Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[76-914]

Ill fill in details later. Still issues, but this did happen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSrB9kXreM4

Congrats Andrew. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) We need a Gene Wilder avatar that screams "It's alive". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[matthepcat]

You might try some exhaust inserts. I used a brand called "car chemistry" on my old V8 and was able to reduce some drone. Not sure on a turbo car though.

Sounds great

Its louder than I expected. Its basically 3" straight pipe..

I dont think the mufflers do much at all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I might need to put a chambered muffler in there somewhere. Cruising on the freeway may be a bit.. loud.

[Andyrew]

Not much progress over the weekend, Worked on wiring a couple things and figuring out some other things. I dont want to start the car again until I am ready to put some load on the rings. I think I figured out why my 02 sensor and MAF sensor are not reading, I dont think they are getting 12v. I found out that wiring and will force them to get 12v with a keyed trigger.

I do know that the oil pan as well as I assume the front main seal or oil shaft seal is leaking. Not happy about that because all the seals are new. After I get some break in miles I'll pull the engine, finish off the rear engine shelf, check for other potential issues and clean things up some more.


Matt, thanks for the tip on inserts, That is certainly a good option. Since my exhaust is V banded I could possibly just make a new exhaust with more restrictive muffler. I'll get some sound charts later after some break in.

[Andyrew]

Final June Update:

Finished up a bunch more little things like all the hose clamps I was missing and fixed my fuel leak that developed.

I am still not getting the car running with the MAF connected and I havent gotten a reading from the O2 but I havent forced power to it yet. I am going to try forcing that again before I get it on the road for some fuel correction but that will need to be next month.

I was able to hook up the boost controller and run my vacuum lines to my boost controller, solenoid, DV, and wastegate actuator. I just need to figure out my throttle angle sensor wire and tap into that for my boost controller.



And here is the final engine bay layout. (EDIT: Just noticed the positive wire was hanging down. Put that back up tucked away..)


Stay tuned! In about 2 weeks you'll see it hit the road (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Mueller]

Awesome!

[cali914]

Awesome you will have to get a chamber muffler I had to canister mufflers on mine and had to replace the drone was killing me at 3k rpm on highway.

[Mike Bellis]

You might try some exhaust inserts. I used a brand called "car chemistry" on my old V8 and was able to reduce some drone. Not sure on a turbo car though.

Sounds great

I would be worried about back pressure with these. back pressure is good for a NA motor, not so good for a turbo application.
It may come down to muffler selection. I run a 4" Aero Turbine muffler and I like the sound. Not too much drone.

[Andyrew]

This weekend was the beginning of the end of wiring the engine.

I got the MAF figured out. I had the power and voltage wire mixed up, swapped those around and it is running really well.

I finished wiring up the boost gauge as well as the water pump and fans with a relay.

However...

When I tested the coolant system I think there was either a design flaw with the water pump OR my water pump is not doing its job. I have/had the temp sensor mounted up near the radiator. It was supposed to cycle the pump from key on to move the water to the temp sensor but it was barely moving any water from what I could tell from the lines. I am now thinking that 8' is just to long for it to get to the sensor on a low speed pulsing cycle.

I am relocating the temp sensor on to the back of the engine right off the coolant flange. It takes a 1/4" NPT sensor so I found a galvanized steel NPT adapter and will weld it in so long as it takes a weld well. This way the radiant heat from the block should get to the sensor much quicker and should start actually cycling the water pump at full power, see image below.


I am going to test the system again after moving the sensor and if it ends up the way I like it then I'll wrap up the wiring, drop the car on the ground and take it for a test drive. The oil leak is more of a concern now. I was hoping to put a couple hundred break in miles but I think that it might be dripping oil at a decent rate. It doesnt leak unless the engine is running which helps a bit.


Anyways, stay tuned. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

Sensor at the engine inlet might be better. Water temp at the engine is more important than at the radiator.

I notice on mine the fans kick on at 180­° but the motor is running 190°. the water might heat back up a little as it returns to the motor due to heat soak in the hose.

[Andyrew]

It'll be at its hottest point right off the back of the engine so thats a plus..

Once I get the damn thing working I'll just pick a temp I dont want it any higher than and go. I was thinking 185* should be good. I had it at 140* just to make sure the system cycles properly. And if I can get it to maintain 140* in my garage on a hot day then it should prove the system pretty efficient.

[Andyrew]

So,

I finished off the radiator system, put the seals on the radiator and buttoned it up. Found a small leak on the turbo feed line and fixed it. Put the wheels back on and checked everything in that regard, backed it out of the driveway and took it for its first spin around the block (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tl_GCoEC9-U


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOCFI15nTfU


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36CBdqYQN-4



I'll be posting a youtube video weekly either as progress of the vehicle or myself driving the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Findings of the first drive:

1. Steering needs to be fixed. Pretty sure the shaft got welded unevenly. I will be buying some new shafts and starting from scratch instead of trying to use mine. It works for now but who knows. You can see me struggling as the knuckle is binding. Everything is exactly in the same layout as factory its just 1/8" off center and I think that is causing the problem.

