

[Mark Henry]

more pics of fresh pine carbs

[Mark Henry]

The diaphragms on the 40IDA disintegrated, at first I blamed the Pine-Sol, but taking the other carb apart dry I found they were trashed already . I also don't think they were OE weber anyways. Guess I need new carb kits.

Top is the diaphragm from the DCNF, it was left in Pine-Sol overnight and it's in great shape.

[Mark Henry]

Hard to believe these carbs have been in service for 18 years. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Kirmizi]

Well Done! I guess I know what I'll be doing this winter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Mike

[Mark Henry]

Being the cheap ass that I am...I think I figured out how to get an extra day out of the solution. This blower has a leak, I turned the regulator down to just a trickle and I have bubbles agian. Seems to be working and I wanted to drain the compressor anyways.

[zymurgist]

So, if PineSol works... I wonder how well Simple Green would work?

On the Ninja board where I hang out, they say that Simple Green will etch aluminum (so don't use it to clean wheels etc.)

[GS Guy]

So, if PineSol works... I wonder how well Simple Green would work?

On the Ninja board where I hang out, they say that Simple Green will etch aluminum (so don't use it to clean wheels etc.)

Great thread! Going to have to try this on a throttle body.

Now I'm wondering if a wheel cleaner will do a similar cleaning? I've been using Meguires all wheel cleaner on my chrome Caravan wheels for years with great results. It is the only thing that will clean off the black salt scum from winter use here in MD. Also cleans up the calipers pretty well from overspray. It has a funny smell that I just can place? Safe for all wheel finishes, so should be safe for bare aluminum. I might give it a try.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Jeff

[smontanaro]

So, you just dunk the entire carb? No disassembly? Or do you pull some parts (needles, etc)?

[Mark Henry]

So, you just dunk the entire carb? No disassembly? Or do you pull some parts (needles, etc)?

You can dunk the whole carb to get the heavy grime, but you have to take it apart.

I can not stress how important it is to rinse throughly with water till you see no soap.
Then you must totally blow out all traces of water.

[Mark Henry]

This is my rinse bucket, just clear water. I already had blasted it with water and then dunked the 40IDA body and top. You can get a good idea how much soap is still left on them.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[Mark Henry]

This shows how I filtered the Pine-Sol. A real good idea, not only to keep it clean, but as you can see catch any little parts you may have missed.

[Mark Henry]

Here is my second 40IDA, the bubbler trick worked, but I think not quite as well as the fresh Pine-Sol. Good enough for me and still better than any carb cleaner I've ever used before.
The amazing part is how well it works in all the nooks and crannies. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Mark Henry]

The wife just got me a big bottle of Pine-Sol. Little bottle $1 (dollar store) medium bottle was $4 and the big one was $12.
I'll have to do the math, but I think the little dollar store bottles is the cheapest.

I'm wondering if I should try to recharge the old stuff or just start with new?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[DBCooper]

You know those motorcycle guys were leaving the carbs in for DAYS, not hours. And they got really unbelievable results, if you remember the closeups in that thread. That might be the answer to your question, leave the carbs in new Pinesol until it loses it's oomph, which would be in a few days.

They also talked about the big jugs at the janitorial supply store for six bucks instead of nine. And the even cheaper generic... What's a gallon of Berryman's cost again? I think remember paying about $15 last time, but it lasts through a dozen carbs.

[smontanaro]

OK, who will be the first volunteer to leave their 40IDAs in Pine-Sol for a week? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Do you cover the container while the parts soak? That might help with its longevity.

[DBCooper]

OK, who will be the first volunteer to leave their 40IDAs in Pine-Sol for a week? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Do you cover the container while the parts soak? That might help with its longevity.

That's true, it doesn't seem to lose it's potency in the bottle under my bathroom sink.

[jmill]

That's true, it doesn't seem to lose it's potency in the bottle under my bathroom sink.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Thanks for the research on this one. I've got a set of triples that need cleaning bad. I'll go with the pine-sol now.

[underthetire]

I've got to do my dirtbike carb for the winter season soon, I think i'll try this in the ultrasonic cleaner. Thanks!

[76-914]

I wonder what the ph is when it's new?

[Mark Henry]

Just an up-date, the 42 DCNF`s are back in my bus and are working like a champ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

BUT

It does leave a film on brass parts for sure, most likely only a few microns thick, but it's enough to make my float valves leak like a SOB!

I didn't notice it right away so it's a huge fire hazzard!

I know it wasn't dirt as they both were leaking, 3/4 was leaking big time, 1/2 was leaking just a bit. No big deal as a couple minutes polishing with a rag and Q-tips cured the problem, but I just want peeps to be aware of this. Remove as much of the brass jets, etc as you can or you need to polish them after cleaning.

BTW it was DBCooper that first mentioned pinesol on this board and this is his original thread.... Castor oil might work as well, it did on me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=pinesol