OBX Headers Options

[Maltese Falcon]

Not knocking your purchase in terms of be a savvy & frugal enthusiast, but you might want to read up on Crystallization stresses on Stainless Steel. In this case, especially with super thin 18 ga. (last obx we examined), offshore SS alloys usually contaminated with "Other stuff" ; tubing mills are not held to Western/ nor Euro standards. Your tubes may require patchwork in their lifetime.

[barefoot]

I actually have a set that I bought off of another member for similar reasons to you. I wanted to try some of my own fab work on them. But the set I got had the header end cut off and a nice set of stub ends with bolt on flanges fitted already. Unfortunately I actually have not installed them yet but they do look good with the current alterations. The previous owner had used them on a race engine for a time. And like you I have never seen a set of stainless headers for the 914 other than the old SSI exchangers.

If you're going to cut & weld on them, you MUST provide purge gas to the inside of the joints otherwise you'll get oxidation on the inside of thru penetration butt welds which will lead to cracking & joint failure. We X-rayed all butt welds where i worked.
That's an industry standard

[Literati914]

.. But the set I got had the header end cut off and a nice set of stub ends with bolt on flanges fitted already. Unfortunately I actually have not installed them yet but they do look good with the current alterations. ..

This is what I'd considered too, probably the best bet 'cause then I actually could "expect them to seal" (right porschetub?).

...might want to read up on Crystallization stresses on Stainless Steel. In this case, especially with super thin 18 ga. (last obx we examined), offshore SS alloys usually contaminated with "Other stuff" ; tubing mills are not held to Western/ nor Euro standards. Your tubes may require patchwork in their lifetime.

Ok, I've taken note and will research that a bit.. still though, the price could possibly offset the concern, no?

If you're going to cut & weld on them, you MUST provide purge gas to the inside of the joints otherwise you'll get oxidation on the inside of thru penetration butt welds which will lead to cracking & joint failure. We X-rayed all butt welds where i worked.
That's an industry standard

That's a good point.. I'd probably have a professional do the work (one of the race shops over by Texas Motor Speedway) do the work.. but then that kicks the cost up too. So, that's why I'm even asking the question. It comes down to this: at what price point does it make it worth the effort? $220 shipped is what I've been quoted.

[mepstein]

I would start off with the right parts. They will assemble easily and correctly. They will also have value if you ever sell them. It’s always more expensive to buy cheap crap, modify and then buy the good stuff you wish you bought the first time.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

How cheap is your fab guy? At shop hours a day of work cutting and welding these to fit would end up costing you the same as one of Chris's systems.

If you are doing the welding yourself, that is the only way you are going to save money with these.

Zach

[Literati914]

I'm having my OBX headers shipped directly to Motormeister so they can install them there while they're building my race motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

Hey Eric - did your set of OBX headers also turn out to be a nightmare for Motormeister to install... or did you make this comment in jest ?

[mb911]

All good points.. I can't even sell you flanges and elbows for that price and we have a mandrel cnc bender on site.. Are they high quality =no are they inexpensive=yes, will they last forever=no.. The stainless is likely 200 series and also its multi pass welds on 18 ga which will cause carbide precipitation and ultimately cracking and rusting.. That said for the price you can mess with it and report back long term.. I think that will help a bunch for future potential buyers.

[bdstone914]

You can lead a person to knowledge but you can't make them think.

[Literati914]

I'm having my OBX headers shipped directly to Motormeister so they can install them there while they're building my race motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

But, but.. you did just read this one guy's experience, right? and you mean to tell us, you still bought one? Man, what would Bruce Stone say?

Some people just can't be helped

Not exactly constructive, actually a little insulting tbh, and for no reason. I don't get that, but if it makes you feel better about yourself.. it's cool.

You can lead a person to knowledge but you can't make them think.

Yea Bruce Stone, you sure are helpful too. You stick to that group think, it's safe.

But I get it, the group's opinion is "I wouldn't take one of these if they were giving them away !!" . Not sure why I dared to think differently, I shall fall in line.

[mepstein]

Remember, we are mostly middle age men on this site. A group not exactly known for their tact or correctness. But it's all between friends who want each other to succeed with their cars.

