Palindrome 914 Build Thread, now on the chassis jig Options

[ConeDodger]

Wow! I wish someone would put this much effort into building a carbon fiber body!

[nathansnathan]

Any progress on the rotisserie after getting the hoists?

I didn't see this until today. I've been so busy with work, I haven't been able to keep up with email. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Funny, I see you are looking at this thread right now. I will post an update soon. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[nathansnathan]

I've been working on the rotisserie for about 3-4 weeks now. I went to Guelph, Ontario for about a week with Kirsten to see the family's old farmhouse which is amazing.

I haven't gotten to assembling the hoist cages yet - I'm concentrating on what I am calling the "yokes" - the parts that attach to the car (like the yoke of an engine stand only bigger). The drawing posted above is pretty small, but here are close ups to show the pivots that have taken a lot of my time the past few weeks. I call the individual pieces of the pivots, "leaves" as they are interleaved for strength, 1/4" plate x 4", they are.





It would likely have been easier to grind the shapes from rectangles cut from a strip, but I made them from 4" squares and circles that I cut in half on the band saw and welded to each other. The ones on the far right are for the pivot at the car to yoke; there are 8 for now but I need to do still eight more.

The bigger ones to the left are for the spanning beams to the pivot plate. -I've got names for all the parts, I suppose. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grouphug.gif) I changed the design to make the outers longer halfway through making them so those pieces have 2 beads on them. There are 4 outers - 2 for the 2 yokes, and a total of 20. So 4 and 20 black birds baked in a pie. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) You can see one of my 12" filter fans with re-useable aluminum mesh filter - I have 3 going as it is hot here, even still.



Some of my favorite clamps. The aluminum is way too thin a backer for what I am about to do here, and ends up seriously warped.



2-3 passes each, cooling between, they still warp a little with the heat. I maybe should have preheated them. I beat them flat with a hammer though. The circles ended up being a marginal bit thicker than the squares. It would be nice to have a mill, but I have a grinder. Derek, you should remember that verysame bell grinder wheel that we used on the lathe table. It has slowly got shorter.

The big plates are to be mounts for the casters. An odd size, I had to make them from cut 8" squares of 1/4 inch plate.

The smaller pieces with the 3/4" holes marked on the left are to be backing plates for where the car is attached, 3/16 plate. I made 4 But realize I have to use just washers in back as the trunk floor divides the top and bottom bumper mount holes. This would prove to be just the first complication presented by the cars rear end.

DOM tube for the main pivots, ready to be faced at right.



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) That is some gnarly stuff there, the edges on the circles I mean, My grinder will fix them.



Drilled the holes first this time. These will be the mounts to the car. The saw gets its own fan.



The drawing doesn't have them, but I added spacers to the design of the pivots, so the leaves don't bend under side load. The assembly just behind the flap wheel is 2 leaves joined by the spacer. To the left of that is similar with a base, and the process there in the vice.



3/4" shoulder bolts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) 4" long for the beam pivots and a 2.5" at each end. Got these from McMaster car, all grade eight or equivalent, I got everything in socket head cap screw, black oxide finish for the hardware.



The "forearms" of the yoke are longer than in the drawing to allow greater access.


The other setback at the rear, the mounts point out by10 degrees of straight. I got this all jigged up and even tacked together before realizing the error in my thinking here. That is a box of 3 of the 15" version of the filter fans there. They do like twice the cfm's as the 12", so 750 and 1500 cfms for the 12 and 15 inch respectively, 3 of each, plus the crazy contraption seen on the bench above, I hope will be adequate for the paint booth.



ABout the rear bumper, the plan is to do both to fit to the front which is straight on, and to make adaptor plates to fit the back, which is also closer together by a bit iirc. The outer pivots will have another set of leaves at the outers at all 4 corners - those other 8 leaves I've yet to make. I plan to triangulate, a 4" x 1/4" triangle plate at the inner of the elbows also, a web elbow for strength. I've got both ends welded, a bit more than in this pic now, and soon to mount the leaves right to the middles there.



