My v8 conversion thread, With pics, progress, questions ect!! Options

[boxstr]

No the rip is on the front of the engine and the other end is ???
CCLINICOULDHAVEHAD A V8

[skline]

Glad they arrived and it looks like its all there, I asked them at the counter if I should put more tape on it and they said no, it will be fine, the box was nice when it left here, its the box for my subwoofer. Anyway, it looks like all the stuff is there, The engine numbers you gave me match the car you mentioned, it is a 350/4 barrel, with A/C and an automatic transmission out of a full size sedan. So that was a numbers matching car. As for your timing chain, yes, that is a stock double roller and no, I would not reuse the lifters. I would replace them with the cam you buy. If you want a good cam and lifter set without spending a lot on a HP grind and name, pick up a melling Z28 cam and lifters, you could probably get them for about $80.00 and get nice performance out of it. Otherwise, go for the Rod Simpson cam or ask Renegade what they use and run one of those. The idea is to get one that puts the torque in the upper RPM range. The clamps I sent are the ones I used to run the hoses down under the car. If you bend the lip on the one side out, you can go across the hose and screw it right into the floor. I have more of these if you need them. I just grabbed a handful and threw them in there so you could see.

[skline]

Good luck with your project.

If you have to go with a different crank might step up to a 400 crank and build a 383. Or step down to a 327 crank. I might be able to hook you up with a set of TRW Forged 11.0:1 327 pistons for pennies. Replace the cam with something with a little more hit. Call up Summit and snag a cam with some balls and really scare the neighbors.

With a little time and a little extra money you can really make a sweet motor. Might try and find a set of aluminum heads on ebay or at a local machine shop for cheap too.

Scott, I assume you are aware that the fuel pump you have will be loud as hell? We ran a few of those on race cars and they are noisy. You may have to fab some sort of isolator to cut the noise. When my Holley blue was mounted in the trunk I could hear the pump over then engine at idle.

Whatever you do, unless you want to spend lots on a 930 or G50 trans, do not use a 400 crank and build a 383, that would put out way too much torque and you would rip your trans apart the first run. I built a few of those engines and the cheap one I built put out over 450 pounds of torque. The roller one I built made 535 pound of torque with 475 HP. I may build one for mine later after I aquire a transmission that will handle it. That is what the 350 in my garage is for. But that is later on. Aluminum heads would be a plus as they are a lot lighter, but you are trying to do this on a budget, I would stick with a set of 305 heads with the smaller chambers and get larger valves installed or just use the heads you have and get used to the V8 performance first.

As for the fuel pump, I had heard they were a bit loud, I was thinking of using the stock 914 fuel pump mounts is I can find another one and using them, they are about 1.25 inches of solid rubber that I can bolt to the body and then mount the pump to that. Hopefully that will quiet it down a little.

[Brett W]

I know the 383 is a great torque monster. You are righht he would probably splatter the tranny at the drop of a clutch.

AS far as the fuel pump they may help alot but it will still suprise you when you hear it. It literally resonates through the body.

[Andyrew]

My stock pump is pretty loud, and the carb one I had was even louder...

Up in the front trunk it should be better... I have the stock rubber mounts, but there like 1/2 an in.. Hopefully they'll work fine. Anyways...

Do I need a special fuel pump? Or will anything work?

Im watching ebay and there alot on there..

Like this one...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...7910747475&rd=1

Would that one work?

[Andyrew]

I just droped off the engine and everything off at an engine shop. They'll be hot tanking everything, boring the block, and getting me a new crank, and a master engine kit. Total for this is $620. I'll put it together. Where did I get the money? Well my 4 cylander is going to be gone (probably) monday, and I'll have just enough money to pay for this, and a box of root beer.

Im going to call Comp cams today and see what they recommend me as far as a cam goes.

Andrew

[skline]

Hey Andrew, you can use the fuel pump you used with your carbs before, it should put out about 3 or 4 PSI which is all you need for your car. As for the master rebuild kit, they should let you pick which cam you want, see if they do, then just pick one that puts the torque in the upper RPM range.

[Andyrew]

Scott, I aint usin that fuel pump.... Ok, maybe to get it running, but I dont want to use that thing. From what I've heard it does not work very well. It would be terrible for a v8, but im sure its fine for a 4.. Heck it even says its for a vw on it...

Scott, yes they are letting me pick my cam, but they dont really make a cam that would tailor to my needs... Good fuel economy, low idle, high reving, mid range torque, continues to make power at top end. ect..

The cam that Compcams recomended me was like a race cam. pulls to 7k, max tq at 4.2k, All sounded good, but it looks like a race cam..

Gross Valve Lift 0.519 0.523
Duration At 0.006 Tappet Lift 294 306

Anyways, Scott what are the specs of the cam that you have?

Andrew

[shoguneagle]

Andyrew.

Well, first of all you are moving right along. Alas, the energy of youth. I really like what you are doing and how you are approaching the project. Keep the effort going. Get either the car done with all the configuration, or start building the engine and concentrate on that. You car will come together pretty much as we unfold the equipment to you.

The water pump is a reverse engine mounted with all the hoses and attachments to shorten the front part of the engine so it can fit into the 914 cavity. You may decide to use the electric water pump later but this could require modification to the engine harness around the switch area (addint relays and separating the load capacities away from the ignition switch.) This will probably have to be done to handle the fan load since they will be electric and probably have manual/ auto controls.

