Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[Garland]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) runs nice.

[Mike Bellis]

You took the long way to Taco Bell... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Andyrew]

Mid weekend update. NEED SOME ADVICE!


OK, so my tablet Idea was just to far fetched, I cant think of putting a tablet on this dash and it actually looking someone decent due to the size. That being said I am planning on having my phone on the dash to give me the same basic stuff but without the added bulk. That being said here is what were looking at. Am I just ruining the dash with the phone spot being where it is? Should I just have a little magnetic arm to put it on? The covered area gives it sun protection for glare as well as heat and IMHO gives it a more sleek uniformed look.

I'll put details on the build later but looking for anyone to comment on the current left side of the dash idea.

The right side will slope off the left side to be flat and will be separate for ease of installation.





Old pic to show where the phone goes, My work iphone, my regular S5 is bigger .

[Darren C]

Great project Andrew.

As your asking opinions (and everyone has one) mine would be to loose the bulk of all that foam. Great for a truck or bus.... but not a sportscar. Your dash mat a couple of post back looked better!

With the position of your gear lever I'd make a dash that has a pod/binnacle much leaner and similar to the original 914 or a Mazda Miata over your instruments and a sweeping centre console that looks like a Porsche Carrera GT.

http://images.gtcarlot.com/pictures/10017731.jpg

You could combine your i-phone insert in the centre console just below the gear lever in portrait or landscape above the gear lever. Audi TT style grab handles with combined knee pads either side of the i-phone insert (if fitted below the gear lever in portrait) would look real good.

http://justgermanparts.co.uk/ekmps/shops/6...7645-4021-p.jpg

[Andyrew]

Darren,

Thanks for the advice.

This is my original design concept.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-172-1444716948_thumb.jpg)

Center console will remain. The two raised areas around the phone will flow down around the shifter and form the center console starting point.

I also thought about trimming the fat on the left side.

I agree its a bit bulky and truckish, thus my posting for some help. Let me see what I can do from here.

[Darren C]

Great sketch, thats exactly what I had in mind, but incorporating the TT kneepad grab handles for a little Homage to your donor.
Rather than re-inventing the wheel here, have you thought about cutting out the gauge pod/binnacle section of your donor dash and incorporating into your design rather than using the foam?

[Andyrew]

Great sketch, thats exactly what I had in mind, but incorporating the TT kneepad grab handles for a little Homage to your donor.
Rather than re-inventing the wheel here, have you thought about cutting out the gauge pod/binnacle section of your donor dash and incorporating into your design rather than using the foam?

I have no donor dash.

Also the foam is just for me to template with, I will fiberglass the foam when done with the template an remove the inside foam, sand smooth and cover with vinyl.

[veekry9]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


A huge job,one that is complex with many details to do right:
1 ) Attach polyurethane foam to naked dash base.
2 ) Shape,using surform and sandpaper to pleasing result.
3 ) Apply grp to create male 'plug'.
4 ) Attach 'returns' and mount details.
5 ) Finish to high polish,and apply 'release'.
6 ) Apply grp to build female 'mold'.
7 ) Detail and reinforce mold.
8 ) Apply epoxy grp/cf to create dash and console 'skins'.
9 ) Finish sand and built mounts,detail,aircons,defroster,iphone,satnav,stereo,instument cluster,switch panel and more.
10) Make patterns for padding and cladding in leather or synthetic materials.
11) Cut and sew the coverings,then staple,glue and screw over the multi layer foam underlay.
12) Design,fabricate and chrome or polish bezels and trim accents.
13) Install console and gear,ebrake,aircon,and the rest of it.
14) Install the wiring and switchgear with the trim bezels and panels.
15) Start on the doors,ceiling,floor and console.
16) Details that I've missed mentioning,and much more.

Here is the most beautiful custom work,done for mids,of an American origin.
The methods used,and demonstrated here are labor intensive,the results glorious and leather clad.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000091-49.html
So,yeah,a custom interior is a ton of work,easy to get wrong,with crude results.
Sewing and stitching is involved. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
This is nice,even the early dash that I prefer,tho done in the two tone,the console narrow like the 14's.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=porsche+944+...HtQht90OLqLM%3A
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)
/

[Andyrew]

Lots of things going on at once.

It appears my timing belt is off a tooth, not causing any mechanical failures just enought to loose torque and cause a code. Thus my tuner is being a B and telling me to fix it before he does anything. Luckily I think I can do that with the engine in the car comfortably if I jack up the rear and drop the trans to the floor. Should give me great visibility and room.


I started making a shift knob, but alas cant find anyone with a lathe to turn it for me. If anyone here has a lathe and can turn a shift knob let me know!


Finalized what I want to do with the dash. I bumped my dash design up 10 years to give me a smoother sleeker look. It just worked out better for the fit issues I was working with. I think you guys will like it when you see the final product.


Random gas fill up this week (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[76-914]

Lots of things going on at once.

It appears my timing belt is off a tooth, not causing any mechanical failures just enought to loose torque and cause a code. Thus my tuner is being a B and telling me to fix it before he does anything. Luckily I think I can do that with the engine in the car comfortably if I jack up the rear and drop the trans to the floor. Should give me great visibility and room.

