Official Sasquatch build thread Part 1, Cosmo Rotary Turbo... Then boom... Options

[Rand]

Trailer in the yard, massage with the wife.......
Things are {boost} coming {ignition} together bro!

[Lennies914]

Mike, did you make room on the side yard for the roller I have on my side yard? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

Mike, did you make room on the side yard for the roller I have on my side yard? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

It will fit if I put it on my trailer...

[matthepcat]

I tracked down my overboost problem to the Wastegate. It does not open, or not enough. I instaled a 6psi spring and it still will not open. I'm going to take it all apart to see what is going on.

Todasy I spent the day cleaning my side yard and dump runs. I've been collecting to much stuff. My trailer now sits in my side yard and off my driveway.

Tomorrow I am taking the car out to Euro Sunday in Walnut Creek. After that I'm going fore an amssage with my wife.

I'm beat... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/head_hurts_kr.gif)

What happened to your trans output flange?

[Mike Bellis]

What happened to your trans output flange?

Nothing. Those are install pics. One while the CV's were in bags, before bolting on.

The wastegate is the only problem right now. I picked up some fuel rail blank to make my custom fuel rails. I'll get to it in a week or so. After the city comes back to inspect my property. I can't be working on my car when they come.

[Mike Bellis]

Well, on the way to the 914 reunion I broke down on the freeway. They are repaving 680 NB by my house. They have ground down the road bed 2-3 inches. At the transition of an overpass the built an asphalt ramp on the freeway. I got airborn in the rear at 75mph. When it landed it hit something on the road bed and peeled the oil drain bung right off the pan. The bottom of the oil pan is almost exactly the same as my engine mounting bar. I connected the factory low oil switch to my dash mounted check engine light. That's how I knew something was wrong. The smoke and oil all over the road was another clue. I think I got lucky and I hope the engine is OK.

I took some advice from McMark when fixing the pan. I shortened it by 1/4-3/8 inch and built kick outs to hold extra oil.

Not my best welds but I had to keep fixing leaks. I built it with 14ga steel I had. The extra sump is semi isolated with baffle trap doors (hinges). They open to the center, to the pickup tube. I think I almost doubled the capacity.















Here is my side yard. It is 20 feet wide by 60 feet long. I knew I should have installed concrete there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[jaxdream]

What are your plans for the hinge pins ????? Are you sure they won't work thier way out ??
Pan looks great , more capacity too = A big +.

Jack

[Andyrew]

AHAHAHA! I love the use of the 5 knuckle plain bearing hinges!

Very good fix!

[Mike Bellis]

AHAHAHA! I love the use of the 5 knuckle plain bearing hinges!

Very good fix!

This is exactly how my road racing oil pan on my V8 was set up. Hope i didn't infringe on any patents... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

Got the oil pan back in. Pretty easy fix and more volume and strength. I added a littler skid plate to the rear of the pan.





This is what it looks like inside... Not much. Oil pick up tube and oil pump chain are visible. I had to adjust the pick up tube some. I used a jack, block of wood and a folded rag to lift the pick up to its new pan depth. Worked out good.

[JRust]

I can almost hear the banjo's (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . That is so Redneck looking I (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) Love it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

Seriously though looks very functional. I worry about all the road construction. Got a nice crack in my windshied from flying asphalt a few weeks ago (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Glad to hear you were able to get it fixed.

[Mike Bellis]

Now the fun part. My custom J West inspired shift rod does not fit anymore. I've had parts laying around for a cable shift setup. I blew the dust off and started some fab. The shifter is a Fiero ($25 pick-n-pull). I made a slip fitter adapter for the shift console. 1" DOM, 0.120 wall tubing ($5) slips just over the ball once you remove the bushing. I drilled and taped the tube 120 degrees apart @ 3/4" from the end. I then did the same thing @ 3/8"(but rotated layout). I decided to use 2 different thread pitch set screws. 3 are 1/4"-20 and 3 are 1/4"-28. The -20 are used to index the slip fitting fore, aft, up or down. The -28 are use to secure the fitting on the ball. I then welded some 5/8" DOM inside the 1". This is used to set the depth (on the ball) and to reduce the opening. I then machined down a 1/4" heim joint to fit inside the DOM. The push pull cable will attach to the heim. I have not finished the cable brackets yet. One of the -28 set screws will be long and attach the other cable to it. I will have to drill a hole in the top of the console for this up/down movement. I am building a bracket that bolts to the lower front transmission/engine bolt. The rear attachment piont will be the shift console. This one bracket will hold both cables in position.

