Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[paroxysm]

Not trying to hijack your thread

It looks very similar to my build, but for my rear tranny mount I just built an adapter.
I certainly need to upgrade my shifter assembly to be more rugged like yours mine was just some spare VW mk3 parts I had laying around.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i106.photobucket.com-1888-1451791151.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i106.photobucket.com-1888-1451791151.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i106.photobucket.com-1888-1451791151.3.jpg)
I hope to just finish this car enough to drive the bugs out of it this year. Anyone know if I can drive on a base stage 3 big turbo tune? Or should I try and dyno tune this thing without any of the bugs worked out?

[Andyrew]

Awesome!

Do you have an active build thread on here? If not you should really make one, your build looks interesting! I think you have your engine about 2" forward of mine, do you have any cv issues and what cvs are you using?

What turbo are you using and what turbo is your stage 3 file for? I ran my turbo on my apr stage 3 file(made for a gr28rs) and didnt have any issues at 10psi but I was getting stuttering above that. You can get it tuned by some online tuners that give you a base tune and then fine tune it from logs you run.

[paroxysm]

Awesome!

Do you have an active build thread on here? If not you should really make one, your build looks interesting! I think you have your engine about 2" forward of mine, do you have any cv issues and what cvs are you using?

What turbo are you using and what turbo is your stage 3 file for? I ran my turbo on my apr stage 3 file(made for a gr28rs) and didnt have any issues at 10psi but I was getting stuttering above that. You can get it tuned by some online tuners that give you a base tune and then fine tune it from logs you run.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...0stuka&st=0
This should be my build thread.
The turbo is a gt28rs, my program is revo stage 3 for the turbo. My motor is an AWW 2001 with only 7000 kilometers on it, I paid $1200 for it.
The motor came with a electronic boost controller(not hooked up yet), walboro fuel pump, wideband O2 sensor, genesis 500cc fuel injectors, all new never used.
Now for the CV passenger side is a stock 911 with a empty CV case from a passat B5 used as a spacer, drivers side is a bmw 540i that was the correct length. Don't know how long they last but I had to go cheap for now and that setup only cost $10.
Only problem I've been experiencing is sometimes the car refuses to shut off, place the key in the off position car tries to shut down but then it revs up and continues running, also if I put the car in reverse with the ignition off the backup lights are on.

[Andyrew]

Ill continue this post on your thread (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Justinp71]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Andyrew]

Separated the engine from the trans last night and removed the intake and cylinder head







It appears as if the valves have been in contact with the pistons, you can see the mark on the piston in the center and 4 small nicks on the corners (think a square)


The engine builders are telling me to grind off the nicks and use the pistons but the valves need to be gone through.

Im going to take the cams off and do a leakdown on the valves then determine how much valvework I want to do. I have a line on titanium valves and springs that will help me push up the rev limiter to 9k but the turbo will die off after 8k(unless I put a larger exhaust housing on it..)

Trying to keep my engine work under 1500, but I am not sure if I will make it.

[Andyrew]

Finalized the disassembly of the engine and dropped off the engine at the engine shop.



Work to be done by the engine shop:
Clean block/head
Surface block/head
Hone cylinders
Install H beam rods on factory forged pistons
Balance Rotating assembly
Polish crank

Should be done in about 2-3 weeks. I will assemble the engine at that point.



Also BIG thanks to Mike Bellis for stopping by today and dropping off these MUCH NEEDED 100mm stub axles!

[Dion]

Andrew, wow! Just wow. Impressive project. Keep going, baby.
Having seen what goes into bodywork in person with 914Daves project,
I've a new appreciation for anyone who tackles bodywork that doesn't do it for a living
and does it properly. Very nice.

[Andyrew]

Progress:


Mounted my intercooler and one of my tanks.

Machine shop kicked it up a notch and pushed the engine assembly out in a week!



Got it back today and everything looks so clean! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Andyrew]

More of all the bits.




Removed the valves and cleaned up all the carbon deposits the hot tank didnt take off.



Removed the casting marks from the exhaust side, I'll hit the intake side this weekend.


Mmm looks so nice!

[Andyrew]

All the casting marks are removed from both intake/exhaust side (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Not sure it'll do anything but its at least a step forward on the head build. In a couple years when I build a full stroker motor I'll do a full blown port + polish head.

My Supertech high spring pressure valves and nitrite coated exhaust valves came in! However I had one hickup. I picked up this set new in bag from a Audi community member, apparently it had swapped hands quite a bit and the original owner back in ~08-09 was going to put it in his race car 914 1.8T swap! I have a feeling it was the white race car that was in Excellence mag.

I lapped all the valves just for safety and everything seemed just perfect. Then I replaced all the valve guide seals and started to install all the valve springs.

