My v8 conversion thread, With pics, progress, questions ect!! Options

[BIGKAT_83]

Oh ya, Tell Dad about those elbows... I dont like them... but he says they'll work, What do I know anyways.... So We'll see....

Take those PVC pipe fittings and put them in a pot of boiling water on the stove. I bet they melt or are so flexible you can crush them.

BTDT.........
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Andyrew]

Ok, total cost of the v8 conversion was 2300.

Minus my 2.0 engine sale (800) its 1500
Minus the sale of my carbs that went with the engine (150) 1350

Minus some other stuff I sold along the way, and its about 1k....

I'll throw those fittings in the boiling water and let dad watch... lol..

[Andyrew]

Kit 1 300
Kit 2 500
Distributor 85
Radiator 50
Fuel Pump Faucet existing
Hoses and fittings 200
Headers Kit 2
Muffler Kit 2
Engine Rebuild 720
Machine work incl
Engine kit incl
Bearings (*2) 10
Paint, sand paper and Misc 60
Oil cooler 2
Remote oil filter kit 1
Overflow tank 0
Radiator Cap 2
Hood Kit 2
Fans Kit 2
Oil and filter 15
Materials for Radiator 109.95
Throwout bearing 70
Pilot bushing 40
Swap meet items
Plug wires 5
Gauges 5
Misc 10
Exhaust kit 2


Dera ya go.... a break down..

[dan10101]

BIGKAT and Brad
Thanks for warding off a big problem. We're throwing out the plastic fittings and getting copper plumming like one of the previous kit owners was using. I would prefer stainless, but Lowes doesn't carry it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

So now it's time to learn how to solder copper plumbing. (Good to 450 degrees)

In the meantime. We took a moment last night to try and fire up the beast. Long enough to find out the dist was 180 out, wasn't getting any juce, the battery was dead, exhaust had a huge leak and hi-torque starters are NOISEY. (May be because we need to rework the tranny mount bolts, too solid).

Finally, FIRE in the HOLE. (litterally when the exhaust was leaking)
Still have to rework the timing and find why the carb seems to be sucking air.
No more running until the water lines are sorted out. Soldering is a pain, anyone else have an idea how to reduce 1 1/2" hose to 1" hose?

Inch by inch... slowly It turned...

[Mueller]

for the reducer, try Summit Racing

I found these for Datsun Z Chevy swaps
Hose adapters/reducers

If you do end up using the copper tubing, try to add a bead on the OD so that the hose is less likely to slip off...

[lapuwali]

Sounds like you guys need to enter the $2005 Challenge. Even if you don't, I'd bet GRM would like to hear from you. They love this kind of thing.

[soloracer]

Andyrew: I bought a radiator from Renegade Hybrids and they forgot to send me a mounting kit and ducting. So I called and asked where it was. Scott told me he was shipping the ducting separately (which he did) and that they no longer hard mount their radiators. He said they had problems with the radiators getting cracked from the mounts (possibly due to flexing of the chassis?) and that they now float mounted their radiators. I'm not sure what that means but I thought I should share in case it is a concern for you.

Anyone know what they mean by "float mounting" the radiator? How would that be accomplished?

[Mueller]

rubber isolators???

I'd mount the radiator so that you could grab it and move it about 1/4" in all directions, make sure you use a soft material that'll absorb the shock of hitting bumps and such

[Mueller]

(ex-Chrysler engine designer)

P.S. HOW CAN I POST THE PICS OF MY OLD RAD SETUP?

hmmmm....that might explain why you cannot post a pic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

just kidding...the admins have a "rule"...one must post 10 times before posting pictures



by the way, welcome to the club !!!!!

[neo914-6]

"float mounting" the radiator

My benz rad sits on rubber rings (the bottom of the rad had big pins and the side and top is literally spring clipped. Maybe this is considered float mounting. Hmmm, I got my Renegade rad last year. I better check it out...

Welcome 9one4racer,
Felix

[mike_the_man]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I know Mike did a lot of custom work. I don't think you can just go and buy a set of $25 bearings and slap them in. I'm sure Mike will explain, although he doesn't really have to. I think most of us understand what went into creating the roller bearings.

[Andyrew]

Out of curiosity 9one4racer...

