Windshield install |
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Windshield install |
matteyp |
Feb 23 2011, 09:11 PM
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#1
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Nothing a little JB Weld can't fix... Group: Members Posts: 263 Joined: 8-June 09 From: WA Member No.: 10,450 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Hey guys so I was wondering if I could get some insight on windshield installation. I've read in the lupwalli threads that if u use the black rubber seal you need to paint the edges of the windshield so it doesn't show or something. Is this true? Also do u need to fill in all the clips holes with silicone or something? Do u also still need to use the butyl? Thanks for the info.
Matt |
ConeDodger |
Feb 23 2011, 09:48 PM
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#2
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,852 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
I used the original butyl rubber rope method. You can buy the butyl rope at an autobody supply store. Also get the catalyst which is the 'black' paint you might be referring to. It isn't to hide anything, it makes the windshield stick better.
There are 19 clips that go around the outside edge of the window flange to hold the trim. Buy these new direct from Porsche as they are probably the cheapest source I have found. Let me know if you need more info... Just did it. |
gothspeed |
Feb 24 2011, 07:46 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,539 Joined: 3-February 09 From: SoCal Member No.: 10,019 Region Association: None |
I have the same questions as the OP ............ I am also planning to use the 914 windshield rubber, from our resident rubber guy, it should look badass with my black A-pillar/sail/trim scheme ..... but still looking to find out how it is supposed to be installed ..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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mojorisen914 |
Feb 24 2011, 07:51 AM
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#4
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Visit your local strip club Group: Members Posts: 695 Joined: 9-July 06 From: Denver Colorado Member No.: 6,403 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
The paint you want to use is the Frit paint. Like old Conedodger said it makes the butyl stick better but also hides the butyl from being seen. Same principle as new vehicles with the black band.
If I were you; I would take the old windshield out yourself and make sure there isn't any rust in there and then I would have a windshield company come out and install your new one. I did this and it only cost me about $75 bucks for them to come to my house to do it. They've done it more times than me and I didn't want any problems down the road from a jacked up install (me doing it). Use the search on here for Frit paint. I can't remember who i got mine from on here. |
toon1 |
Feb 24 2011, 09:04 AM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,849 Joined: 29-October 05 From: tracy,ca Member No.: 5,022 |
I also installed my windshield recently.
I used the urathane adhiesive instead of the butyl tape, both work good. I decided on the urathane because it's a glue and they are using on new vehichles. It was kind of tricky to use but worked good. If you are going to go with the urathane, have a pro do it. The Butyl tape is much easier to use. ALSO there are two spacer blocks that go under the widshield,between the frame and the windsield that keep the glass from eventually settling/creeping down onto the body/windshield frame. If you use the black rubber trim like mentioned in the classics thread, you won't need the the blocks or the trim clips |
ConeDodger |
Feb 24 2011, 10:48 AM
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#6
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,852 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
I also installed my windshield recently. I used the urathane adhiesive instead of the butyl tape, both work good. I decided on the urathane because it's a glue and they are using on new vehichles. It was kind of tricky to use but worked good. If you are going to go with the urathane, have a pro do it. The Butyl tape is much easier to use. ALSO there are two spacer blocks that go under the widshield,between the frame and the windsield that keep the glass from eventually settling/creeping down onto the body/windshield frame. If you use the black rubber trim like mentioned in the classics thread, you won't need the the blocks or the trim clips Oh yah!!! Forgot about them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
gothspeed |
Feb 24 2011, 11:28 AM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,539 Joined: 3-February 09 From: SoCal Member No.: 10,019 Region Association: None |
I also installed my windshield recently. I used the urathane adhiesive instead of the butyl tape, both work good. I decided on the urathane because it's a glue and they are using on new vehichles. It was kind of tricky to use but worked good. If you are going to go with the urathane, have a pro do it. The Butyl tape is much easier to use. ALSO there are two spacer blocks that go under the widshield,between the frame and the windsield that keep the glass from eventually settling/creeping down onto the body/windshield frame. If you use the black rubber trim like mentioned in the classics thread, you won't need the the blocks or the trim clips |
Eric_Shea |
Feb 24 2011, 12:53 PM
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#8
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,289 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I installed mine as per the factory manual. It works well if (like everything) you prep well.