My little bandsaw has been busy. I was able to straighten out the tabs to get it to cut straight again. For a bit I was having to grind them straight, ever piece. I had to weld the vertical there and 1 of the horizontals, too as it is all remnants. With the car on the dolly, the adriatic jack stands have procreated. ... proud papa there in back. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



It is coming along, working on it this weekend, I will start attaching the span pivot leaves with spacers which I'll need to cut and then attach those to yokes directly.

I'm hoping that once the yokes, with the labor-intensive pivots are done, that the rest of the thing will go far more quickly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) .

[nathansnathan]

Updating where I'm at to give a better idea of the real thing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[dheming]

Nice fat update, looking good. Personally I think I would have just paid someone to plasma cut all the leaves for the hinge points. More arc time for you though so it's all good. Bummer that the circles where a slightly different thickness than the flat stock.

Last time I went to ALCO they some nice fat aluminum plate drops. They had a 24" x 36" x 3/4" plate that would make a nice little welding table top. You need to upgrade from that shim stock you be using as a backer. I'll see if I can score you something from my work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I can't believe that grinder wheel is still doing it's thing! That mofo is 3 years old now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I love that giganto C-clamp in that pic too. Looks super useful.

Good thing you caught that that 10° mount thing before you fully welded everything up. Would have been a lot more work than just breaking some tacks apart if you had.

All those hinges look pretty sweet in that last pic. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) The culmination of hours of work cutting, grinding and welding must feel good to see put together for the first time.

[Archie]

Picking up here, update the thread.
I met up with David again, I'd been thinking about the fresh air vents on his roller ever since I'd seen a week or 2 before getting the Mahles. I got some pics this time.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1307842265.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1307842266.2.jpg)

The car is pretty crusty at the longs and jack point is floating in the rocker, lower firewall is bad, and floors. She was well done, and so with the fresh air vents being very good compared to mine
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291591584.2.jpg)

Rather barbaric, I used a .40" cutting wheel on my 4 1/2 inch angle grinder.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1307842266.3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1307842266.4.jpg)

I got the seam sealers all out with the heat gun and scraping screw driver, some rust in there but solid. I've started blasting and it's looking great.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1307842267.5.jpg)

Will get a picture of after blasting and how I'm gonna install later.

Yeah. That seam-sealer is a complete PITA to dig out, especially around the shoulder-height vents in the door jambs!

[nathansnathan]

Yeah. That seam-sealer is a complete PITA to dig out, especially around the shoulder-height vents in the door jambs!

A heat gun and a big blunt screw driver gets it, but yeah it is a bear. Here is the other




It is easier when it is cut out! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[nathansnathan]

I've been eager to post a meaningful update, but ..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

My welder has been out of commission since the last post which has been awhile. It is 2 1/2 years old, still under warrantee, brought it to the service place and they charge me $200 for points because they are consumables, not covered. I bring it back home, and it still won't work, like it would start but no amperage. I bring it back again and the guy looks at it right when I'm there, 2 seconds and he's like, "It's the capacitor". So another week or so to get the part from Miller, and I think it is working now. I haven't got to try it very long because I went on vacation to Guelph, Ontario for a week, then ran out of gas right before New Year's and no one was open. I finally have a tank and am ready to get started again.

I should post pics of the lights I am building for the paint booth. A little OT but, they are the best strip lights ever! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[dheming]

Bummer about the welder still having problems. I remember when my machine was down for a month straight because no one had a gas hose locally.. My shop came to a standstill.

I'm looking forward to seeing the light fixtures. 100% stainless construction is not something you see everyday. How's the new welding table coming along?

I've been eager to post a meaningful update, but ..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

My welder has been out of commission since the last post which has been awhile. It is 2 1/2 years old, still under warrantee, brought it to the service place and they charge me $200 for points because they are consumables, not covered. I bring it back home, and it still won't work, like it would start but no amperage. I bring it back again and the guy looks at it right when I'm there, 2 seconds and he's like, "It's the capacitor". So another week or so to get the part from Miller, and I think it is working now. I haven't got to try it very long because I went on vacation to Guelph, Ontario for a week, then ran out of gas right before New Year's and no one was open. I finally have a tank and am ready to get started again.