Did you even read this thread, Neh, did you even look at all the pics?

Its obvious that I shrowded the radiator..

oh... and dont be trying to slam down someone who's done as much work for 914's as Mike Mueller has done...

And as for the copper piping... I went with 1in id rubber lines. Copper tubing is only used for reducers and such.

I think Mr. Mueller needs an apology.

and if you think.. for one moment that im going to allow any more of this slamming on my thread...

No more talk of this. 9one4 either appologise to Mike Mueller, or dont respond at all. I will have the admins delete all these posts if something goes awry.

ps, you need 10 posts to be able to attach a picture.

[Mueller]

Thanks for the cheap shot from the "peanut gallery" Mr. Mueller.
Anyways, all I'm trying to do is let others learn from my mistakes when I listened to bad advice

geesh...someone cannot take a joke (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

no need to "defend" me Sammy or Mike, there will always be designers and engineers that'll make the same comments about "everything" and how they shouldn't cost that much....

[Mueller]

amdrew, no big deal.....we'll get over this and laugh about it later on.....no need to get personal, I guess some people don't have a sense of humor.....he was trying to help, I just thought it amusing that he had to throw in his "title", like that was going to make his advise golden (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

he does make a good point however, on the failure potential of the solder-joints

time to move on to the next subject (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[Andyrew]

Ya, When I first did some of the solders they had leaks. then I went through it again and got em good.

I still need to do a little work with my cooling system...

I have 2 overflow tanks, and no reserve... figure that one out.. lol (gotta put in a reserve tank... when it boils over (not a high enough pressure cap... I think... It boils over once the car is shut off. the engine temp is only at 220.. but the pressure increase yeilds it to spill over into my main overflow tank.. thus I loose water in my system and get air... thus I have to put more water into the system..)

[Mueller]

andyrew,

i have a radiator/water system test kit that you can borrow, you pressurize the system with it by pumping it up....with car off......

[Andyrew]

Sounds interesting!

Currently overheating is not one of my major worries... I know I can always address that..But I am worrying about the engine not having alot of power.. and its wierd noises..

[Mueller]

i'd drain some oil out of it and carefully examine it looking for possible signs of accelerated wear or damage.

[andys]

If you are going to use copper piping, I'd suggest you use a 90 *sweep* rather than a simple 90. It has a much larger radius bend rather than the tight *L* found in common copper 90's. You may have to go to a plumbing supply house (though I've seen 1/2" at HD), but they are available and will really help to reduce pressure drop.

Shock mounting the radiator is a really good way to avoid cracking/leakage issues. For race vehicles, I have always fabricated a U shape with U channel lined with foam weather strip. Slide the radiator in, and it is completely isolated from vibration under even the most severe conditions. I have an AFCO dual pass racing radiator; on their site, they recommend this type of isolation mounting as well. I have done this on mine; as I progress, I will post some pic's in a couple of days of my setup.

I suggest you avoid using puller and pusher fans. I have no direct experience with witnessing problems with this combination, but (as was previously posted) I've read that any small difference in the balance of flow between the two can create a tremendous stall in the air flow.

Shrouding the fans really improves their effectiveness usually because they cannot cover enough of the radiator core area. An unshrouded fan will only cover the area it projects over. You can test first, and shroud as necessary. If you do build a shroud, I'd also suggest some simple flappers that remain closed when the fans are runing while the car is at slow speed or stopped, and open when airflow increases as vehilcle speed increases so as to realize a greater area of air flow. BeCool makes a nice fan and shroud assebly with flappers available from Summit, p/n BCI-75007. BTW, I bought two 12" fans from Zirgo; they have very high CFM ratings, their prices are very good, and you can buy directly from them (Oregon). http://www.zirgo.com/search.lasso?search=fan


I also stumbled arcoss this site http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02...fan/index.shtml
I'm not sure I believe their estimated 2000CFM from a 12" fan (off a Ford Taurus), but it is an interesting alternative (two fans?).....Although, after checking into on-line junk yard pricing, seems $75 to $150 was the going price. Perhaps you'd fare better at a Pick-and-Pull.

Cheers,
Andy

[neo914-6]

oh....just kidding
9one4racer

Didn't you guys see this? If anything maybe 9one4racer needs to learn how to post smilies. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
Felix