Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[Andyrew]

Truth be told this is all just me delaying getting back into the electronics (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) ... The wiring is really whats going to hold me back from getting the car running. I know about 50% of the critical electrical components and I cant read the factory manuals so I really have no idea what to do next... Im slowly working through it though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

Manual is in German? What year? I'll look around for you.

I have the full (Were talking FULL) workshop manual. Problem is they look like this.

The body harness is a 2001 S4, the engine/dash is a 2001 A4 AWM engine.


Intercooler will have a fan, and probably a shroud in the future. I'll control the fan with the temp controller I posted a couple pages ago.


I think I am going to get a Steel flange for my MAP sensor. Then I can weld up the pipe no problem... Avoid all this aluminum BS.

[jimkelly]

if anyone NEEDS a TIG its andyrew. especially for aluminum, and steel. wish i lived nearby, i'd love to observe his activities while drinking beer and eating jujyfruits (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Chris H.]

I have the full (Were talking FULL) workshop manual. Problem is they look like this.

The body harness is a 2001 S4, the engine/dash is a 2001 A4 AWM engine.

Oh Lord...that's painful man. I'll see if I can find anything. Somehow my browser seems to be tuned to locate obscure manuals or supplemental materials. It's a gift (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) .

[dan10101]

Did you see this?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.p...rness-Explained

[Andyrew]

Yup. Its incorrect (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Andyrew]

At this point my biggest concern is in regarding how the starter, alternator and battery wire up. They are my most difficult to pinpoint items. I would imagine it would be obvious, but its really not.

I'll figure out the engine itself when I physically throw the harness in.


In reality I am saving wiring for last and just doing the other stuff I HAVE to do until I run out and then I'll tackle the wiring till its good and done.

[76-914]

I would work on wiring till I looked like this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) . I found medication and cursing soothed my brain but did little to complete the task. I would work on anything except wiring until the guilt set in at which time I would attack it once again. This cycle repeated itself at least 15 times before I worked my way thru it. Have fun and try to stay sane. Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[JRust]

I'd consider relocating that fuel pump. Or at least add some rubber to dampen the sound. Right by your head you are going to hear that pump. Maybe it won't be heard over your killer motor setup though. I guess you get to try it & find out. I can hear mine which is down low on the firewall & behind the passenger seat. Maybe my Walpro is just loud (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Andyrew]

I'd consider relocating that fuel pump. Or at least add some rubber to dampen the sound. Right by your head you are going to hear that pump. Maybe it won't be heard over your killer motor setup though. I guess you get to try it & find out. I can hear mine which is down low on the firewall & behind the passenger seat. Maybe my Walpro is just loud (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

The pump inside the surge tank should basically be unheard. I do plan on adding some rubber isolators at some point. Just dont have any at this point.

The 044 is a pretty quiet powerhouse anyways. What I will likely hear is the carb fuel pump that will prime the 044.

For right NOW Im going to leave it but yes at some point noise isolation will be extremely important as I finalize the interior and try to maximize the proper sound.


Small update for tonight. My belt and plugs came in. Belt fits great! So I'll grab a spare to keep in the car. I have 2 spare plugs to keep in the car. They are copper core so I'll probably change them out every oil change, but it'll have a stronger spark with them.

Belt is a 5 rib 37" 5PK940, but anywhere from 36.5 to 37.5 should work. But it should be an over the counter belt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[Chris H.]

I would work on wiring till I looked like this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) . I found medication and cursing soothed my brain but did little to complete the task. I would work on anything except wiring until the guilt set in at which time I would attack it once again. This cycle repeated itself at least 15 times before I worked my way thru it. Have fun and try to stay sane. Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Dude...you have to look at those Audi wiring diagrams. They'll make you want to break stuff. Still haven't found anyone who has transcribed them with pics and stuff. Wonder if the Passat has a fairly similar layout. Probably more swaps on those.

[Mike Bellis]

The electrical diagrams look simple to me... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
I actually overlaid striped color lines on the wires to make it easy to read.

My ECU did crazy stuff on copper plugs so 034 switched them out to get rid of the misfire.

[76-914]

He'll get it after he spends a couple of hours staring at those charts. I was stuck on the "old time" ones then came the "flow charts" which I cussed (remember I'm a plumber not an electrician) for the first few hours but came to appreciate later. Next was the Suby charts which appear similar to yours. What is "K"? Is that your ECU? Didn't see it in the legend. BTW, why are you even futzing over the elec? Doesn't Bellis live close to you? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Andyrew]

Made a list of stuff I need to do quickly.. did some work today but Ill post that later.