Damn it! I hate it when that happens. Only time that happened to me was on an Escort timing belt. It's more difficult to mis-match when dealing with timing chains, IMHO. Looking good kid. Keep it up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Andyrew]

I'll post an update tomorrow, but heres a video of last nights ECU logging. My friend tagged along and took video while I logged.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jk5V1cL0pbk

[Mike Bellis]

Cool video!

[Chris H.]

Did you fix the timing belt already? Hard to believe it was off a tooth when it was running so well. Nice vid. You got those wide tires to spin like a V8! Wait 'til you dial it all the way up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) .

[Andyrew]

Did you fix the timing belt already? Hard to believe it was off a tooth when it was running so well. Nice vid. You got those wide tires to spin like a V8! Wait 'til you dial it all the way up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) .

Timing issue was the wrong timing sensor pick up. Timing was dead on.

Actually I didnt really try to spin the tires... It will 100% light up the tires in first.

[Andyrew]

This past month has been full of a lot of driving. Im trying to get my tune going but Im still facing problems.

Lately it has been a hunting idle that my tuner is sure is a intake leak. I cant however seem to find it and its intermittent not consistent. Other tuners think its a tune issue.

Debating on working with another tuner or to tell my tuner to suck it up and leave the idle the way it is.

I've changed out my coils to a stronger type coil as well as changed out my plugs to plugs my tuner prefers. Also I installed a wideband AFR guage which is giving me a very lean idle reading which I can only imagine is incorrect (Calibrated correctly...)



On another note, I HAVE made some progress on the dash. See below. About 3 nights of fiberglass and 3 nights of bondo/sanding work to get it where I am OK with it.



Im laying out some test pieces of vinyl and will start sewing/gluing it down.

I have some special stuff coming in tomorrow which I am super excited to reveal as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


And for those that like more video's. This is about 11psi in first (You can still hear it spin a bit) 13psi in 2nd and 3rd. I did a couple runs with ~16 just to test it out and it had a tire spinning all through second while pulling pretty hard (Not video'ed). Much faster than the v8 at this boost level I imagine that I will tune the boost for first at 10-11psi, second to ~15psi, and third/4th to about 20psi. 5th will probably be dropped down to about 15psi just for safety, but i'll tune the curve so passing rpm's still build enough boost to not have to have me drop a gear.

Also, I can assure you this vid was only up to the speed limit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyvYJuyYtDI

[914forme]

sounds very good. Your tests runs are done with gearing reduction boxes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

On to the hunt.

Leak, yes very possible, but should also show up, when you apply boost, unless it seals under boost and then, opens under vacuum. Being said, 20 PSI will tend to pop somethings loose, If you have intake pressure tested plugs, I would install it, and run it up in PSI, and see what you get. Should have a noticeable leak, you can also draw vacuum on the test rig, if it holds vacuum and pressure, then no leaky. Pretty easy to see, a little shot of soapy water will clean the engine and tell you when you see bubbles you got a leak. Of course the huge sucking sound under vacuum might be a pointer also.

Beyond that, calibrate your wideband, and make sure it is not truly lean at idle. Your engine might be hunting for a real reason. Tuners are just like anyone else, they can be drawn in via their own biases, and not find the true answer. Or Ego steps in the way, and they do not want to admit their mistakes. Not a big deal, your just going to have to disprove all his issues first. Costing you time and money.

The flip side of the coin is like dealing with any contractor in the tech industry, we all have our opinions, and we are trained by the system to find whats wrong in others work, point it out, then do it our way. The true key is finding the tuner that can see the value in others work, and then add their knowledge to make the final product even better. Good luck with that hunt, these are a rare bird.

[Chris H.]

Timing issue was the wrong timing sensor pick up. Timing was dead on.

Yeah I knew it. It was running way too smooth. And the turbo would amplify the problem. That's an interference engine. They don't tolerate much.

Hunting idle is the WORST. I still have it occasionally. Are you using the stock ECU? If so I would lean towards tune. A sensor needs to be deleted, something like that.

[Andyrew]

Figured out my idle and top end fuel mixture issue...




Going to get new fuel injector seats and o rings, teflon tape the seats and try again.

I should be back on the road by 9/14 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



Also this just came in. I am extremely excited about it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Its my brown vinyl with the factory basketweave (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Mark @914rubber did a great job on this and it looks fantastic! I dont think the impression is lasting enough to use as a seat bottom or back but I'll get a test sample and do a stress test on it. Im going to do the door panels, the dash accent, the center console sides and possibly the seat backing/bottom in it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

The instructions for the billet seats call for red locktite and no tape. I have the hex socket to remove the seats if you need one. Socket comes in the billet kit I bought. I also used larger (thicker) O rings to seal better. I found with the stock O rings, the injector can go to far in and trap the injector and loose the seal. Then you have to fish out the injector and hope the O ring does not pop off in the process. BTW, the O ring will be ruined if this happens...

[Andyrew]

Very interesting. Where did you get the larger O rings?