LED Conversion - snafus? Options

[mcbrems]

Dang, your picture is big!! No wonder you couldn't upload it here...

Grey/brown are the reverse lights. Short those two together and the reverse lights should come on.
Fat red is always hot.
Brown is always always always ground. Always.
The fat yellow with a red stripe gets +12V when the key goes to "start".
Blue goes to the alternator warning light.
Black/purple is the tach signal wire.
Black/red is the coil power wire.
Green/red is the oil pressure light sender. (I think. Could be the oil temp sender wire, but I think that one is green/black.)
Not sure about the two solid green wires or the white wire. White is usually fuel injection related though.

--DD

Resuscitating a year-old thread! I'm getting to the final stretch of my EV conversion, and am now spelunking into the wiring harness. This is what I discovered about the above:

There are two red primaries that are always hot, regardless of the key switch.
There is a black 12 gauge wire that is only hot when the key is on.

I thought for sure the coil wire (black/red) would also be hot when the key was on,
but it is not. That doesn't seem right.

I also expected at least the alternator warning light (blue) to also be hot when the key is on, but all wires are cold except for the black and two reds.

I will dig back into it tonight, with meter and wiring diagram in hand, but any thoughts here are welcome.

McB

[Dave_Darling]

The coil power wire looks a lot like the tach signal wire. The power wire is fatter than the signal wire, and goes on the other side of the coil.

I believe the blue alt light wire gets power any time the alt is charging.

--DD

[mcbrems]

I guess it makes sense that many of the wires I expected to be hot when the key is on - are not. The reason is the 2 red primaries coming directly from the battery are feeding the circuit board, which then decides where to send 12v when the ignition is on.

Looking over my diagram, I see you were correct about the blue wire. It is there to send 12v from the circuit board to the alternator light in the speedometer.

The coil wires are also run by the circuit board, and would be part of the engine harness, which I'm not using.

More digging to do.

McB

[swl]

got any details about the conversion?

[mcbrems]

As a matter of fact, here is the blog address:

914electric.wordpress.com

Enjoy.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[swl]

Very nice! Great research and fabrication. Looks like you are doing it up right! I'll follow with interest and no small degree of jealosy.

[Cairo94507]

mcbrems - WOW; I checked out your site and though I do not desire an electric 914, I am seriously impressed by all of the fabrication and thought you have put into that car. It should be very cool and I am glad to see you have given a 914 a new lease on life. Congratulations.

[mcbrems]

Thanks! Hopefully, the car will be around for another 30 years (or longer).

[TINKERGINEERING]

Here is a full composited color current flow diagram that I combined from all the sectional files on Pelican Part Tech forum:

http://www.pifflesquit.com/914_EV_Conversi...tric_74_ALL.jpg


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.pifflesquit.com-11660-1310152375.1.jpg)

Cheers,
MCBrems

PERFECT I was missing the key

[barefoot]

If anyone is looking to replace gauge illumination bulbs with LED's, here's the ones I used:
Note that there are 4 different bulb holders in our gauges;
2 are body ground & 2 are separate wire ground.
2 different bulb base styles as well.
Barefoot