2. Clutch is on the floor. I will put some spacers behind the slave cylinder to get a bit more action out of the clutch. I'd like it to be an inch off the floor to halfway through the travel. Clutch is however very light and easy to modulate. Probably the reason why its all the way on the floor is I didnt give it enough travel thus making the action much easier. I will also re-bleed it and see if that helps.

3. The engine bar was loose after the run. I tightened it up with some red lock tight, It might not have been snugged down all the way the first time... If it keeps loosening up I might double nut them. I painted a line on the nuts like factory to determine if anything loosens up.

4. I need a smaller wheel and I need the wheel to be removable.

5. The water pump and controller work fantastic. I drove the car around for 5 minutes then let it idle. You can see in the video that it stays pretty cool. I had it set for a higher temp and dropped the controller down down in another video to see what would happen. The water pump turned on constant and the fans kicked on. Shut off the car and both the fans and water pump stayed on for one minute and then shut off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

6. The turbo is not a low RPM turbo. I gave it 1/2 throttle a lot and fed into it a couple times and while the turbo will start spooling around 2500 it doesnt seem to really make much boost until about 3500. Similar to what I remembered, but the heavy weight of the Audi A4 made it hold the RPM's more thus spooling technically faster.

7. 1st gear is going to be a handful even at 10psi... You can see in one of the video's I give it about 3/4 throttle over 4k rpms (I had my hand in the way so I dont know what RPM I shifted..), I am pretty sure the tires spun because the RPM's climbed so quickly. I am really glad I have an 8500rpm redline because I am going to need that in first gear..

8. Its fast. Damn fast. I havent gone full throttle or even reved it out at all, but its going to be a monster.

9. Its F'in LOUD. The blow off valve is very loud and crisp. I know for a fact I cant drive it over 5k in the neighborhood or else I am sure the cops will be called. Im sure you can hear the blow off valve from a mile away. I'm going to have to route the blow off into the intake to quiet it down some.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[76-914]

Good for you, Andrew. I foresee some speeding tickets in your future. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[914bub]

Andrew
If the car will be at any Modesto events, please let us know. I'd love to meet you and see the car. Looking GREAT, I've done several swaps, none were 914 and none so impressive.
Best, Erik

[Andyrew]

Erik,

Your welcome to come by any time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Chris H.]

Sounds really good! It's running VERY cool for the first couple of runs. Never seen that before. Now the tweaking/adjustment period begins. But the basic conversion is DONE (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914forme]

5. The water pump and controller work fantastic. I drove the car around for 5 minutes then let it idle. You can see in the video that it stays pretty cool. I had it set for a higher temp and dropped the controller down down in another video to see what would happen. The water pump turned on constant and the fans kicked on. Shut off the car and both the fans and water pump stayed on for one minute and then shut off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

So nice to hear, sounds like it worked perfectly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[Andyrew]

All the lights now work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
I spent WAY to much time on that... But hey its done!

I did a BUNCH of driving over the weekend and some tonight. Got a few logs in as well for my tuner. Hopefully we start to get to work on my tune soon.

I found out my rev limit right now is set to 7k, I'll have my tuner work on that I really cant wait to hear what it'll sound like over 8k (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Below is a first and 2nd gear casual pull.


It may look at bit slow for you v8 guys but here are my gotcha's.
1. Baseline tune.
2. Only 9-10psi (out of 35...)
3. Breaking in the motor
4. Intercooler is not getting water through it yet, so IAT's are likely very high. Luckly big turbo and big piping with low boost mean its not detonating. Thats the goal for this weekend.
4. OLD gas, Trying to use it up some before I grab some new gas. Remember I will want to tune for E85 at some point which in and of itself has 35% more power potential.

(Apologies for the shaky video. My mount is not as good as I hoped. I'll start using the Gopro)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCwYBv_so_E


Side note, first gear typically rips off the tires, and its a one legger for sure. This car will need LSD and stickier tires for sure. Keep in mind they are relatively new 285's in the back.

Also of note, my front shock is rattling pretty bad I think its a good time for me to go Koni yellows up front instead of the worn out reds.

[914forme]

That car is going to be a beast (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[76-914]

Remember I will want to tune for E85 at some point which in and of itself has 35% more power potential.

Do tell..............

[dan10101]

I'm looking into this too, for my 944 turbo. I found this article that raised some possible issues.

The power potential is certainly there. The article mentions that manufactures of the E85 can vary the amount of ethanol from 51% to 85% which could pose issues. The article talks about doing it for cold starting issues in cold climates. For Andrew, not living in a snow country, they might not go to such extremes. I'm sure there's a way to check this chemically to make sure you don't hurt an engine.

$3 for E85 vs $8 for race gas certainly has it's appeal.

link
http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/04/everyt...-about-ethanol/