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> Fuse block for red wires from batt, EDIT: 3/06/13. not making kits anymore.
wingnut86
post Feb 20 2012, 06:44 AM
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Is it Andy or Zach who has the Limo project?

Tom, you may want to offer a one-off price on that one, the copper alone could bankrupt you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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Tom
post Feb 20 2012, 08:38 AM
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Yes, I expect that the wiring harness would be a major project!!
Tom
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mikea100
post Feb 20 2012, 12:50 PM
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Tom, put me down for a $30 setup.
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Steve
post Feb 22 2012, 09:34 AM
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QUOTE(Tom @ Feb 15 2012, 12:29 PM) *

I found some 1/8" X 1" bar stock that I think will do the job nicely. I will include a larger piece of heat shrink that can be placed just under the fuse block area if anyone has any concerns.
I don't supply the mounting screws or bolts to mount these kits. Some may want metric, others std., so I will leave that up to the individual.
I have, previously, stressed the importance of good solid connections in electrical systems. The system is only efficient in carrying current and voltage as the poorest connection allows. So I will put together the 4 wires and connectors between the battery positive and the fuse block if you so desire. There will be a slight charge. $2.50 per kit. See pic #2.
Basic kit will be $25.00 with shipping included, $27.50 if you want the connectors installed, and $30.00 if you need a new battery connector shown in the pic. The connector on the wires to the battery is the same ID size as OEM, so if your positive batt connector is in good shape, they will fit the stock bolt.
There are 5 days left before I order parts.
For you guys who don't desire a kit, be advised it would be a great idea to check your wire condition at the connector to the positive connector. I dissected my connections and was surprised at how many strands of the original wire were broken due to vibration. On one of the 2.5 mm wires which had 32 strands of 0.28mm copper wire, over half were broken. What this does is cause trouble in trouble shooting electrical problems. That wire would read continuity just fine, voltage just fine under no load conditions, but under load would drop excessive voltage. Any of you who have the hot - no starter issues would do well to closely inspect this area and maybe put new connectors on. Just for your info, the 4.0mm wires have 55 strands of 0.28mm copper wire. Spent some time on the computer trying to find out why different wire companies make wire different. Gets too involved for this thread. US standard seems to like 19 strands of different dia. copper wire to make up different current ratings for most of the more common sized wires.
Later,
Tom

If its not too late I will take the $30.00 version. Do you take paypal?
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porsche914gt
post Feb 22 2012, 09:53 AM
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I'll buy a kit.
Thanks.
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Tom
post Feb 22 2012, 10:32 AM
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OK, I'm going to order parts. If you posted here, I have you on my order list and I'll be getting payment info to you via a PM.
Thanks,
Tom
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porsche914gt
post Feb 28 2012, 09:15 AM
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Tom,
I sent a pm, but its not showing up as a sent message in the control panel.
Did you get it?
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Tom
post Feb 28 2012, 10:26 AM
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porsche914gt,
No I sure didn't. Must be some setting on your controls. I need to know if you want a 4 way or a 6 way. Same price. 4 way is the one in this thread, pic of 6 way attached. Also what type, basic, connectors on and soldered and if you need a new battery terminal.
Scott S, sent you a PM.
Thanks,
Tom


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Steve
post Mar 2 2012, 10:32 AM
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So when are these supposed to ship?
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Tom
post Mar 7 2012, 02:47 PM
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Got an e-mail from the parts supplier and the parts have been shipped, 3/7. So I should have the parts no later than Saturday, 3/10. I will get them out as quick as I can.
I wanted to post my completed install pics to show the cable clamps and nylon ties. It is important to secure these areas to prevent vibration from damaging the soldered connections.
Thanks,
Tom


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narino
post Mar 9 2012, 09:53 PM
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Tom,

I missed this round. But am interested if there is a 3rd round.
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Tom
post Mar 13 2012, 01:05 PM
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New info post #1
Tom
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Tom
post Mar 13 2012, 11:08 PM
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Parts are all here and I have begun work on these. Over half are going with the 6 way fuse block. Remember when you are hookin up things where you want what amperage fuse to go and be sure to use the corresponding ga. wire for that slot. For mine I run 20 amp fuses for the two 4.0mm wires and 15 amp fuses for the 2.5mm wires. The kit comes with 30,25,and 20 amp fuses. The 6 way have two additional slots. Also remember that this fuse block is rated for 65 amps max. Unless you have upgraded your alternator, you could discharge your battery if you are using it to max. Attached is a pic of a sheet I put together to try to determine amperage during operation.
After you get all installed, it is easy to determine which fuse powers what by removing one fuse and then seeing what no longer has power. Make yourself up a small sheet to carry in the glovebox or your Haynes manual to help with troubleshooting.
I will start shipping on Wednesday 3/14. Probably only a few per day, so it will be a week or so to get them all done.
You should be able to save the pics to your files and print copies as needed.
Thanks,
Tom


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Tom
post Mar 14 2012, 08:13 AM
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Thought I would post a couple of pics of the connector attachment process I use to ensure a very good connection.
In the first pic #1 you see the wire stripped back 1/4" and the female spade connector sized to fit a 12 ga. wire. Takes a little manipulation of the connector to get it just slightly larger than the copper.
#2 you see the crimp completed.
#3 you see the soldering completed. The hemostats are used as a heat sink to keep the solder from "wicking" up the wire.
#4 is where the heat shrink goes on and in the second pic #4 you can see the second piece of heat shrink over the spade connector.
I had posted this process before but did not have the correct size wire and just wanted it shown the right way.
Tom


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Tedman5
post Mar 20 2012, 06:35 PM
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I'll take a $30 setup if you have extras now or put me in for one if you do a third round. I need this. Had a meltdown years ago in a 72 model. Don't want that to happen again and this is a good safety measure. Thank you in advance.
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euro911
post Mar 21 2012, 12:49 AM
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I received my 'kit' a couple of days ago, Tom. Thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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SLKWrx
post Mar 22 2012, 01:44 PM
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These are fantastic. If you're going for more, I'm in.
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wingnut86
post Mar 22 2012, 03:50 PM
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Tom,

I'm gonna need the upgrade kit for the 1st series I bought, as called out in SB#TomTToTheRescew-1

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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7275914911
post Mar 25 2012, 05:51 AM
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Hummmm!!!
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Got my kit installed...
I only used 1 set of holes in plate and also cut the pvc in half..
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Thanks Tom... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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Tom
post Mar 25 2012, 10:21 AM
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Ken,
Looks good. Two feet was just right. I put those numbers on with cellophane tape just so your would know which connector went to which fuse. It probably won't last when exposed to heat.
Tom
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