[SirAndy]

I'm having my OBX headers shipped directly to Motormeister so they can install them there while they're building my race motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

But, but.. you did just read this one guy's experience, right? and you mean to tell us, you still bought one? Man, what would Bruce Stone say?

I don't blame you for not getting the joke. Just search "Motormeister" here and Eric's post will make a lot more sense.

Again, there is a reason why people don't use them (both OBX and Motormeister).

If you don't want to learn from other people's mistakes that's fine. It's your time and money.

But please don't get all pissy at people who have the knowledge and are trying to help you.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[jd74914]

All good points.. I can't even sell you flanges and elbows for that price and we have a mandrel cnc bender on site.. Are they high quality =no are they inexpensive=yes, will they last forever=no.. The stainless is likely 200 series and also its multi pass welds on 18 ga which will cause carbide precipitation and ultimately cracking and rusting.. That said for the price you can mess with it and report back long term.. I think that will help a bunch for future potential buyers.

That's a good point, they could be 202 or something which is somewhat intentionally difficult to differentiate from 304.

At $200 you could make our reasonably well just using them for parts if you have the skills to rework them. I considered buying a set a few years ago to cut apart and use the bends (since they looked clean), but never did because I just didn't have the time.

[Literati914]

..

But please don't get all pissy at people who have the knowledge and are trying to help you.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

WOW - I am truely shocked. Instead of constructive help, I get nothing but negativity and RUDE comments from SirAndy, Garry 73-914, porschetub and Bruce Stone ... you telling me those guys were trying to help me? Then you tell ME, I'm being pissy? I actually bit my tongue with replies. If it's the imoji you have a problem with, why's it available? BTW, I notice you didn't make any such comments to the others - so me defending myself is obviously the problem. Says something about you imho. I'll be more careful in the future not to offend y'all I guess.

[mb911]

I am now without words.. Please let us know how they work. Lets get some real data.

[SirAndy]

WOW - I am truely shocked. Instead of constructive help ...

You got PLENTY of constructive help in this thread, you just don't want to hear it.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[Literati914]

WOW - I am truely shocked. Instead of constructive help ...

You got PLENTY of constructive help in this thread, you just don't want to hear it.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Look Andy, you just made my quote look like I was saying nobody gave constructive help... you should have added the rest of it (it named you and 3 others)! It's easy to say it won't work, but you guys offer no reason.

Yes, I certainly did get constructive and helpful comments - specifically from bretth, maltese falcon, barefoot, mepstein, vaccarabite, mb911 and jd74914... and these guys were not exactly cheering me on either, which is not what I was after and I appreciate the thought that went into THEIR posts. Thanks everyone. If I go thru with the purchase and am not able to modify them to a useful state, then it's my own fault and I can not say I wasn't warned. If I am able to make them work, but they don't last a lifetime - that's understood too. I haven't made up my mind yet on the purchase - why I was asking for thoughts, in the first place. I'll update if/when I get them. thanks again.

[Literati914]

I am now without words.. Please let us know how they work. Lets get some real data.

OK, gonna (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dead horse.gif) , bear with me folks. I was contacted by a member here asking what my experience was with the OBX headers (after research and reading this thread I'm sure). I told him I'd send him some pics but I figured I'd just post in this thread for a general update.

The fact is I bought the OBX headers 5 months back, quickly turned my spare 2056 'GA' engine up-side-down and loosely installed the headers - loosely 'cause a couple exhaust studs were missing. Then I basically forgot about this engine/exhaust set up so I could concentrate on other things, building a fence, and doing rust repair work on my 914 project - here and there, etc. BTW, I was told by the seller that these were new, never used.. but they were obviously used - the stainless had been heat cycled several times and the color had gone a gold/purple (as stainless exhausts will do). This didn't bother me, I saw it as a good sign - they'd actually been mounted to a type IV !

Anyway, now I've replaced those missing exhaust studs and bolted up the header tightly and shot some pics. BTW, the OD of the primaries are 38mm/1.5".

