Oil leak behind flywheel I can't find |
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Oil leak behind flywheel I can't find |
Jake Raby |
Nov 1 2010, 06:13 PM
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#21
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,398 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Sounds like a leaky galley plug or cam plug.. What oil are you using? 10/30w Castrol GTX Ouch.. Well maybe when it leaks out you'll do the required research to choose a proper oil for your vintage engine.. That GTX isn't doing your engine any favors at all, but if you had a modern car it would be just fine. |
Cap'n Krusty |
Nov 1 2010, 07:27 PM
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#22
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
you did read that the victor -reinz seal is not good per go westy? excerpt below: "Anyway, what we found was that the common seal that comes in ALL the gasket kits has two problems. The first is that they are too narrow (width), front to back. So, when you install them in a Waterboxer, you can put them in too far, not far enough, or catty-wompus (that's Randall's technical jargon for eccentrically mis-aligned). We found one seal that was the correct thickness, a Victor-Reinz part that was all orange, and sold separately--in it's own box and everything. Interestingly, it is NOT the same seal that is included in the Victor-Reinz full engine gasket set. Go figure. So we thought, viola! We don't have to buy the stupid expensive seal at VW. WRONG. What Randall correctly pointed out is that the OE VW seal comes designed with a considerably heavier spring. None of the other seals have a spring nearly as heavy. Kudos, Randall. What is even more interesting about this VW dealer only seal is that, A) It is all black and, It is made in Brazil (SABO brand). These two traits are typically what we refer in the industry as, well, CRAP. But, you can't argue with success, right? So, we bought every seal VW had in the United States. Starting about five engines ago, we have switched to the VW dealer only seal. We are keeping track of which engines have them with an extra "dot" next to the engine displacement stamp we put on each GoWesty engine. Let's see if the seal is worth it. If it turns out to be the fix, I may have a trip to Rio De Janeiro in my future... For now, if you need a flywheel seal for your waterboxer (029-105-245), we got them for $29.95 In fact, last I checked with VW, we got ALL of them! Click here to grab a new Rear Main Seal. Locals in the biz take anything Lucas says with a grain of salt and a healthy dose of skepticism. I'm jus' sayin'. The Cap'n |
realred914 |
Nov 2 2010, 09:41 AM
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#23
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Senior Member Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,086 Joined: 1-April 10 From: california Member No.: 11,541 Region Association: None |
you did read that the victor -reinz seal is not good per go westy? excerpt below: "Anyway, what we found was that the common seal that comes in ALL the gasket kits has two problems. The first is that they are too narrow (width), front to back. So, when you install them in a Waterboxer, you can put them in too far, not far enough, or catty-wompus (that's Randall's technical jargon for eccentrically mis-aligned). We found one seal that was the correct thickness, a Victor-Reinz part that was all orange, and sold separately--in it's own box and everything. Interestingly, it is NOT the same seal that is included in the Victor-Reinz full engine gasket set. Go figure. So we thought, viola! We don't have to buy the stupid expensive seal at VW. WRONG. What Randall correctly pointed out is that the OE VW seal comes designed with a considerably heavier spring. None of the other seals have a spring nearly as heavy. Kudos, Randall. What is even more interesting about this VW dealer only seal is that, A) It is all black and, It is made in Brazil (SABO brand). These two traits are typically what we refer in the industry as, well, CRAP. But, you can't argue with success, right? So, we bought every seal VW had in the United States. Starting about five engines ago, we have switched to the VW dealer only seal. We are keeping track of which engines have them with an extra "dot" next to the engine displacement stamp we put on each GoWesty engine. Let's see if the seal is worth it. If it turns out to be the fix, I may have a trip to Rio De Janeiro in my future... For now, if you need a flywheel seal for your waterboxer (029-105-245), we got them for $29.95 In fact, last I checked with VW, we got ALL of them! Click here to grab a new Rear Main Seal. Locals in the biz take anything Lucas says with a grain of salt and a healthy dose of skepticism. I'm jus' sayin'. The Cap'n me I figure it is worth a try for him if he has a leaky seal and has confirmed the seal surface on the crank is ok. if so try the other brand of seal. if his seal leaks he could also remove the spring and shorten it, that will help seal it up better, with a tighter spring, just wind the spring into itself to shorten it. but only if you confrimed it is the seal that leaks and the crank is good and not scored up. good luck |
tracer |
Nov 8 2010, 01:28 PM
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#24
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 26-July 04 From: El Dorado Hills, CA Member No.: 2,405 Region Association: Northern California |
I don't have the oil pressure gauge. But did remove the Castrol oil and replaced with Brad Penn 20/50 and leak is still there but much less. I am now believing that there maybe a small crack in the block and only comes out to play after I have driven for some time to really heat up the engine. Looks like I will be getting another engine. Thanks for all the help from everyone.
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realred914 |
Nov 9 2010, 10:18 AM
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#25
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Senior Member Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,086 Joined: 1-April 10 From: california Member No.: 11,541 Region Association: None |
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I don't have the oil pressure gauge. But did remove the Castrol oil and replaced with Brad Penn 20/50 and leak is still there but much less. I am now believing that there maybe a small crack in the block and only comes out to play after I have driven for some time to really heat up the engine. Looks like I will be getting another engine. Thanks for all the help from everyone. can youconfirm teh crack in teh case with the solvent/ powder method? or the UV glowing dye in the oil method? I'd hate to see the engine torn down if you really dont have a crack in the, confimration would make nme feel better about pulling the motor apart. why not put some of teh dye in the motor oil and run it a short bit to get it hot and see if you can detect the crack when you pull the motor? failing that try the solvent / powder to look for it. wonder where it is at????????????????? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
tracer |
Nov 10 2010, 07:41 AM
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#26
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 26-July 04 From: El Dorado Hills, CA Member No.: 2,405 Region Association: Northern California |
I will get the dye and take a look, does the local flaps carry the dye or is it more specialized?
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76-914 |
Nov 10 2010, 09:17 AM
Post
#27
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,634 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
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realred914 |
Nov 10 2010, 11:22 AM
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#28
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Senior Member Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,086 Joined: 1-April 10 From: california Member No.: 11,541 Region Association: None |
I will get the dye and take a look, does the local flaps carry the dye or is it more specialized? Got mine at high performance house in redwood city calif. 650 364-6234 talk to rich , super 914 store! they ship daily give them a try, tons of good 914 advice also, (rich races them, builds them, repairs them,, and has all the parts). |
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