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> Fuse block for red wires from batt, EDIT: 3/06/13. not making kits anymore.
narino
post Apr 7 2012, 10:49 PM
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Tom, please add the battery connector to my order. Just checked the one in my car and it should be replaced. Thank you!
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Tom
post Apr 10 2012, 08:18 PM
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Thursday morning this round closes. So far only 7 have answered up.
Scotti, sent two PM's no answer.??
Tom
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Tom
post Apr 12 2012, 12:13 PM
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Round closed, Ordering parts. I will PM all who requested one.
Tom
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Scott S
post Apr 13 2012, 10:03 AM
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Hi Tom -
I came across something interesting last night. Went to install my kit and found that my car only has 3 wires coming out of the main harness. The harness looks to be completely original and untouched.

I have not yet pulled the wiring diagram to see if different year cars are set up differently. Mine is a 1972.

I was going to still use the kit, but the one wire coming out of my harness is a significantly larger gauge and would require a much larger connector, and then a much larger secondary wire to the battery after ther fuse. I dont think there is room in the fuse block for the heavier gauge.

Here is a pic...


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rwilner
post Apr 13 2012, 10:26 AM
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QUOTE(Scott S @ Apr 13 2012, 12:03 PM) *

Here is a pic...


hm....I spotted another problem...you motor also has 2 extra cylinders...

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Scott S
post Apr 13 2012, 11:44 AM
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it does now...... but it wasn't born that way!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Tom
post Apr 13 2012, 12:29 PM
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Scott,
That is sure different! I would be willing to bet someone has modified the wiring harness. Check the 14 pin connector at the relay board to see if two 2.5 mm wires go to pins # 12 and #14. If so, the check the fuse panel under dash for a 4.0 mm wire going to fuses 10,11,and 12. The other 4.0 mm wire goes to the key switch at terminal 30. If you have those 4 wires, then someone has spliced somewhere.
I have a possible solution however. On one of my orders, I made some mistakes and received 3 in-line water resistant type fuse holders that take ATC type fuses. I measured the wire and it is 4.9 mm, probably 8 ga. Attached is a pic. You would need to cut the wire wherever it would fit best for you and then splice and put on a connector.
Let me know and I'll send it to you with a couple of 30 Amp fuses.
Don't know why someone would use such large wire, that size could handle the entire car's load.
I can't tell from the pics, but are the two smaller wires 2.5 mm or 4.0 mm? That could give us a clue as to what wires may have been spliced.
Tom


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Tom
post May 23 2012, 04:59 PM
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ROUND #4 is open!!
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JeffBowlsby
post May 23 2012, 05:23 PM
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Early cars (1970-72) only have three red wires to the battery+ terminal. The two smaller wires go to the relay board, the single large gauge wire goes to a terminal block under the dash where it splits into smaller red wires that continue on. Check the factory wiring schematics for details.


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narino
post May 23 2012, 05:48 PM
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My apologies for the late post, things have been nuts as we just closed on our 1st home! I wanted to make sure to come back and thank Tom for the kit! It arrived quickly and looks great!

Salud,

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Tom
post May 23 2012, 09:03 PM
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Thanks Jeff. I had a 70 but that was 36 years ago and I don't remember how many wires I had. Looking at the Haynes manual for early years, it agrees with what you are saying.
Thanks again,
Tom
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Tom
post Jun 6 2012, 09:17 AM
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Round 4 closed. Due to the lack of interest I will not be making any right now.
Tom
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76-914
post Jun 6 2012, 07:22 PM
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I hope to get that last kit installed soon. My wife finally let me off the chain. Geezy Cripes it took me 30 days to floor our downstairs but Now I'm back in her good graces with an extended time "kitchen pass". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Tedman5
post Jun 7 2012, 01:26 PM
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@ Scott S...I have the same wire configuration on my 70. They changed the wires post 72 (I think) from 3 to 4 wire harness. I just used the largest connector that was supplied and with a little finess and solder, got mine to connect in the connection point that the largest wire would be on as diagramed. Although, I did have to increase my fuse to a 30amp to hold the load after popping a few. I tested it and discovered there was a 27 amp draw vs. 15. Its tested and tried, working perfect. I purposely went out driving with EVERY electrical component I could turn on. Nothing overloading, nothing hot.
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Tom
post Jun 19 2012, 12:52 PM
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I added a new thread on current measurements that would be good info for any of the fuse block kit buyers.
Link to thread http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=188773&hl=
More fuse block test info: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=192540
Tom
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JStroud
post Jul 28 2012, 08:30 AM
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I'd like two of these when you make them again.

Jeff
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no1uno
post Jul 28 2012, 10:35 AM
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I'd be in for two also.
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gothspeed
post Oct 30 2012, 08:39 PM
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Bump, to say I would be in for 1 if/when they are available ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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flash914
post Oct 31 2012, 01:16 AM
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Dorman 85668 sold through summit racing for $3.95 A little wire and you can do it yourself. I mounted mine to the fire wall on a piece of nylon scrap. Car is wraped up or I would include pictures. Gordon
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Tom
post Oct 31 2012, 05:47 AM
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Del-city has those prices beat. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
4 way fuse block - 73801 $2.71 ea.
6 way fuse block - 73803 $2.92 ea.
You can also order the heat shrink, terminal lugs, correct wire, nylon ties, sticky pads, battery connectors all from there. They have no idea about what size wire or fuses you will need. You have to figure that out for yourself. Then you can put it all together and test it to make sure you are doing things that will not come back to bite you later. I think I put in about 3 days of on/off research, including testing, to make sure I was providing a kit that would not only perform the job it is intended to do but would do so while remaining safe.
Looking at Summit's kits, I should be charging more. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) , nah, this was about providing a service to the club members at a reasonable price.
Tom
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