The shifter needed some minor tweeks too. first was excess brackets. I had to adjust the fore/aft stroke to 3.5"(3" is needed at the console), this was accomplished by removing the stock pin and welding in a bolt. This changed the geometry of the stop. Next I drilled out the cotter pin cable attachment and welded in a bolt. This is because the heim joints are thicker than the original pins would allow.

Now I have to wait for the cables to show up. I ordered one 6' and one 7'. More to come...

[Mike Bellis]

I had a little bit of time today. Started working on the bracket. I tried to make it simple and reproduceable. Not that I'm going to make more, but if you want to try, it not that hard. I made a tang to mount on the lower tranny mount. The main piece is some 2" flat stock (H.D. $8). I bent an offset to get some clearance from the CV. The rear will mount to the shift console. One of the ball/pinch bolts will double as the up/down heim connection. I machined out an opening in the top of the console for the heim. It's important to keep the heim as clost to the pivot point to avoid a large swing of the cable. The fore/aft heim will be final welded when the cables arrive. As will the cable brackets. The up/down bracket will weld to the main piece. I will use L channel vertically with a horizontal tang to hold the cable at elevation. The main piece is on the same plane as the top of the shift console, so it is not exactly level to the ground. Although I'm not a fan of cutting the console, I did. I needed to clearance for the cables.











I have decided to move the shifter rearward to a more comfortable position. The original hole will get filled. My Jegs pistol grip screwed right on the shifter. When all said and done I will have less than $100 into this project. All parts come from Ebay, Home Depot and Pick-N-Pull.

[Mike Bellis]

I am waiting for shifter parts to arrive. Here is my artist rendering of the final design. Thare are some vary complicated cable shift designs out there. I tried to keep this super simple in case someone else wants to fab their own. Many different shifters will work. Mine has a built it reverse/1st lockout spring on the correct side. The main issue will be fore/aft throw. The 901 per my design requires just over 3". If the slip fitter is extended, more throw is needed. The end of the fulcrum point is located where the rod was so the effort fore/aft shoule be the same as the rod (theoretically). I couldn't sleep so I started Fuching around on the computer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[matthepcat]

Careful Mike.

People might start asking you to make them a budget friendly cable-shift solution.

[Mike Bellis]

Careful Mike.

People might start asking you to make them a budget friendly cable-shift solution.

That's why I'm being very detailed. You guys can make your own with my design. When it's all done I may post more details and measurements in a new thread. I can't make enough to go into buisness. I'm not looking for a new career , I just want to drive! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Andyrew]

Mmmmmm Stop tempting me!!!

Really looking good!!

[JStroud]

Looking good Mike. Oil pan fix came out nice, I assume the motor ended up being OK since you've been working on the new shifter. Can't wait to see that thing run.

Jeff

[Mike Bellis]

Progress! Inside the car I installed rivet-nuts in the tunnel to hold the shifter in place. My cables came in. I had to move the attachment points on the shifter. I used some 3"x1/8" stock and some square washers (HD $5) to put the cables in the right place. No binding and smooth operation. I have the vertical cable bracket welded on the tranny bracket (no pics yet) I should have this driving this weekend. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) Euro sunday is having another event in Walnut Creek.

Cables: Ebay $26 each.
Shifter: Junk Yard $25.
Heim Joints: Ebay $20
Misc steel: $20 (maybe. I used mostly left over pieces from H.D.)

Total: $91 For a complete cable shift system. No I will not make you one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Well maybe for $300 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[matthepcat]

Bad ass! I want one........or is it my trans? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Nice work Mike!