One of the things I would recommend if you decide to do it this way is to "dry fit" the windshield before you put the butyl down. Do this with a friend and measure the gaps on each side. You may even want to make up some spacers out of wood (shaved dowels etc.) so each of you have the same gap. When we did mine, my friend Dave and I got to that "oh shit" moment where we had to guess and call out from across the car... "I've got about 1/4" you? Yup same here." "Plop..." into the butyl it went. Luckly, our eyeball measurements were pretty much spot on. Start with a very clean track. You can see some of the last butyl remnents in this shot. All of that was cleaned out with a heavy solvent: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net-1110-1298573634.1.jpg) Another tip. Use new clips. I used a 5mm socket to push them in. Makes it much easier and no wasted. broken clips.: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net-1110-1298573634.2.jpg) Rubber blocks are under the windshield and you can see the new clips on the side: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net-1110-1298573634.3.jpg) Make sure your butyl is the proper thickness. If it's too thick, the trim will sit too high and wont want to snap into the new clips you just installed: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net-1110-1298573635.4.jpg) Hope that helps. |
sawtooth |
Feb 24 2011, 01:12 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 297 Joined: 25-June 08 From: Boise, ID Member No.: 9,211 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
What's the best way to remove the old windshield?
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mepstein |
Feb 24 2011, 01:20 PM
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#10
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,647 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Attached image(s) |
sawtooth |
Feb 24 2011, 01:23 PM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 297 Joined: 25-June 08 From: Boise, ID Member No.: 9,211 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
I figured that was coming... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) but what if it's in great condition and I want to try to save it. Doing a full repaint so I'd like to remove, inspect for rust, paint, then re-install. Is it possible to remove without destroying it?
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mepstein |
Feb 24 2011, 01:31 PM
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#12
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,647 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
There are some threads about removal. They crack easy but I took one out by sitting in the seat and pushing out the windshield with my feet - after I ran a wire around the perimeter to cut the glue.
If it was valuble to you, I would talk to a glass guy or bodyshop. |
sawtooth |
Feb 24 2011, 01:33 PM
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#13
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Member Group: Members Posts: 297 Joined: 25-June 08 From: Boise, ID Member No.: 9,211 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
There are some threads about removal. They crack easy but I took one out by sitting in the seat and pushing out the windshield with my feet - after I ran a wire around the perimeter to cut the glue. If it was valuble to you, I would talk to a glass guy or bodyshop. Good ideas, thanks. |
Root_Werks |
Feb 24 2011, 02:22 PM
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#14
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,506 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
What's the best way to remove the old windshield? Lot's of practice. I've pulled quite a few out sucessfully now. Some really glued in well, others just fell out after the trim was removed. It takes time, warm day will help. Start from the top, work your way down the sides. Do the bottom last. 9/10 times it works for me. Some local guys got to watch me pull one out a few months back. It was really glued in there good, soft buytl. Sucked, but got it out. |
Rex-n-effect |
Feb 24 2011, 02:42 PM
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#15
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 4-February 11 From: Missoula, MT Member No.: 12,659 Region Association: None |
I recently removed mine. I started at the lower right corner. I actually used mechanics wire and routed it through the butyl, wrapped each end around a "leather gloved" hand and started to cut it. It was a slow process and you need to be careful around the clips cause the wire will hang up on them. I would think that a guitar string would work well on this. It crossed my mind after i broke the mech wire twice. Anyway it came out without breaking it.
Rex |
matteyp |
Feb 24 2011, 03:53 PM
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#16
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Nothing a little JB Weld can't fix... Group: Members Posts: 263 Joined: 8-June 09 From: WA Member No.: 10,450 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Ok so if I use the rubber seal do I need to silcone up all the clip holes? If I have this professionally done will they do all that for me or just slap it in there?
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Joe Owensby |
Feb 24 2011, 04:50 PM
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#17
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JoeO Group: Members Posts: 527 Joined: 7-January 06 From: Spartanburg, SC Member No.: 5,385 Region Association: South East States |
Don't use silicone to fill the holes. It creates an area wherever it touches that will not later stick to the windshield adhesive. Just use a dab of bondo or something. Thsn sand and prime it if needed.
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Drums66 |
Feb 24 2011, 05:23 PM
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#18
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914 Rudiments Group: Members Posts: 5,321 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Coronado,Cali Member No.: 151 Region Association: Southwest Region |
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SirAndy |
Feb 24 2011, 05:33 PM
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#19
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,943 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
If you use the black rubber trim like mentioned in the classics thread, you won't need the the blocks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) The blocks are used to position your windshield correctly so it doesn't sit too low. You need those regardless of what trim you use ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) My Windshield install: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...st&p=910188 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-179-1181552583.jpg) |
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