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> Rotisserie Mania
SirAndy
post Jun 12 2004, 01:34 PM
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hey chris, that looks great!

one thing i was always worried about when using a rotisserie is bodyflex due to a weak chassis (what? rust on my 914???).
especially when the longs are rusted.

inspired by the GT bracing for the roof, i think one could build a X-Brace for the top with a sheer-joint (red dot), mounted (bolted) to the rear targa latch mount on one end and the front sunvisor mounting on the other.
if the rods had fully adjusteable hime-joints (like the droplinks on a sway bar) you could fine-tune the top gap using the second pic below as a reference ...

what-chya-all think?
Andy

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/image/rotissy.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims/fullbody.jpg)

PS: dimension details can be found here:
914 Info Section
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Lou W
post Jun 12 2004, 10:21 PM
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Hi, This is my first post, I down loaded a Rotisserie Building Instructions from Automoblie Atlanta. It looked fairly simple. Attached is the location: http://autoatlanta.com/tech/rotisserie_build.html
Louis Rachwitz
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SirAndy
post Jun 12 2004, 10:29 PM
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QUOTE(Lou W @ Jun 12 2004, 09:21 PM)
Hi, This is my first post

fixed your link Louis (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

welcome to the club!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Andy
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Lou W
post Jun 12 2004, 10:42 PM
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Thank you for your help Andy, I was having a rough time getting started. There's all kinds of good stuff here. Im looking forward to being a part of this club (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) . Lou R
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ChrisFoley
post Jun 13 2004, 09:35 AM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 12 2004, 03:34 PM)
i think one could build a X-Brace for the top with a sheer-joint (red dot), mounted (bolted) to the rear targa latch mount on one end and the front sunvisor mounting on the other.
if the rods had fully adjusteable hime-joints ...

I don't like the idea of using the windshield frame for that.
Better would be to add a diagonal push/pull rod to the braces I have, that attaches at the upper hinge bracket on one side and the latch bracket on the other.
The upper door braces adjust the "f" dimension and a single diagonal would be sufficient to adjust the "x" dimension.
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ChrisFoley
post Jun 14 2004, 11:03 PM
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I got a simple online shipping quote of about $150 to send one of my rotisseries to Phoenix, AZ for example. Actual cost might be slightly less.
If I had five orders I could do them for $750 each, plus shipping.
For ten orders I would cut the price to $700.
I would need $300 downpayment each.
I don't take credit cards or Paypal.
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Brad Roberts
post Jun 14 2004, 11:12 PM
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Be careful how much you preload your door braces. I found out the hard way how week/strong the door stryker area was (not very). It does work however. We loaded the chassis another 5mm's past the resting position.

It looks nice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

I'm VERY surprised Perry didnt see it was a 75 tub... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)


B
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McMark
post Jun 15 2004, 12:32 AM
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If it's a 75, then it's Viper Green Metallic. One of the more uncommon colors. I need a good picture of a Metallic Green six.
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tdgray
post Jun 15 2004, 06:01 AM
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Chris, Thanks for the info.... unfortunately I do not have that kind of coin right now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) but from what I can see your rotisserie's are top notch.

I guess the question still is what is the effect of using a rotisserie with a car with rust issues, longs floor pans et all?

My guess is that you would want to make all long repairs BEFORE you take on anything else.... Am I right... Bueller...Bueller ? <_<
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