Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[Mike Bellis]

I had to open the dash cluster and de-solder the buzzer. Otherwise it will keep beeping 3 times over and over...

The starter relay is interrupted by the clutch switch and central locking. Just remove the central locking interrupt wire/ bypass it. And if the clutch is not pushed in, it won't start.

I removed both of these and have the key control the starter relay directly. very easy to do.

[r_towle]

When you figure all of this out, will you do my 4.2 conversion?

[Andyrew]

I had to open the dash cluster and de-solder the buzzer. Otherwise it will keep beeping 3 times over and over...

The starter relay is interrupted by the clutch switch and central locking. Just remove the central locking interrupt wire/ bypass it. And if the clutch is not pushed in, it won't start.

I removed both of these and have the key control the starter relay directly. very easy to do.

I may have to kill the buzzer, but my tuner said he would tune that out... Hopefully the new guy can.

Starter has been taken care of. I grounded the central locking wire and the engine cranks over with the key (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Next on the list is the fuel pump wiring, throw fuel in and fix what is likely a very leaky system. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Andyrew]

When you figure all of this out, will you do my 4.2 conversion?

Wiring would probably be similar, but no.. I have probably 3-500 hours into this conversion so far, and a good 50 of it in wiring alone with what is likely another 20 to go before the chassis is all wired.


In the future if this conversion gets popular I might entertain making kits or doing all the wiring mods, but its so much custom stuff it just doesnt make sense. You pretty much have to just fabricate everything.

[Andyrew]

Ill fill in details later. Still issues, but this did happen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSrB9kXreM4

[Chris H.]

Congrats! That's a big payoff moment for hours of tracing wires, cross-referencing diagrams, fabricating, welding, etc, etc. Nice work.

[914forme]

Huge step, congratulations (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[mgp4591]

Hell yeah! Congratulations! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Mueller]

Sounds good, I like!

[Mike Bellis]

Awesome! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Now all you need to do is finish... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[dan10101]

I like the tune it plays wish I could have been there to hear it. But, I'd rather have it happen without me than not happen with me.

Is is it loud, 11 of 10 or 9 of 10?
I like it either way!

[Andyrew]

Its louder than I expected. Its basically 3" straight pipe..

I dont think the mufflers do much at all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I might need to put a chambered muffler in there somewhere. Cruising on the freeway may be a bit.. loud.

[76-914]

Ill fill in details later. Still issues, but this did happen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSrB9kXreM4

Congrats Andrew. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) We need a Gene Wilder avatar that screams "It's alive". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[matthepcat]

You might try some exhaust inserts. I used a brand called "car chemistry" on my old V8 and was able to reduce some drone. Not sure on a turbo car though.

Sounds great

Its louder than I expected. Its basically 3" straight pipe..

I dont think the mufflers do much at all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I might need to put a chambered muffler in there somewhere. Cruising on the freeway may be a bit.. loud.

[Andyrew]

Not much progress over the weekend, Worked on wiring a couple things and figuring out some other things. I dont want to start the car again until I am ready to put some load on the rings. I think I figured out why my 02 sensor and MAF sensor are not reading, I dont think they are getting 12v. I found out that wiring and will force them to get 12v with a keyed trigger.

I do know that the oil pan as well as I assume the front main seal or oil shaft seal is leaking. Not happy about that because all the seals are new. After I get some break in miles I'll pull the engine, finish off the rear engine shelf, check for other potential issues and clean things up some more.


Matt, thanks for the tip on inserts, That is certainly a good option. Since my exhaust is V banded I could possibly just make a new exhaust with more restrictive muffler. I'll get some sound charts later after some break in.

[Andyrew]

Final June Update:

Finished up a bunch more little things like all the hose clamps I was missing and fixed my fuel leak that developed.

I am still not getting the car running with the MAF connected and I havent gotten a reading from the O2 but I havent forced power to it yet. I am going to try forcing that again before I get it on the road for some fuel correction but that will need to be next month.

I was able to hook up the boost controller and run my vacuum lines to my boost controller, solenoid, DV, and wastegate actuator. I just need to figure out my throttle angle sensor wire and tap into that for my boost controller.



And here is the final engine bay layout. (EDIT: Just noticed the positive wire was hanging down. Put that back up tucked away..)


Stay tuned! In about 2 weeks you'll see it hit the road (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Mueller]

Awesome!

[cali914]

Awesome you will have to get a chamber muffler I had to canister mufflers on mine and had to replace the drone was killing me at 3k rpm on highway.

[Mike Bellis]

You might try some exhaust inserts. I used a brand called "car chemistry" on my old V8 and was able to reduce some drone. Not sure on a turbo car though.

Sounds great

I would be worried about back pressure with these. back pressure is good for a NA motor, not so good for a turbo application.
It may come down to muffler selection. I run a 4" Aero Turbine muffler and I like the sound. Not too much drone.

[Andyrew]

This weekend was the beginning of the end of wiring the engine.

I got the MAF figured out. I had the power and voltage wire mixed up, swapped those around and it is running really well.

I finished wiring up the boost gauge as well as the water pump and fans with a relay.

However...

When I tested the coolant system I think there was either a design flaw with the water pump OR my water pump is not doing its job. I have/had the temp sensor mounted up near the radiator. It was supposed to cycle the pump from key on to move the water to the temp sensor but it was barely moving any water from what I could tell from the lines. I am now thinking that 8' is just to long for it to get to the sensor on a low speed pulsing cycle.

I am relocating the temp sensor on to the back of the engine right off the coolant flange. It takes a 1/4" NPT sensor so I found a galvanized steel NPT adapter and will weld it in so long as it takes a weld well. This way the radiant heat from the block should get to the sensor much quicker and should start actually cycling the water pump at full power, see image below.


I am going to test the system again after moving the sensor and if it ends up the way I like it then I'll wrap up the wiring, drop the car on the ground and take it for a test drive. The oil leak is more of a concern now. I was hoping to put a couple hundred break in miles but I think that it might be dripping oil at a decent rate. It doesnt leak unless the engine is running which helps a bit.


Anyways, stay tuned. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)