Some notes about installation: I had to install cylinders in this order: #4,#3,#1,#2.. and actually #4 & #3 needed to be started at the same time (slip over the studs simultaneously), otherwise they would foul each other.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177910.1.jpg)upload photos
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177911.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177911.3.jpg)
One with the collector installed:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177912.4.jpg)

Here's a shot with the Stainless Sport Muffler I picked up:(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177912.5.jpg)

I had hoped it would just fit, no drama .. but it's off by about 1/2" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) , and the flange needs to be clocked - close but no cigar. My luck. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177912.6.jpg)

So, as you can see.. while some (most (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ) OBX headers have a fitment issue, not all do, as I'd suspected. I got em so cheap, I'd been ok if work was needed - I'm pleased with these so far but of course I haven't fired the engine up with them either. I just wanted to up date the group, answer any questions or comments.

[barefoot]

I am now without words.. Please let us know how they work. Lets get some real data.

OK, gonna (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dead horse.gif) , bear with me folks. I was contacted by a member here asking what my experience was with the OBX headers (after research and reading this thread I'm sure). I told him I'd send him some pics but I figured I'd just post in this thread for a general update.



S
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177910.1.jpg)upload photos
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177911.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177911.3.jpg)
One with the collector installed:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177912.4.jpg)

Here's a shot with the Stainless Sport Muffler I picked up:(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177912.5.jpg)

I had hoped it would just fit, no drama .. but it's off by about 1/2" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) , and the flange needs to be clocked - close but no cigar. My luck. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177912.6.jpg)

So, as you can see.. while some (most (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ) OBX headers have a fitment issue, not all do, as I'd suspected. I got em so cheap, I'd been ok if work was needed - I'm pleased with these so far but of course I haven't fired the engine up with them either. I just wanted to up date the group, answer any questions or comments.

Installed with the muffler bolted solid to the tranny you're gonna have thermal stress issues with differential thermal expansion. The exhaust is gonna grow in length lots more than the engine & tranny cases, so you have to have compliant coupling at the muffler just like the standard 914 muffler hangers. They allow the system to grow axially with heat.

[mb911]

I am now without words.. Please let us know how they work. Lets get some real data.

OK, gonna (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dead horse.gif) , bear with me folks. I was contacted by a member here asking what my experience was with the OBX headers (after research and reading this thread I'm sure). I told him I'd send him some pics but I figured I'd just post in this thread for a general update.



S
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177910.1.jpg)upload photos
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177911.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177911.3.jpg)
One with the collector installed:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177912.4.jpg)

Here's a shot with the Stainless Sport Muffler I picked up:(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177912.5.jpg)

I had hoped it would just fit, no drama .. but it's off by about 1/2" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) , and the flange needs to be clocked - close but no cigar. My luck. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582177912.6.jpg)

So, as you can see.. while some (most (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ) OBX headers have a fitment issue, not all do, as I'd suspected. I got em so cheap, I'd been ok if work was needed - I'm pleased with these so far but of course I haven't fired the engine up with them either. I just wanted to up date the group, answer any questions or comments.

Installed with the muffler bolted solid to the tranny you're gonna have thermal stress issues with differential thermal expansion. The exhaust is gonna grow in length lots more than the engine & tranny cases, so you have to have compliant coupling at the muffler just like the standard 914 muffler hangers. They allow the system to grow axially with heat.

The merge is slip so that will accommodate the expansion and contraction..

[Literati914]

Installed with the muffler bolted solid to the tranny you're gonna have thermal stress issues with differential thermal expansion. The exhaust is gonna grow in length lots more than the engine & tranny cases, so you have to have compliant coupling at the muffler just like the standard 914 muffler hangers. They allow the system to grow axially with heat.

Hmm, I can't say who made this particular stainless muffler, I suspect it's an early tangerine unit - never the less tangerine does currently offer mufflers with similar mounting brackets as mine (that bolt directly to the trans). These things are usually thought thru before bringing to market. I haven't read of issues So, I'm hoping your prediction is off. On the other hand.. I could cut that bracket off and fab up some smaller side mounts to match up to the stock bracket I have laying around.

The merge is slip so that will accommodate the expansion and contraction..

There is an attachment bracket built on to the stainless collector, that keeps the whole unit from slipping. I hadn't considered leaving it un-bolted, but maybe that's the best option? Maybe I should install a spring or two? Do you think there'd be any negative to slipping that collector south a bit and taking up my 1/2" gap ?
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-7222-1582212600.1.jpg)