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> BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Another 914-GT Conversion Project, I finally drove it this weekend!
mepstein
post Jul 18 2012, 12:29 PM
Post #21


914-6 GT in waiting
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Nice!
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jkb944t
post Jul 20 2012, 05:30 AM
Post #22


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I would like to find a good condition right rear fender section to replace the section that is outlined in the picture below. I already have the top section that I got from Restoration Design some time ago. I need to replace this area due to poor repair that was done sometime in the past.

Does anyone have the section of fender that is outlined in the picture that is in good condition?

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Jeff B
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speed metal army
post Jul 20 2012, 05:44 PM
Post #23


Waiting for the rain to stop...
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Jul 19 2012, 07:56 PM) *

QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Jul 19 2012, 09:42 PM) *

I'm sure McMaster has to have a suitable replacement for cheaper.

I already looked. Get the 928 part.

When a bearing gets loose inside, replacement is the only fix.

Let me check one of my shitboxes.I probably have one you can have gratis, but you have to pay shipping from Canada( west coast )
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jkb944t
post Jul 23 2012, 05:41 AM
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If you find a good one just let me know what the shipping will be. Thanks!

Jeff B
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gothspeed
post Jul 26 2012, 10:46 AM
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Great thread and even better work! I too have a 1973 that will be getting the GT replica treatment (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ....... I will be following this thread (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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jkb944t
post Nov 1 2012, 02:55 PM
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Well I am actually going backwards on this project now. I found that the inner right panel (marked with an X in the picture) was pretty rusted from the battery so I am replacing it now.

My question for others who have performed this repair is should I splice in the panel even with the bottom of the sail support (shown with an arrow in the picture) or should I go above that where the spot welds are?

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jkb944t
post Oct 10 2013, 05:59 AM
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I am trying to get back to work on this project and need some advice. The only rust issue on this car is the upper section of the firewall due to the pad holding moisture. A club member hooked me up with a good upper firewall section a while back.

Can anyone give me some tips on installing the upper section of the firewall? It looks like it will be rather difficult so any ideas or experience would be appreciated.

Jeff B
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rick 918-S
post Oct 10 2013, 07:05 AM
Post #28


Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Just spotted your thread. Post some photos of what your trying to do and I'll try to check in later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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sean_v8_914
post Oct 10 2013, 09:16 AM
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lookin good.
if you do not reinforce teh entire inner suspension pick up console it will rip at teh cross brace and or the 2 underside ribs
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jkb944t
post Oct 11 2013, 05:30 AM
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This is a picture of the upper section of the firewall that has the rust on it, especially in both lower corner sections.

Attached Image

This is the piece that I am going to use to replace the bad section which has just been blasted to clean it up.

Attached Image

I am hoping that someone has replaced this panel before and can give me some advice on how to do it.

Jeff B
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OllieG
post Oct 11 2013, 06:18 AM
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Do you really need to replace the entire Firewall? I'm making repairs to the Firewall on my car right now and just patching up the rusty sections.. Yours doesn't look that bad from the photo at least.

I personally would use a cup brush on an angle grinder and see just how bad it is before diving in and replacing the entire thing - I think that would be a big and possibly unnecessary job...

Just my 2 cents...
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OllieG
post Oct 11 2013, 08:25 AM
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If you do decide to cut out the old one, I would definitely brace the opening...
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Eric_Shea
post Oct 11 2013, 08:53 AM
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PMB Performance
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Loving this project. If love to watch it get kick started again.

I would soda blast the existing piece and see where you really are. I tend to agree with Ollie here.

We've replaced sections in the past. If it comes to that, it looks like you have good metal. I would simply lay out where you would like to cut and weld. That upper section you're talking about is fairly straight forward with the exception of the double walled bits and frankly... I don't see any issue that would make me cut there.

Again, if you "need" to, just cut and patch the areas of concern.
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Eric_Shea
post Oct 11 2013, 08:57 AM
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PMB Performance
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Also... In reference to post#26. I'd just patch the areas needed.
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jkb944t
post Feb 3 2014, 06:55 AM
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I am finally getting back to my project. My son and son-in-law are going to help me as well so it will be a family effort going forward.

I am getting ready to install a used sail panel/lower fender section. It is in good shape except for some internal rust from the internal foam weather stripping. There are only a few minor holes that extent to the outside of the panel.

Attached Image

Attached Image

I need suggestions on repairing this before I install it. Should I weld or braze the minor pin holes shut and then use a fiberglass body filler to fill the rest of the imperfections?

Jeff B
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jkb944t
post Mar 10 2015, 06:56 AM
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As you can see from the photo the mounting ear for my rear trunk was just screwed into the body. Both sides are screwed on but I would assume that they should be welded onto the body.

I don’t believe that that they are currently located correctly either. Does anyone know if there is a measurement for aligning these mounting ears?

Jeff B
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brant
post Mar 10 2015, 07:30 AM
Post #37


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QUOTE(jkb944t @ Apr 27 2011, 05:31 AM) *

I am finishing up the rear camber adjustment links.




Jeff B




These are actually to lock in the rear tow and not camber

If you eliminate enough rear flex with the right bushings and swing arms you can run zero rear toe. These bars help with flex but mostly help lock in your settings and prevent setting slip from side loading
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rgalla9146
post Mar 10 2015, 08:12 AM
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I don't know where you can get dimensions for location of the hinge bracket.
Maybe someone here knows a source.
What I've done is mount the hinges in the middle of their adjustment slots, put the lid on and adjust to proper fit starting at the latch/ receiver, then tack weld.
Obviously with no torsion bars.
Then operate the lid to verify that it is located well / that it is adjustable to uniform gaps and height.
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jkb944t
post Mar 12 2015, 06:01 AM
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I was hoping to avoid reassembling the trunk and engine bay lid but that may be my only choice if these dimensions aren’t documented.

I did manage to get the hinges drilled for lightness but truthfully mostly just for the cool look!

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Jeff B
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OllieG
post Mar 13 2015, 01:51 AM
Post #40


OllieG
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QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Mar 10 2015, 02:12 PM) *

...put the lid on and adjust to proper fit starting at the latch/ receiver, then tack weld.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

That's how I'm going to do mine. The PO had made a proper mess of the hinge mounts on mine so I had to cut them out and patch in new metal behind. Now I'll put the lid in place to find the right mount location.

I'm going to use gas struts on mine like those available from Camp914…eventually.
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