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> Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall!
Andyrew
post Feb 8 2016, 03:32 PM
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I also cleaned and started installing the crankshaft bearings caps. However when torquing the stretch bolts I had a very bad sound coming from the 3rd bolt I started stretching. The consensus so far is that I did not lube the heads of the bolts and it was binding on the bearing, also I had to much oil on the bolt itself and the oil was creating a physical barrier to stop the bolt from turning. I will be removing the bolts that I havent stretched yet, blow out the holes and reinstall the bolts. I will do this tonight when I get home..

Also, parts parts parts parts...
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Andyrew
post Feb 8 2016, 03:32 PM
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Valve cover


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dan10101
post Feb 8 2016, 08:07 PM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Feb 8 2016, 01:32 PM) *

Valve cover


Did you see the Audi commercial where the old Astronaut was bored and depressed until his son took him out for a ride in his new Audi?

It's not like I'm hinting or anything.
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Andyrew
post Feb 8 2016, 10:14 PM
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Your welcome to the keys for as long as you want (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Andyrew
post Feb 11 2016, 02:56 PM
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Since I am not likely to post any progress from this weekend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) I'll post the current progress today.

I finished the installation of the crank without a hitch. I cleaned up the piston ring groves since they were not cleaned properly from the machine shop. Also removing the caps on the rods was a PITA! I installed the rods/pistons and crank 100% with assembly lube and dipped the piston rings in oil.
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I also put the cylinder head on with new stretch bolts and lightly lubed the bolts and bolt heads with assembly lube. No issues on install of those (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Finally I installed the intake manifold. I am however missing a couple of nuts for the ends of the intake manifold so I need to grab some.
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I tried installing my manual timing belt tensioner, but my grade 8.8 M6 bolts were stretching as I tried tightening them down to 20lb. Im going to go to the bolt store Friday to see if they have any grade 10.9 bolts and maybe those nuts I need.

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So I opened up and modified my water pump so it wont be a resistance for my electric water pump. I think it was the easiest option, maybe some day down the road I'll weld up a custom fitting but this wasnt in the cards at this point.



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Andyrew
post Feb 24 2016, 09:07 AM
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Progress has been slow due to the holiday and I was away all last weekend for a guys weekend. Hopefully I can spend some time this weekend on it.

I bought some new M6 grade 8.8 bolts for the tensioner as I couldnt get any 10.9. Installed the tensioner and tried adjusting and noticed it wasnt tightening..... Apparently this is a common issue for this aftermarket $150 tensioner... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) The manufacturer has yet to comment on my warranty claim.

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However I figured out how to make their $150 kit with the factory components, which makes me pretty angry. Its solid metal so I can tighten it down as many times as I want...
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After this I tried turning the engine all the way around and it came to a hard stop. I checked all the valves and engine position and didnt find anything in the way. After a couple days of research I found out the problem was related to the oil pump shaft. The gear at the end of the shaft is near cylinder 4, my performance rods aparently require the gear to be clearanced 6mm or they hit.
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I have the shaft at the machine shop, they are machining it down and are going to balance the shaft when they are done (the shaft apparently is very unbalanced from the factory). It wont be lightened and polished like this one, but at least itll be balanced.
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Andyrew
post Feb 24 2016, 09:16 AM
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And some more small updates. I didnt have a crank lock so I built one for the front and rear of the crank. Rear for the crank gear (not pictures) and front for the flywheel/clutch.
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And I threw on the injectors/fuel rail/regulator.
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post Feb 24 2016, 09:55 AM
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Great progress!
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Andyrew
post Mar 1 2016, 04:10 PM
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Final update for February.

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Got my oil pump shaft back and installed it in the engine. The guys mentioned that it was extremely out of balance, makes me feel really good that I got it balanced (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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Removed the axle flanges and installed the new 100mm axle flanges with new C clips and flange seals (Oh and old crank bolts worked really well to thread through the 108mm flanges to pry against the trans and work the flange out). I had to use a hammer and dowel to drive the flanges in place, but they are in now and seem to be OK. If something happens then oh well, luckily these are all readily available parts so no real worries.