I should post pics of the lights I am building for the paint booth. A little OT but, they are the best strip lights ever! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[nathansnathan]

Bummer about the welder still having problems. I remember when my machine was down for a month straight because no one had a gas hose locally.. My shop came to a standstill.

I'm looking forward to seeing the light fixtures. 100% stainless construction is not something you see everyday. How's the new welding table coming along?

I've just been using the welding table on top of my work bench, raised on sections of 2x6. The treadle stand was not up to the task, and I'm going to have to look for another option for a base.


Derek at work on the table...


I've been working on the paint booth setup to get this handled. Lights are part of that set up. The complete picture involves a lot of fans, another palette rack and floor section, the rotisserie completed, and plywood enclosure for the booth.

Lights are coming along. I've got 2, almost 3 done. I was going to make 2 4 footers, but it turns out that I was misguided and they don't make single pin instant start 4' t8 bulbs. -for some reason I thought I had found the ballasts, but they aren't what I thought. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I will figure something out.





I sewed the nylon supports from pieces cut off a nylon tie down strap. I need to weld that one where I goofed with the mill to do the 4th still.


Mounting the ballasts inside with aluminum rivnuts.


Aluminum cord strain relief, use npt thread. Stainless torx drive 10-24. Pics were blurry of the stainless square nuts I welded to the inside - quite a challenge to make the end caps.


While the welder was down, I moved the loft to the other side, to turn it into part of a paint booth. It will have to be twice as big, though to fit the rotisserie. It's great to be able to see the 914 again though. A few weeks it sat in the dark.


Just cleaning parts and fondling my wiring harness during that time, rubbing its brittle ends with glycerin, brass wire brushing the connector ends which are quite oxidized, I've been putting dielectric grease on them. The hot ones, I've redone the cracked off heat shrink at the ends. It turns out half the front of the harness the wires were all melted together. The driver side front side marker, parking light, and turn signal had no insulation at all, burned up. Missing the rear license plate light wires... I was able to replace it all using parts of the impressively screwed up harness from the black car. It is coming along, got to give it more going through.

I been working on the driver side fresh air duct since the lights have been up. Hopefully I will post pics of that soon. I made an impressive hole in the car there today. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Archie]

Picking up here, update the thread.
I met up with David again, I'd been thinking about the fresh air vents on his roller ever since I'd seen a week or 2 before getting the Mahles. I got some pics this time.

The car is pretty crusty at the longs and jack point is floating in the rocker, lower firewall is bad, and floors. She was well done, and so with the fresh air vents being very good compared to mine

Rather barbaric, I used a .40" cutting wheel on my 4 1/2 inch angle grinder.

Yeah. I got a crusty jamb vent on the driver's side. Looks like you're getting there though!

I got the seam sealers all out with the heat gun and scraping screw driver, some rust in there but solid. I've started blasting and it's looking great.

Will get a picture of after blasting and how I'm gonna install later.

Yeah. That seam-sealer is a complete PITA to dig out, especially around the shoulder-height vents in the door jambs!

[porsche_dreamer]

3 months and no updates?

[nathansnathan]

3 months and no updates?

Man, I did not even see this. I wasn't subscribed anymore. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[nathansnathan]

Well, I decided to take on a 'little thing' in the meantime, the driver fresh air inlet.

I got the seam sealer out.


I had wondered how bad it was really.






The new piece to go in


I had damaged it cutting it out, but easy to fix. Cleaned.


It is hard to get the ready-to-go-in shot because the shiny metal reflects and autofocus won't work.

New piece in




I have the car back on jack stands (off the dolly). But, besides the 2 flat-tops, they are all leveling jack stands. I've got the car leveled using a machinists level, supported by 4 pairs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) - thats 2 at the firewall, 2 by the front firewall, 2 at the front and 2 at the rear trunk area. There are also some random additional stands positioning the firewall and floor for fitting purposes. I have the driver side braces removed from the door to make sure gap is right and for fitting the air inlet piece.


So far it is just fit up, not welded in....still wondering about this pitting.... I may get the spot blaster going on it and see what is under the white stuff.

