Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[Mike Bellis]

I highly recommend this pump/ It's a little cheaper too.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/emp-e389a-bk14

I considered the davis pump but this one runs silent and is mounted in line. Works great on the 1.8t also most davis pumps ship without fittings. So there is an extra cost.

[Andyrew]

Mike does that come with a controller like the davis pump? Because the davis pump itself is only 225, the controller is another 225/200

[Mike Bellis]

Mike does that come with a controller like the davis pump? Because the davis pump itself is only 225, the controller is another 225/200

It does not have an LCD unit. It has some kind of controller bolted to it. I simply run a relay and have it start with the fuel pump. It starts slow and ramps up to full speed in a minute or so. Only way to hear it run is with your ear stuck to it.

It also pumps 55gpm. I could not find a rating on the davies unit.

[Andyrew]

David unit is 30 or 40 depending on the model. (Im thinking 30, they actually reccend smaller for a 1.8

Check out that first video its got some amazing test results showing how the speed did not have that much affect on actual cooling ability as it allowed the radiator to do more cooling.

The swcond vid ahows how interesting the controller is and the main reason why I want to try this system

[Mike Bellis]

Hopefully it will work well. One this to consider is most cars also have air flow over the engine to take away heat as well. The 914 conversions don't.

I found the 1.8t mechanical pump could not flow well enough to keep my engine cool.

You will be making a lot of HP which equals heat. I want to see this pulsating pump in action.

[Andyrew]

Mike, Are you still running the stock water pump as well, just without a thermostat?

[Mike Bellis]

Mike, Are you still running the stock water pump as well, just without a thermostat?

Stock pump is there with no belt and spinning freely. I have the thermostat with three 1/8" holes drilled in it.

[Andyrew]

Mike,

I think I'll take you up on those axle flanges, I have some bus axles and adapters that I can probably just use as spacers (Or sell and make spacers) depending on my requirements there. Combine this with some 944 turbo axle stubs and it should be a relatively bolt in system..

Im still thinking I need to utilize the spacers as my ABS sensor or build the sensors on the back side of the flanges. This would take some real custom machining but I think its 100% doable. (I might enlist some help from guys with many more tools than I (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif))

Onto this weekends progress... I fabricated the base of the engine mount. I could have made this level and had the bar go across all the way but that would require a lot of measuring and the engine in place. Heck I may still do that. BUT This gets me a low clearance bar that I can tie into. Bar is 1 1/2" DOM and is pretty overkill when you really look at it. I left an extra 10" overhanging total and will just use that for the real fabrication points of the chassis to the engine and cut off the excess. I am using the stock motor mount brackets and motor mounts themselves (The one's I am currently using are racing motor mounts and a very high density, I might switch one out for a stock mount to eliminate some vibration).

[Mike Bellis]

How are you going to clock the transaxle so the shafts are level? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I'll dig the flanges out for the next time I see you.

[Andyrew]

I'll just adjust the engine/trans so the shafts are level. Im really not anticipating a huge issue here. Since the engine can be relatively anywhere within about 15 degrees I'll just move it forward/back left/right till the shafts are equal. The shafts will be the largest priority for the engine placement. I'll find the location that puts the trans at the right height and the shafts at an appropriate angle at right height and pivot the engine till it clears as much as possible with the largest ground clearance. I think I am going to place the engine while its on 3 small jacks and just build the mount around that.

[Mike Bellis]

I'll just adjust the engine/trans so the shafts are level. Im really not anticipating a huge issue here. Since the engine can be relatively anywhere within about 15 degrees I'll just move it forward/back left/right till the shafts are equal. The shafts will be the largest priority for the engine placement. I'll find the location that puts the trans at the right height and the shafts at an appropriate angle at right height and pivot the engine till it clears as much as possible with the largest ground clearance. I think I am going to place the engine while its on 3 small jacks and just build the mount around that.

That's basically what I did. I put a level on the tranny since the motor has no real level parts.

[Andyrew]

Got a box of goodies today!

Gonna spend quite some time identifying everything... BUT

Top box is engine harness
Bottom box is dash harness plus the gas pedal (DBW)
To the right from the top down is: Ecu, Coils, Throttle body, MAF

Not pictured is alternator, and the dash cluster itself is on its way.


What I need now is the body harness itself. So that will be difficult/fun. I've got a couple local guys parting their cars out but I havent been able to convince them to let me at their parts car with three guys for a day... I can do pick and pull but Id rather have most of the stuff ripped out by someone else (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

All you need is the ECU harness, Dash cluster and harness, gas pedal and ODB plug. Everything else is extra. Wait, are you still going with the CCU?

[Andyrew]

Yup.. Doing the whole shebang. ABS, traction control, ect. So I want to pick up a body harness to replace all of my current wiring. Whatever I dont use will either be unplugged/coded out/resistors. I'll have my tuner just remove everything I dont need.

[Mike Bellis]

I'll be watching your wheel speed sensor solution... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Andyrew]

My understanding is that the speed sensor is based on the abs sensor. My plan is 944 turbo front abs sensors and custom rear to match my overzised rear tires.

[Andyrew]

Oh and the rear will be on the cv adapter trans side.

[Mike Bellis]

Oh and the rear will be on the cv adapter trans side.

If you go with something like this http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant...r-drive-flanges I have 3/16" magnets for you to embed. I think I have 12 left over, 3/8" long.

[Andyrew]

Based on my understanding most abs systems have the magnet on the sensor side, but Ill let you know! The spacer/adapter will be custom milled I suspect.

[Andyrew]

Playing around with the tire calculator I realized that I can use a 245/45/17 tire up front instead of the 245/40/17 tire currently up front and all of a sudden the front/rear ratio is perfect vs being 1" off.... I'll keep this in the back of my brain as I go through the ABS stuff... This might let me use stock Porsche ABS rings in the rear vs milling my own rear rings (an extra 5% more slots to compensate)

I'll have to see what I can come up with for that.

I also found out some different ABS ring sizes that I can pick up so I might just mill that into my spacer for my CV's (should be relatively easy, make the OD on the spacer the same as the ID on the ABS ring, weld on.)