Time Frame: I have pulled the front suspension and delivered the promised goods to Brad; the 911 front suspension is being placed under the car as we speak. Next on the project is to pull the radiator and plumbing system so it can be delivered to you; the engine will follow including separating the parts into what goes to to you. I will be on the car this weekend for a day and half, then on to the engine. I am looking to get the entire radiator and plumbing out this weekend, and have made some progress on the engine removal. I will give you a reading later on the engine removal and delivery details.

We are currently finishing up the remod of the house and traveling between here and Flagstaff. The one thing I will promise is that you should get them in a timely manner.

Document your car build with pictures, running journal entries, and this thread. It will bring joy to you in later years. I really mean when you are eighteen or nineteen. Ah, enjoy the process and build it the best you can. You will make mistakes, but from what I have seen from the comments on this thread you have a lot of positive assistance

So much for now.

Steve Hurt

[dan10101]

Scott, Steve and all,
I really appreciate all the help, advice, and great deals on the parts for Andrew.

We're both learning a bunch along the way. It's been many years since I rebuilt my last small block Chevy. So I'm learning a few things over again.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/CurrentC...TML/128-169.asp

The Comp Cams person Andrew talked to recommended the 7th cam on the 2nd page (pg 130). Extreem Energy. It's easy to spot because the RPM range is 2800-7000. It's much too radical in my opinion.

The machine shop person recommended one closer to the 3rd one down on the same page 1300 to 5800rpm. I'm leaning toward this one unless it still has too much torque down low.

The rest of the engine will be very mild. 350ci 9 to 1 pistons, stock heads, alum dual plane manifold with stock q-jet carb (for now).
So is this cam too much for this mild engine?

[ChrisReale]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif) Damn you guys, now I want a v8 conversion. Looks like a great project. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

[Andyrew]

Well the 2.0 engine is gone now.

$700 is in my hands, and I've met a great 914 guy

Thanks Doug Wright, it was fun!

So my engine bay is a little empty. I'll be workin on the radiator setup.

Andrew

[Andyrew]

The heads where magnifluxed and checked for cracks, Said to be good, though the seats werent perfect, although runable. 70 bucks and I have basically perfect heads...

I think I'll do it.

Dads saying that he thinks we should destroke it... So that it revs higher.. and less tq.

Anyone else have an idea? how much higher will it rev? Given a high revving cam, and a performer rpm or such intake? Roller rockers are on the wishlist (christmas or something)


Andrew

[Neal]

Andrew, I loved reading this post, keep it up. You seem to have a lot of surrogate fathers helping you, take advantage of this brain trust. You are very fortunate to have this help and keep up your humor it makes me smile.


Neal (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Andyrew]

Thanks neal.

Alright guys I've been thinking (oh no... RUN! HE'S GOT A WELDER IN HIS HANDS, RUUUUUN!)

I've been thinking about chassi (hmm *checks word's spell check*Gah, stupid "s") chassis strength.. Yes this does include the welder.... I was thinking of adding some tubes in very percise locations to strengthen the car... I cant really put super good pics of it... But let me Tell you what im thinking.

Up front in the trunk, Since I will be cutting the inside fender wells, I think I should put a couple braces in there. Mainly, From the front A arm pick up point on both sides To some point on the firewall of the gas tank. Creating a triangle. Also from those two bars, possibly putting in one or two bars that go horizontally, one at the bottom by the a arms, and one in the middle, possibly holding a battery down the future when I decide to put the battery up front.

In the middle of the car.. I dont know, suggestions accepted, but I dont want this to be a tube car... I have ONLY a certain amount of welding skills.. lol. I want to add as much strength as possible while not cutting up the car or "ruining it" Maybe 10 bars max through the car. I do have plans of welding in the interior long stiffening kit. My longs are perfect, but this is a going to be a v8 car.. and you never know what that extra tq could do.

Next I heard some traffic about the rear suspension ears possibly flexing a tad.. I also saw the thread where they ran a tube from the front engine fire wall to the ear.. Looks good... Anything else in that compartment?

Also the rear trunk.. Somethin like this

(IMG:http://i3.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/27/1c/c3_12_s.JPG)

Anyone have any advice? Where can I help this problem of "stress"? I get it enough myself...

Andrew

[Mike T]

Maybe like this?

[Andyrew]

Thats what I hear is strong.. Picking it up at the trani mounts..
Thats a thought.

I think that still might give me enough room for a spare tire... I've got a space saver that I've got to fit back there.

What about the front? The interior?

Ehh?

Andrew

[Mueller]

andrew, you have to be careful strengthening the car, you build the front and rear up too much and the middle gets all the abuse......I'd say just reinforce the trailing arm ear tabs like shown in the thread for Bill Pickerings 914/6 race car.....

there are V8 914s that have no additional bracing that have been on the street for years and years....

you can save some time and money by skipping all this unneeded bracing and move onto other projects on your car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

in a few years when you are making some real money and if you are still enjoying the car, get a "proper" transmission that'll take abuse, then add a full cage with all the bracing to make a car you can beat on and not worry about a thing....

[MattR]

Looks good!

I cant believe someone's trying to "detune" a sbc. Its like... well I dont have a good analogy, but it sounds funny.

Where did you get your space saver tire?

[Andyrew]

Space saver spare, pick and pull, there was a 924S there.. 5 bucks... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

hehe

Mike, Ya I know "To many projects".. But Im just thinking of what area will get the most abuse? I have an extra trani, and Im going to keep picking those up, plus half shafts.. I basically want to make the car be a... IF something breaks.. THIS is it.

making it the "failsave" or what not.

Matt, you know why im detuning it..

Besides... Im detuning it to rev, and for fuel economy. Actually im tuning it.. lol. Im forcing all the tq and hp up high.

STILL dont know what cam im going to use.. and Im probably picking it up today!!

Andrew