Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[Andyrew]

Im still positioning the setup left,right, up, down, tilt, back. In my head the setup needs to come back an inch and up 2-3, or tilted forward about 5-10 deg to get the trans tucked up a bit more and the axles more level with the suspension. I'd like to get the axles almost level when the car is in its resting position.






Hard to see in this photo, but the trans is about 1" forward of the axles when the engine is touching the firewall.


And finally, started reinforcing the rear shock tower for my brace. I am going to remove the firewall where the blue tape is (did get a full pic of it) and rebuild/box it about 6" back where the shocks are. I'm going to have a local metal shop bend up some steel similar to the 914 humps for strength and weld it in to the 1" bar brace I weld in between the towers. I am going for a near factory look when done.

[rightpedal]

Are you going to add more support in the front corners of the engine bay? I ask because we were looking at my build car (cut out engine tray) and the parts car (tray intact) thinking that's a fair amount of triangulation/support. Just looking to what others are doing in that arena.

Steve

[Andyrew]

Its a fair amount of triangulation to the firewall which is essentially non structural.

That being said yes there is some additional reinforcements to come in the rear suspension console. Specifically the typical firewall to rear suspension ear. I am debating how exactly I am going to do my engine bar at this point, so I want to make sure everything is as strong as possible.

[Mike Bellis]

I think you will end up cutting out the battery tray. There is very little room once you get everything bolted on. My turbo is smaller than yours... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

[Andyrew]

My manifold is more compact (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Ill test mount it after I cut the firewall and see.

[Mike Bellis]

My manifold is more compact (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Ill test mount it after I cut the firewall and see.

I'm running the smallest T3 manifold I could find. Ended up being the cheapest too.

[Andyrew]

It fits just fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) in fact the manifold is about an inch away from the head so itll suck in more.





Also I got my water to air intercooler. Big hunking thing, a full 20lbs.

[Mike Bellis]

It fits just fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) in fact the manifold is about an inch away from the head so itll suck in more.





Also I got my water to air intercooler. Big hunking thing, a full 20lbs.

That turbo sites nice and low! More pics please...

[Andyrew]

Overnight Parts from Japan! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) left is radiator tank for the water injecton (might not use this), middle is gold foil heat shielding, and right is turbo blanket.


YZ85 radiator. Should make a nice water to air intercooler radiator. Shown in the dr side fenderwell.


Electronic boost controller. Best on the market for features. Used this one many times.


Davies Craig EWP130 water pump with LCD controller. Really happy about this one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Andyrew]

I did a thing... welded in a reinforcement to the shock towers prior to making the cut. Im going to cover the hole in ribbed 16ga steel. But before I do that ill box in a reinforcement to the shock tower from the rear long and seam weld all the joints for strength.

Not pictured but I got the injectors back from cleaning. Apparently they are 1300cc injectors not 1000cc, so lots of headroom for e85, should keep the injectors nice and efficient.

[Justinp71]

Looking Good! What turbo are you running?

[Andyrew]

Justin,

Comp Turbo triple ball bearing CTB5356 About the size of a GT3071R.

[Andyrew]

Progress from this weekend.


Triangulated the rear shock tower against the frame with 14ga steel. Also seam welded the frame to shock tower joint (not pictured).


Reinforced the suspension ear with a Tangerine Racing reinforcement kit, and then my sheet of 14ga for mounting the brace to.


Engine with turbo mounted. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



Brace mounted to the firewall and suspension ear. You can see the turbo mounted (Bolted in all the way). Plenty of room! This is with the engine in place. I didnt mount it up because I wasnt happy with the height of the engine/trani. I move the front of the engine up 3/4" and the rear of the trani up 1 1/2". I'll get that in place this week and hopefully that will be where I want it to sit.

[Andyrew]

Progress from this extended weekend. There wont be any more progress until after christmas and maybe not even this year.. But I hope I can put a couple more hours in and finally mount the engine in place.


This may seem overkill but this seemed to be the most solid way to mount this. Instead of coming off the engine bar I made that goes under the engine I decided to come off the front of the motor mount. I am currently debading if I want to cut off the crossmember alltogether to save 4lbs, but I am leaning towards no.


Great pic showing the relationship to the mounts. You can see 4 really easy to get to bolts and the front is out.



Put the shift linkage on the test trani (Audi a4 1.8t fwd) only difference was I had to remove about 1/4" from a bolt mount to match the other trani.



And then came the issue I was not expecting. My shift linkage was touching the trans mount. This is without the cable being attached to the linkage which adds 3/4"... At this point I wasnt sure how to proceed.

[Andyrew]

You can see its pretty much touching. You can also see in this the bar mounted to the trans mount. Its currently facing right but it will be facing forward and joined to the two pipes you can see jutting out from the trans.

So what to do?




Well move the mount over of course! This took longer than I had anticipated... the spot welds were a PITA and I broke my spot weld remover as well.. (still had 5 bits left too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) )



And finally A really cool temp controller. Tested on the bench and it works great. Audible relay click when it hits the set temp, and there is a 2 deg buffer. Its got provisions for keeping the temp both hot and cold which is really cool! With all these screens I have I am debating the "stockish" dash display I have. I have an idea that could work well for hiding these.

[76-914]

Incorporate a hinged face plate onto the dash face that folds up to reveal digi's? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Good to see you working on your build again, Andrew. One thing about fabbing shit up. Be prepared to do, re-do and then re-do again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[Andyrew]

Yup a hinged face trim on the pass side is my first idea. Second is a magnetic or snap in trim that I can remove/install. I dont have a glove box figured in my install but I could make it a large glove box that hinges or slides down.

[76-914]

Yup a hinged face trim on the pass side is my first idea. Second is a magnetic or snap in trim that I can remove/install. I dont have a glove box figured in my install but I could make it a large glove box that hinges or slides down.

HF has some small (appx 8mm rd. x 2mm) rare earth magnets for < $5.

[Andyrew]

Yup. Thought about putting that behind the fiberglass trim. I would be worried about noise/vibration though.
It also doesnt allow me to quickly check the displays so Im leaning towards hinged.

[Andyrew]

Quick present recap. Amazon wish lists are awesome (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



From left to right.

6" sub, Water injection pump, 1000w Amp, 5.5" speakers, Valve train bits, Amp volume controller, "8ga" amp install kit, Tubing flare, Tubing bender, Media button, Tweeters, 914mug/stickers, Flexible ruler.


The only thing left for my Stereo is the actual tablet. But I'll wait till it gets closer for that. I can run my phone till I get something that will work for a long time.