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Mounted the engine to the trans, I didnt have the upper dust cover so I just shimmed the engine to the trans with a washer and moved the oil pan accordingly (according to the manual) since the trans has 3 bolts on the bottom that go to the pan. Took 3 trips to Home depot to get some bolts... All grade 10.9 vs the stock 8.8 which is nice. All torqued to 45ft lbs on the motor and 35ftlbs on the trans.
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914forme
post Mar 1 2016, 07:39 PM
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Making great progress here!
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Justinp71
post Mar 2 2016, 02:23 PM
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Looking Good!
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Andyrew
post Mar 8 2016, 03:24 PM
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Test fit the engine with the trans/flanges so I could test fit other components for fitment.

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Turbo outlet and DV pipe test fit. Great clearance (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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2' of aluminum pipe will be great here. I'll weld in the blow throught MAF fitting on this pipe.

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3" cone filter will work here for now. It will be located in the Pass fender after 3 month test period.

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But the big news is the super locally available bus axles will work right now of the box (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I let the wheel hang and I still had ~1 1/2 total play in the axle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) So if I blow an axle I should be able to go to any NAPA and get a replacement.
Remember this is 100mm trans flange, Bus 100mm axles w/ stock 18 3/4" clip to clip length and renegade hybrids 100mm flange adapters on the stub axle to the stock 914 axle. This leaves me with two spare adapters (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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I can also help this with a grease fitting spacer or maybe my ABS rings that I am going to build later in the future.


Been buying misc bits and pieces I find I am needing. I should be 100% on fuel fittings and lines now. AN stuff is expensive especially when you have to deal with E85... I think I have ~ 400 just in fuel lines/filters/fittings..
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matthepcat
post Mar 8 2016, 04:58 PM
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Nice work. This thread is nearing the fun stage for us observing...where cool noises happen.
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Mueller
post Mar 8 2016, 05:02 PM
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Great progress....looks good in there!
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post Mar 8 2016, 05:30 PM
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Andyrew
post Mar 8 2016, 05:50 PM
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Cool noises coming probably in 2 months (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Exhaust parts on order (Stainless 3").

If I want I can 2step and antilag this engine with my tuner (ECU is currently in my tuners hands for a base tune, We will finalize the tune over the internet with logs)... But I like this turbo and I'd rather not destroy it yet.

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914forme
post Mar 8 2016, 08:23 PM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Mar 8 2016, 06:50 PM) *

If I want I can 2step and antilag this engine with my tuner (ECU is currently in my tuners hands for a base tune, We will finalize the tune over the internet with logs)... But I like this turbo and I'd rather not destroy it yet.


Who are you using to tune?
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dan10101
post Mar 8 2016, 08:45 PM
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It's getting exciting. 2 months for exhaust? Do you have an interim exhaust solution? In time for WCR?
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Andyrew
post Mar 8 2016, 10:39 PM
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2 months till running. Ill probably do the exhaust in 2 weeks once I get all the parts.


Tuning is by Vagautoworks which is a very famous VAG tuner named Daz Dillenger. The tune itself is 400 for the pump gas tune, he will code out all the faults and will work with me until the tune is 110%.


What I have left to do prior to starting the car:
1. Finish intake plumbing
2. Finish exhaust
3. Finish oil cooler install and turbo plumbing
4. Mount fuel pumps and run all lines
5. Mount water pump and wire in.
6. Weld new outlets to radiator
7. Mount expansion tank and plumb radiator, coolant turbo, and oil cooler lines.
8. Wire the whole car.
9. Install boost controller
10. Add fluids and do pre systems check.


After the engine is running ill need to do the following.
1. Mount intercooler radiator and fan
2. Mount intercooler pump and run lines, wire in pump controller
3. Weld in trunk firewall
4. Burnout.


You know.. 2 months worth...
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Mike Bellis
post Mar 8 2016, 11:05 PM
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You better take the rest of the month off from work so you can get busy!
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