Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[Andyrew]

Aha,

Well thats the same FD,1st,2nd,3rd, and 4th as my proposed custom box... I need to go for a ride....

What size rear tires are you running, IIRC your running a shorter tire than me, combined with me running more RPM would make my gears feel much longer than your box. I remember when I had my KO3 and shifted at 6k I felt like it was a pretty short gearbox and hated going into 3rd for 60.. When I went with the big turbo and increase the limit to 7250 I loved the gear spacing.

[Mike Bellis]

Aha,

Well thats the same FD,1st,2nd,3rd, and 4th as my proposed custom box... I need to go for a ride....

What size rear tires are you running, IIRC your running a shorter tire than me, combined with me running more RPM would make my gears feel much longer than your box. I remember when I had my KO3 and shifted at 6k I felt like it was a pretty short gearbox and hated going into 3rd for 60.. When I went with the big turbo and increase the limit to 7250 I loved the gear spacing.

245/50/16
I love the spread of 3-4. 1st & 2nd are short and 5th needs to be taller. Oddly enough my 6 speed has the same final ratio (.003 difference), doing 80mph at 3200 rpm. 1st on the 6 speed is super short.

[Andyrew]

Got the cable shifter done yesterday. Very happy with it! I need to come up with some way of retaining the cables, right now there pretty tight I have to wiggle them with some force to put them in place, but its possible itll come out. Maybe a slotted hose clamp or zip ties (Or I could leave it... I seriously doubt it'll come loose) Whole shifter mechanism weighs 4.2lbs including the mounts. Better than I was expecting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)







https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1-YbGolBw


I mounted the engine on a cart to push around a bit better. I think I am going to start with an engine bar mount bar similar to the 914 bar. Should be easy enough to fabricate.

[Mike Bellis]

Steam Punk! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-172-1433219330_thumb.jpg)

[Mike Bellis]

I have a better set of 100mm axle flanges for you. Fully round without the flat spot.

[Andyrew]

Steam Punk! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-172-1433219330_thumb.jpg)

Hahaha just saw this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Very true


I've been spending a bunch of time working on my excel sheet and getting all my purchases in order.

Did some research on my water pump and decided on the Davies Craig pump and electronic controller.
http://www.amazon.com/Davies-Craig-Metal-E...ds=davies+craig
I am considering the new LCD display as well just because, but its going to get hidden behind my dash so I am not really that sure if I want it..
https://daviescraig.com.au/switches-controllers


Heres some info on the pumps and their research. Combined with their controller I think it would be a pretty efficient system..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrfux_-6RVw


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ia4BQR23r4I

[Mike Bellis]

I highly recommend this pump/ It's a little cheaper too.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/emp-e389a-bk14

I considered the davis pump but this one runs silent and is mounted in line. Works great on the 1.8t also most davis pumps ship without fittings. So there is an extra cost.

[Andyrew]

Mike does that come with a controller like the davis pump? Because the davis pump itself is only 225, the controller is another 225/200

[Mike Bellis]

Mike does that come with a controller like the davis pump? Because the davis pump itself is only 225, the controller is another 225/200

It does not have an LCD unit. It has some kind of controller bolted to it. I simply run a relay and have it start with the fuel pump. It starts slow and ramps up to full speed in a minute or so. Only way to hear it run is with your ear stuck to it.

It also pumps 55gpm. I could not find a rating on the davies unit.

[Andyrew]

David unit is 30 or 40 depending on the model. (Im thinking 30, they actually reccend smaller for a 1.8

Check out that first video its got some amazing test results showing how the speed did not have that much affect on actual cooling ability as it allowed the radiator to do more cooling.

The swcond vid ahows how interesting the controller is and the main reason why I want to try this system

[Mike Bellis]

Hopefully it will work well. One this to consider is most cars also have air flow over the engine to take away heat as well. The 914 conversions don't.

I found the 1.8t mechanical pump could not flow well enough to keep my engine cool.

You will be making a lot of HP which equals heat. I want to see this pulsating pump in action.

[Andyrew]

Mike, Are you still running the stock water pump as well, just without a thermostat?

[Mike Bellis]

Mike, Are you still running the stock water pump as well, just without a thermostat?

Stock pump is there with no belt and spinning freely. I have the thermostat with three 1/8" holes drilled in it.

[Andyrew]

Mike,

I think I'll take you up on those axle flanges, I have some bus axles and adapters that I can probably just use as spacers (Or sell and make spacers) depending on my requirements there. Combine this with some 944 turbo axle stubs and it should be a relatively bolt in system..

Im still thinking I need to utilize the spacers as my ABS sensor or build the sensors on the back side of the flanges. This would take some real custom machining but I think its 100% doable. (I might enlist some help from guys with many more tools than I (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif))

Onto this weekends progress... I fabricated the base of the engine mount. I could have made this level and had the bar go across all the way but that would require a lot of measuring and the engine in place. Heck I may still do that. BUT This gets me a low clearance bar that I can tie into. Bar is 1 1/2" DOM and is pretty overkill when you really look at it. I left an extra 10" overhanging total and will just use that for the real fabrication points of the chassis to the engine and cut off the excess. I am using the stock motor mount brackets and motor mounts themselves (The one's I am currently using are racing motor mounts and a very high density, I might switch one out for a stock mount to eliminate some vibration).

[Mike Bellis]

How are you going to clock the transaxle so the shafts are level? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I'll dig the flanges out for the next time I see you.

[Andyrew]

I'll just adjust the engine/trans so the shafts are level. Im really not anticipating a huge issue here. Since the engine can be relatively anywhere within about 15 degrees I'll just move it forward/back left/right till the shafts are equal. The shafts will be the largest priority for the engine placement. I'll find the location that puts the trans at the right height and the shafts at an appropriate angle at right height and pivot the engine till it clears as much as possible with the largest ground clearance. I think I am going to place the engine while its on 3 small jacks and just build the mount around that.

[Mike Bellis]

I'll just adjust the engine/trans so the shafts are level. Im really not anticipating a huge issue here. Since the engine can be relatively anywhere within about 15 degrees I'll just move it forward/back left/right till the shafts are equal. The shafts will be the largest priority for the engine placement. I'll find the location that puts the trans at the right height and the shafts at an appropriate angle at right height and pivot the engine till it clears as much as possible with the largest ground clearance. I think I am going to place the engine while its on 3 small jacks and just build the mount around that.

That's basically what I did. I put a level on the tranny since the motor has no real level parts.

[Andyrew]

Got a box of goodies today!

Gonna spend quite some time identifying everything... BUT

Top box is engine harness
Bottom box is dash harness plus the gas pedal (DBW)
To the right from the top down is: Ecu, Coils, Throttle body, MAF

Not pictured is alternator, and the dash cluster itself is on its way.


What I need now is the body harness itself. So that will be difficult/fun. I've got a couple local guys parting their cars out but I havent been able to convince them to let me at their parts car with three guys for a day... I can do pick and pull but Id rather have most of the stuff ripped out by someone else (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

All you need is the ECU harness, Dash cluster and harness, gas pedal and ODB plug. Everything else is extra. Wait, are you still going with the CCU?

[Andyrew]

Yup.. Doing the whole shebang. ABS, traction control, ect. So I want to pick up a body harness to replace all of my current wiring. Whatever I dont use will either be unplugged/coded out/resistors. I'll have my tuner just remove everything I dont need.