So onto the valve spring hiccup. I went to install all the springs (If you've done this on an OHV head you'll notice the TINY amount of room on the intake valves... This task took me hours.... Ugh, tiniest of screwdrivers and ~ 1/4" room to work in at a severe angle) and when I got to the exhaust side I noticed that one of the exhaust inner springs was sitting a bit taller than the rest, took it out and I think the manufacturer packaged it wrong and put an intake spring instead of an exhaust inner spring (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif).



Quick email to Supertech and after $12 for the spring and shipping I had it the next day! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)



Finalized the install on the valves and springs and went to put in the stock hydraulic lifters but noticed that a few of the lifters wouldnt spring very well even though they had been sitting for a week. I let them sit in some ATF to try and loosen them but no luck. So a quick youtube search lead me here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySf0r8GGMOY

So I went and disassembled all my problem lifters and any I thought were not perfect, Labeled them in a bag per lifter hole and let them soak for 6 hours in some Purple Power.



After 6 hours the lifters themselves were very clean and I could see gunk floating at the top of the bags. Cleaned everything up and lubed them with some ATF and sunk them back in the holes they are for.

[Andyrew]

Oh and the tool I made for the valve guide seals.

[dan10101]

Oh and the tool I made for the valve guide seals.

I love to make tools from tools, tools into parts, parts into tools and of course, parts into parts.

Hey, make sure you didn't swap springs with another cylinder. I'm sure you checked, but that's what I would have done...

[Andyrew]

All the springs were new high strength, intake and exhaust, so no worries there (That said I still have them in line in a box).

I looked up a couple of valve guide seal removers and couldnt find what I wanted so this seemed like the best idea. Which was good because I really didnt have a lot of room to work with. Tape was there to prevent marring of the lifter walls.

[Andyrew]

Finished up the cylinder head with new cam seals, a new cam chain timed correctly, new cam chain tensioner gaskets and new bolts torqued down the exhaust cam gear and intake cam. Didnt have any means of holding the cam in place so I used the old timing belt and screwed it down to the bench.



Im still waiting for my rings to show up from Germany (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) or else the engine would have been assembled this weekend. In the mean time I took some time and plastiguaged the crank bearings, all came to be the exact same on the far side of the spec .038 which I think should help keep the bearings lubed up for the high RPM's and HP this motor will see.

Also I should note this engine will be receiving coated crank and rod bearings which will also help maintain the bottom end.



Threw in the oil pump drive with new seals.

I have the oil pump itself cleaning in some purple power for all of today and tomorrow. I'll put it back together and check the service limit of the pump before I throw it back on the engine.

[veekry9]

I am liking the longitudinal four layout,traditional with an F1 sting ('80's).
Still considering a version of my own starring the 944's S2,that I may get started on in a few years*.
I am watching closely,knowing a stretch is needed for the big four,being so long.
Have you any idea how many successful installs have been done?
I had a look around and could find no reference to the type.
You're gonna have a screamer,sounding like a champ car running the Drake and Offys..hmmm,methanol injection.
Found one,a Honda S2000 I think,I'll look some more.
I recall a thread about engine swap types,haven't found it though.

As you're working on a new dash and console,a quick perusal of the work Amida is doing should generate some ideas.
The methods he uses are straightforward and effective,beautiful.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000091-50.html

Good for wiring diagrams,pcbs,chassis layouts,etc.
http://www.gimp.org/

[Chris H.]

Looking good! That's a lot of progress. Nice thing is you won't have to worry that anything is wrong with it internally when you BOOOOOSSSTTT it.

Have to agree the inline 4 is such a smooth, balanced engine. Every time I get in my DD (old) TSX I think...hmmmm.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) .... 2.4L, 200 ish hp... Am I the only one who looks at random cars on the road and assesses it's potential as a donor?

[rick 918-S]

Nice! Power on!

[Andyrew]

I agree certain inline 4's are really well balanced. I was suprized when I picked up the rotating assembly, they only took a tiny amount off the crank and added a small weld to the harmonic balancer. I didnt notice anything done to the piston assemblys either, but I had already weighed the rods to be exactly the same, didnt know about the pistons but they are generally pretty light.

[Andyrew]

Got some wrinkle black paint on the valve cover and some black paint on the block last week (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



Got the rings Friday!



I spent some time and gapped them Friday evening.







#4 is not shown, it is the same as #3. My goal was .019in top ring, .020 ring bottom ring and the oil ring was fine with any gap (Shown is in MM). The bottom ring needed to be .001in wider gap than the top. The top will expand with heat and similar builds have put .018in for the top ring, but since I am going to use water/meth on my higher boost 91 file and E85 for my max boost file, the cylinder temps should be relatively low. and therefore wont need so excessive gap differences.