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> turn signal help please, for the electically in-experienced..
MrHyde
post Nov 9 2010, 10:46 AM
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I've had some success....

I pluged that relay i had into the socket to " give'r a whirl "... hazard lights work... perfectly... all lights flashing in sync... the cliker going.. perfect... turn signal still no worky... making me thing it is just the relay now.. part of it working for the hazar lights and not the turn signal ? or maybe the turn signal switch..
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pcar916
post Nov 9 2010, 10:58 AM
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QUOTE(MrHyde @ Nov 9 2010, 08:46 AM) *

I've had some success....

I pluged that relay i had into the socket to " give'r a whirl "... hazard lights work... perfectly... all lights flashing in sync... the cliker going.. perfect... turn signal still no worky... making me thing it is just the relay now.. part of it working for the hazar lights and not the turn signal ? or maybe the turn signal switch..


Now you're on point. It could be the relay, but to eliminate the turn signal switch test it. I had the same exact problem recently on my car. There are two connectors at the base of the steering column.

I used the diagnostic sketch I posted above to make sure the turn signal switch was working properly. It wasn't. When taken apart, the contacts inside the switch were broken. However there are redundant contacts attached to grey wires that trigger the European feature! What's that you ask?

When you turn on the turn signals and the car is off, the turn signal bulbs will come on solid (no pulsing).

I took the connector (the one at the base of the steering column that you may not have noticed yet) apart, swapped the grey wires with the "real" signal wires and put the connector back together. I got my turn signals back but lost the trigger for the feature noted above. It won't satisfy the concours crowd (and shouldn't) but I can live with that.

Now I could have spent $50 on a new turn signal but this was more fun. You'll use your meter in continuity mode to use that sketch.
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pcar916
post Nov 9 2010, 11:07 AM
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Oh yes, the connector attached to your signal switch is worthy of a puzzle-guru. It's a masterpiece. I got a used scrap switch locally to figure it out before tackling mine.

Unless your switch tests bad, it's not something you want to do after a night of heavy partying. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
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MrHyde
post Nov 9 2010, 01:41 PM
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Well... I guess I'm going to have to get a hand from my wife and pull the seat out so I can see up in there better.. I'll have a look for this connector and see if I can get a reading on it..
Now, my multimeter doesnt have a continuity buzzer, but if what I've been reading serves... I can just set it on the lowers ohn settin... 200ohm i thinks.. and if I get SOMETHING... then its good.. right ?

EDIT:

Also.. does anyone know the size of the steering wheel hub nut ?? i dont think I have a metric socket that big, I'm going to have to do some shopping on friday.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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luskesq
post Nov 9 2010, 02:24 PM
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I used I believe a 1" or 1 1/8 deep socket which did the job
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pcar916
post Nov 9 2010, 03:33 PM
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QUOTE(MrHyde @ Nov 9 2010, 11:41 AM) *

I'll have a look for this connector and see if I can get a reading on it..
Now, my multimeter doesnt have a continuity buzzer... I can just set it on the lowers ohn settin...


That connectors are on the underside near your leg. The black wiring-harness cable connections just pull out from the steering wheel counterparts. It's easy to see if you have the lower dash-pad removed. I don't remember what it's like when the pad is there but it'd be above that.

You can put your ohmmeter on the highest setting. There aren't any sensitive components to hurt and you may need the juice. I just snapped a pic of it a minute ago.

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windforfun
post Nov 9 2010, 05:16 PM
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Don't forget that you can slide the seat all the way forward to remove it. You don't have to unbolt the seat frame from the floor.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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Spoke
post Nov 9 2010, 09:08 PM
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The schematics in the repair manuals are a bitch to read so I've taken the important parts of the 914 turn signal and re-drew them so one can easily follow the wiring. There are slight differences depending on the year of your 914.

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pcar916
post Nov 10 2010, 11:19 AM
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Simple is gooder than not... I like targeted system drawings. It's worth the trouble to learn how to read the factory drawings as well though.

