cooling issues..., fine when driving, spikes when stopped. Options

[malaga_red75]

well, I think (fingers crossed) that the cooling system is finally working properly.

As budman mentioned, I did not have any return lines to the thermostat while it was closed. So today, I bought a T valve and some more lines and ran a return line from the heater output on top of the crossover pipe down to the thermostat where it Tee'd off to my expansion tank. Took it for a test drive and the temp stayed at or below 180 the entire time. When I came to a stop, it rested at 185, and thats only with one fan pulling right now (i broke the other one, idiot mistake). so THANKYOU budman for the answer. Thanks to Mike as well for coming down and helping me get the air out of my system.

Hopefully this will be it and I wont have to burp the system again.

-Peter

[Mike Bellis]

Awesome! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Now put that thing back together and drive it like you stole it.h

[budman5201]

SWEET! cool, anxious to see now where your temps stay at during idle and cruising around with both your fans working and that radiator. I bet your fine!

Once you are positive the system works perfect ( a few weeks worth), the thermostat with the holes isnt really needed. Mine is Stock Aftermarket with no holes in AZ. After 3 Subaru stock ones sticking during my various engine swaps, only cheap Autozone ones for me.

[malaga_red75]

so, as the ultimate test for my cooling system, I brought my car to school with me ( Chico) where the days temps are in the 90's and sometimes into tripple digits. I drove it yesterday and while driving the temp is about 178ish... and when I stop it goes to 190. So I think when I get my second fan in there it will drop to around 185.

-Peter

[Mike Bellis]

so, as the ultimate test for my cooling system, I brought my car to school with me ( Chico) where the days temps are in the 90's and sometimes into tripple digits. I drove it yesterday and while driving the temp is about 178ish... and when I stop it goes to 190. So I think when I get my second fan in there it will drop to around 185.

-Peter

Awesome! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[budman5201]

SWEET! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

[charliew]

I guess you also don't have the oil filter cooler/heater bypass lines on the na motor? subaru designed the suby to mainly be a snow car and the idea of the bypass was a lot of trouble to design but it is for more consistent cooling and heating year round. The ideal street car motor temp is to keep the oil and motor about 200 degrees, as quick as possible, that keeps the moisture boiled off the oil and keeps the oil at it's designed viscosity to get everywhere as fast as possible and to keep the motor parts at their correct tolerances to prevent cold start wear and tear. At 20 degrees oil gets real thick and slow so the bypass lines kept the warm coolant around the motor until it warmed up, and out of the radiator, including warming the oil filter.

The importance of bypass lines on subys has been discussed since subys first were put in other street cars. Outback my not use bypass lines on sandrails though.

[ArtechnikA]

I guess you also don't have the oil filter cooler/heater bypass lines on the na motor?

Donno about conversions...
My EJ25D had one, and our 3,0 six has one.
When used with a block heater in the winter, the oil comes up to temp in a flash. Nice.