Finish fuel lines and install pre pump and filters -4hr
Silicone coupler plugs install and map sensor - 3hr
Pre oil turbo, tighten drain, add oil, Tighten oil lines.- 1hr
Finish radiator lines - 2hr
Plumb intercooler -1hr
Plumb intercooler coolant hoses -1hr
Finish clutch line install - 1hr
Install sensors on pedal assembly - 3hr
Install knock sensors - .5hr
Mount shifter - 1hr
Install wiring harnesses - 15hr
Wire starter and Battery 5hr
Wire fuel pump - 2hr
Wire radiator pump and fans 2hr
Test fuel system for leaks 2hr
Test cooling system for leaks 2hr

Total time left minimum: 45.5hrs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[Andyrew]

So the progress from this past weekend..

I was not a fan of how tight the coolant lines were going to be coming from the radiator to the water pump. So... I made this drop. This will also support the water pump when the radiator line is clamped under the body. Happy with the turnout on this. Stainless steel is so nice to work with I should have started sooner for this type of stuff. At some point I believe I will make all the lines and just have random sections of hose just for joiners.



Finished welding up the exhaust, I had originally thought I was going to pull the motor but it doesnt look like it will be necessary, nor feasible prior to WCR. I welded the portion near the engine from the inside. Shouldnt have any leaks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



I spent almost 4 hours finishing the exhaust manifold bolts, my back still hurts. I had to make 2 more wrenches to get it as tight as I wanted. This was NOT easy. A swivel doesnt fit in most of the center 6 and you cant get a wrench or even a bent wrench in some of them. I welded a ground down 12mm to a wrench, bent it to fit, and bent a 12mm wrench for the others that that didnt work for. Also there is one that is directly behind the collector that is extremely difficult to start. I put some grease on my ratcheting wrench, put the copper nut on it and turned it one click at a time on my finger till it was on and then repositioned the wrench and was able to actually get a good 1/8 of a turn



I ran the lines for the shifter after making some (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) I'll weld some supports back in as some of it wasnt necessary. But you can see where the lines go through here. I need to fab up a mount for the shifter and then tighten up the rods on the trans side.



Did some more work to the radiator plumbing, working on this and that but its not worth a pic until its done. After the exhaust manifold I put the heat shield back on.

I started plumbing the radiator lines to the radiator and cut some pieces. I might have to weld some pipes for this as well to prevent kinks in the lines but I am running low on 1 1/4" SS pipe only a couple feet left, but should be enough to get what I need to get done, done.

I put my fuel line in place to start the mounting process but either I am missing a AN10 coupler or I missordered. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
New one (red (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) ) coming from LA.

[Mike Bellis]

Great progress.

I installed my exhaust manifold with the motor out of the car. There is no way I can remove it without removing the engine. I also pinned the nuts with a punch so there is no way they can come loose.

[Andyrew]

Gotcha. I got the large nuts on there hoping it helps. I had the nuts back out after about 20k miles but it was obvious when it happened.

Ill keep my special tools in the tool bag so I can tighten them on the road if it backs out. They are literally as tight as I can get them. The ones I could get my impact on are not coming off.

[Andyrew]

While I was waiting for the below welding to cool I pulled the steering column and tried to figure out why it kept binding up on me... well the bolt that was supplimental holding the piece on the shaft that alides in and out for telescoping was hitting. I ground down the bold (its welded in anyways) and then found that the outside of the knuckle was hitting as well. I ground down the knuckle that wasnt structural and then ground the inside of the below to fit.And guess what, no binding and a smooth steering column. Yay!!! I was worried about that one.

Ill tighten it up and try it on the ground. If I dont like it ill scrap it and try again. Not screwing around with my steering column...



So the welding I was speaking about..


I worked on the clutch master. Pictures explain it pretty good. I am moving the pivot about 60 degrees so the master cylinder stays in the cabin. This will require cutting the tunnel a bit but ill reinforce it when I am done.
Rough position of final below. Ill probably weld the bolt on and use two nuts locked together with about 1/32 of play for free movement. But this works for testing.




Note this is only a temporary pedal box. Permanent will be much different.

[Andyrew]

Illness has prevented me from making much progress over this extremely important weekend.. I had all day saturday, but had to cut it short after a couple of hours.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

And now with me laid up yesterday I am behind even further at work so any possible time I was going to spend on the 914 at night is now being spent on work related items to try and catch me up there... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

So its very very likely that this car will not make it to WCR. I only have about 3 total weeks left of time I can spend working on the car and only 2 total weekends.



So I was able to make a little progress.. I welded in the clutch slave cylinder mounting brackets and installed the AN lines.





Buuut, the master cylinder is leaking where the pressure fitting is. The seal inside the master cylinder must have shriveled up as the trans side doesnt leak.

I have an OEM master cylinder coming, so hopefully all the leaks will be fixed with that.


Speaking of leaks... Decided I hate aluminum... Bought a steel flange for the MAF and welded it up with some of my spare muffler tubing. Added a bend in it to make it a bit easier for install. Overall it fits really well.

[76-914]

Andrew, will the MC be inside the cabin with the next pedal reiteration?

[Andyrew]

Most likely not. Ill probably use some sort of tilton pedals or similar floor mounted and put the MC behind them.