Having them in the glove box allowed me to rewire my headlights (low beams only) into the unused fog light switch when a relay went bad in the middle of the night on a lonely country road. Would'a been toast without them since I'd never worked on that circuit and didn't know anything about it.
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MrHyde
post Nov 10 2010, 12:58 PM
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so if I read this correct.. now that i've unpluged the turn signal stalk and the wiper stalk wiring harness' from the bottom of the column.. I can run my multimeter ( on top pic from last page) 4 + 5 for the right and 5+6 for left... if that works... than the switch is working.... right ?
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jt914-6
post Nov 10 2010, 02:24 PM
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In Ron's drawing 4-5 is left....5-6 is right....Use tester on Ohm setting....touch tester leads together and see if meter goes to zero....if so, one lead to 5 and one to 4 with turn signal lever down for left signal...one lead on 5 one on 6 to check right signal with stalk up for right turn signal....key doesn't have to be on....If meter goes to zero on both tests....switch is good.....
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MrHyde
post Nov 10 2010, 02:39 PM
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oops.. got the right n left backwards... sorry
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pcar916
post Nov 11 2010, 09:01 AM
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JT is correct on the procedure... only difference could be that your meter may indicate a "1" with a completed circuit. Hope you've solved this by now with your back intact.
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MrHyde
post Nov 11 2010, 01:25 PM
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Thanks guys.. the switch is good.... signals still dont work..
BUT.... after wiggling the connections and making sure it was all right before I hooked the battery up I have one more thing kinda working.. lol...
Now.. with the key off... if I flick the turn signal stalk... I get the signal lights to turn on solid ( no flashing ).. works for L and R... as soon as I turn the key to ON... the lights go out and no flasher...
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pcar916
post Nov 11 2010, 02:15 PM
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QUOTE(MrHyde @ Nov 11 2010, 11:25 AM) *

the switch is good.... signals still dont work..
Now.. with the key off... if I flick the turn signal stalk... I get the signal lights to turn on solid ( no flashing ).. works for L and R... as soon as I turn the key to ON... the lights go out and no flasher...


Is the new relay in there?
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MrHyde
post Nov 11 2010, 03:01 PM
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nope ... no new relay yet... gonna have to order one from AA i thinks... I doubt I'll be able to get one at NAPA...
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DJKnut
post Nov 11 2010, 04:29 PM
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The turn lights on solid (L or R..) without the key is the European parking light option, and with the key on, they should blink... so I guess you verified the lighting portion of your system is functioning correctly... now just get them to blink!! Good work!! Dave
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bandjoey
post Nov 11 2010, 11:11 PM
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Grounds Grounds Grounds on the bulb sockets, wire terminals, and bulbs. I spent hours chasing the same problem. Cleaned all the grounds and it all worked.
This is a must do before chasing wires. A 12v test light is also your beat friend. Good luck.
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MrHyde
post Nov 24 2010, 07:40 PM
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So I've had success ! Kind of...

I ordered a new set of fuses and a new flasher relay.. The new relay is aparently a new electronic instead of the old analog one... meh...
My fuses were all wrong , so i figured I would put the proper fuses in ..

I put the new relay in, all the sudden my hazards dont work when they did before. I call for some assistance which was great.. trouble shooted the issue over the phone untill I got to a point where I was going to re-check the turn signal switch again so we hung up.. I unpluged the turn signal switch and out pops a wire from the connector.. Once I secure the wire into the connector again, put the OLD relay back in.. SUCCESS!! hazards work.. marker lights work, and turn signals work perfectly..
Wierd part is... put the NEW relay in... no workie.. hazard lights come on solid, no flashing, turn signals come on solid with no flashing.. I dont get it...

Also.. not sure if I should be concerned about this or not, but with the old relay back in... turn signals on and flashing... the indicator lights on the tach, both flash .. the L and R... does that matter as long as the turn signals work propperly ??
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jk76.914
post Nov 24 2010, 07:58 PM
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I figured this out a while back. I wrote up how it all works in this thread...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...6&hl=signal

My two posts are #10 and #11. If both indicators flash together, there is still a burned out bulb, OR a high resistance in the circuit somewhere, like a corroded plug, bulb socket, or ground.

Jim
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