[nathansnathan]

I have spent a lot of time on the rotisserie. This is my current drawing;




I have added adjustment for the center of gravity of the body. According to McMark, it is about an inch below the 'lip' in the front and rear. This is about 3 inches up from the line that goes through the center of the bumper mount holes. So the pivot is offset 3 inches from the beam and there is adjustability of 2 inches up and down for fine tuning. I am going up to visit Derek in Oakland, to make use of the mill at his work to form the slots.

C-notched (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) -root pass here


Through pipes welded in. I turned these on the lathe, .770+/-.005 inch ID


I am trying to finish the support beams smooth, with grinding wheel flush and flap disk smooth. Currently out of disks.


Caps fusion welded, and caster plates welded with just the root pass so far.


Working on the cable hoist mounts, my "cages".

Mocked up and part tacked


The cut material. Welding the through tubes there. Bevel-ground and mill scale sanded. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)






The stands tacked


Enlarged the 7/16 nut-serts in the mounting plates


to 5/8 square weld nuts


and now out of argon (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

I need to do the sliders to do the verticals (holes, tubes, diagonals, flanges). coming along, I guess. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[nathansnathan]

I had the tires unmounted from the wheels. They were all shot and mismatched, etc. I had 4 from the parts car. I kept the parts car's spare mounted, an unused 165 series Continental that is so vintage looking, I want to hang it on my wall.


I sort of expected them all to be the same... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)


Lip to lip, they measure; the white one is 5 inches , the black is 5 1/2, and the silver is 6 3/4 inches lip to lip. I have a rust-colored (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) that matches the white as well. I'm not sure what the spare is. It's hard to tell with the tire on. It has a sizable dent in the lip even if it wasn't serving as such great art.

So I know I had posted pics of the mahles before, and I always wanted a 914 with 'baby gasburners' (even though I used to think they were just gasburners- didn't know about 5 lug) but......I am really wanting to have silver steelies.... with 165's on them.

I know that I will never have car of the month with 165's and no one will want to be my friend here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)

Unfortunately I traded the wheels that were on the blue car to Dave to keep the parts car he had rolling, so I don't have the original wheels.... I will try to get in touch with him, beach914.

The book says standard wheels are 4 1/2" and the optional steelie is 5 1/2. Where are they measuring that from? I am trying to figure out what I have here. Thinking I want the thinnest ones. Would an appearance group car automatically have had the 5 1/2's? I had thought those were pretty uncommon... but shows what I know with my 6 3/4's. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[nathansnathan]

It's been awhile since I've updated. My camera had got broken, but I have been at it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yellowsleep[1].gif)

Where the inner long meets the front wheel well is mig welded and it's easier to cut out than grind the welds in place.


Inside


I filled and ground the holes left from drilling the spot welds, the original piece removed from the long.


I have a thumb wheel for my tig torch. It is tricky to lie on your back.


Grinding and sanding. I may fix the bottom better....


Inside again.


I will lead in to a post on work on the floor... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif)

[nathansnathan]

So, I had actually bolted everything together and done a test fit. I decided to cut the firewall at a diagonal and cut out the front half of the passenger floor so the whole assembly can slide in.




(IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) :clampsandbolts:




(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif)


Oh yeah, the floor.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif) ...

[nathansnathan]

An old pic here...


I got a spot welder so I need to fill in all the holes. I had thought about plug welding it using the holes, but the tig doesn't like the weld through very much. I think it will have a smaller burn area as the weld thru primer goes, between the panels.

The floor, firewall, etc, in pieces...


I was quite a butcher at the beginning.




(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) weld grind weld grind sand. I am using a mini pnuematic strait die grinder with a 1/4" arbor with a 1 1/2 inch x .040" grinding wheel to take it down just proud, and then a right angle mini die grinder with a 1/4 inch arbor also, and roloc pad. I use a conditioning pad before welding, and then after the grinding, an 80 grit sand paper pad to smooth it. THere are 100's of welds to fill in between the long, floor, firewall pieces, etc.


and... still some more to do...

[SirAndy]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)