Fuse block for red wires from batt, EDIT: 3/06/13. not making kits anymore. Options

[Tom]

Rich,
Thanks for posting the pics. I have been waiting to see how others would like to make the mounting. I went with the plastic due to the insulating qualities, but don't see why a metal one wouldn't be just as good. Maybe the new kits will include your idea, if that is Ok with you. The plastic is difficult to work with and is more expensive too. I thought of a aluminum piece with a coating might be good. anyone have any better ideas?
Thanks,
Tom

[jmill]

I thought of a aluminum piece with a coating might be good. anyone have any better ideas?

Phenolic or micarta.

In researching, I've found that 14 ga. wire is good for 40 amps, so really no need to go 12 ga. Of course you are welcome to modify yours as you think necessary. Wire is expensive!!

Some wire sizing info.

[wingnut86]

Carbon Fiber (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[jmill]

Carbon Fiber (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Carbon fiber is pretty but I think he was looking for a non conductive alternative.

[rwilner]

Rich,
Thanks for posting the pics. I have been waiting to see how others would like to make the mounting. I went with the plastic due to the insulating qualities, but don't see why a metal one wouldn't be just as good. Maybe the new kits will include your idea, if that is Ok with you. The plastic is difficult to work with and is more expensive too. I thought of a aluminum piece with a coating might be good. anyone have any better ideas?
Thanks,
Tom

Tom
Of course you can use any idea I come up with! No need to ask.

My local ace harware carries aluminum and steel bar stock in various widths and thicknesses to experiment with. You can buy larger quantities cheaper from McMaster once you find dimensions you're happy with.

I also considered a piece of angle iron affixed to the front lip of the battery tray, but I had the bar, screws and standoffs lying around, so that's what I used.

I think aluminum is the best material for this -- you could tap the 2 holes to mount the fuse block and eliminate the need for nuts in those locations. I would tap them with the same thread as the engine tin screws -- I think they're M8s. I was going to tap my steel bar but it was too thin (only 1/16").

Because the fuse block is insulated, there's no need for the mounting bar to have insulating qualities. If you wanted it to be non-conductive you could always hit it with some enamel...if you used the car's body color it would look almost factory.

For anyone on the fence...I think this a quick, cheap, and very worthwhile upgrade.

[Tom]

Well, it certainly looks if there are quite a few interested in this mod. I'll search around for some aluminum bar stock to make the mounting plate from and see what patrs I need to order. No one seems to be using the sticky pads, so I'll drop them from the kit, I didn't use them either. When I get everything together, I'll let everyone know the cost, but probably $25.00, shipping included.
I will leave this open for say 10 days before ordering parts, to give all who want one time to answer.
Tom

[Black22]

I posted earlier, but wanted to say I'm still in for one!

Thanks for doing this again Tom!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[wingnut86]

Sometime the local Tractor Supply Company will carry odd bits of aluminum in stock.

John - That's humor, everyone nowadays wants CF parts for replacements for just about anything.

I read of some guys that were planning to produce whole Jagr E-class bodies from CF. Too rich for my blood
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

[Tom]

I found some 1/8" X 1" bar stock that I think will do the job nicely. I will include a larger piece of heat shrink that can be placed just under the fuse block area if anyone has any concerns.
I don't supply the mounting screws or bolts to mount these kits. Some may want metric, others std., so I will leave that up to the individual.
I have, previously, stressed the importance of good solid connections in electrical systems. The system is only efficient in carrying current and voltage as the poorest connection allows. So I will put together the 4 wires and connectors between the battery positive and the fuse block if you so desire. There will be a slight charge. $2.50 per kit. See pic #2.
Basic kit will be $25.00 with shipping included, $27.50 if you want the connectors installed, and $30.00 if you need a new battery connector shown in the pic. The connector on the wires to the battery is the same ID size as OEM, so if your positive batt connector is in good shape, they will fit the stock bolt.
There are 5 days left before I order parts.
For you guys who don't desire a kit, be advised it would be a great idea to check your wire condition at the connector to the positive connector. I dissected my connections and was surprised at how many strands of the original wire were broken due to vibration. On one of the 2.5 mm wires which had 32 strands of 0.28mm copper wire, over half were broken. What this does is cause trouble in trouble shooting electrical problems. That wire would read continuity just fine, voltage just fine under no load conditions, but under load would drop excessive voltage. Any of you who have the hot - no starter issues would do well to closely inspect this area and maybe put new connectors on. Just for your info, the 4.0mm wires have 55 strands of 0.28mm copper wire. Spent some time on the computer trying to find out why different wire companies make wire different. Gets too involved for this thread. US standard seems to like 19 strands of different dia. copper wire to make up different current ratings for most of the more common sized wires.
Later,
Tom

[wingnut86]

Thanks Tom!

Once I land again, I'll double my effort on a fuse box option/solution.

I've narrowed it down to the late model Beetles and BMWs - trying to keep it German and price point minded. Plus there are a helluva lot of these cars in junkyards, not the best option but better than 40 year old firestarters!

Recently, having been thrust into the middle of a rear-ender my wife and daughter experienced allowed me to view the whole Toyota Prius as a bunch of rear parts were replaced. The Prius has a very compact and rugged fuse panel under the front hood for the major electrical needs, minus the regen motors and fuel cell rack. It also provides standoffs on the panel so you can jump the car if the 12v battery is drained - yes, I had to test this one night.

The sealed dry cell battery is located in the back of the car. This arrangement is a bit harder to source in junkyards but I still want to pull one complete for a view.

Dave

[rgolia]

I am still in.....I will take the $30 version

[bcheney]

I am still in.....I will take the $30 version

Me to... $30 version. How and when will you accept payment?

[Tom]

I have received replies from all except Zymurgist and Somd914 about what style of kit they want and as soon as they let me know, no hurry as I know some are checking their friends, I will order the parts, hopefully not later than 22 Feb. Expect about two weeks to get all of the parts and begin putting kits together. As soon as I get the parts, I will send everyone an address to send either a money order or personal check for payment. If you have any requests for longer wires for a different location, and/or no aluminum mounting plate, let me know and we can make that work for you.
Thanks,
Tom

[Gint]

Put me down for a $30 setup.

[euro911]

... If you have any requests for longer wires for a different location, and/or no aluminum mounting plate, let me know and we can make that work for you.
Thanks,
Tom

Who in their right mind would order one with longer wires? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)
Oh yeah (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Thanks a lot Tom (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[zymurgist]

I'll take the $27.50 setup.

[Tom]

Ken,
You will have it in a couple of weeks. Only one left to make up their mind and they are checking with some friends. Parts should be ordered on 22 Feb. After I order the parts, I'll let everyone know, by PM, where to send either a personal check or money order.
Thanks,
Tom

[mzalanka]

If it's not too late, I'm in for the $30 kit.

Michael

Ken,
You will have it in a couple of weeks. Only one left to make up their mind and they are checking with some friends. Parts should be ordered on 22 Feb. After I order the parts, I'll let everyone know, by PM, where to send either a personal check or money order.
Thanks,
Tom

[7275914911]

I am also intersted if not to late...PM has been sent.

Thx in advance..

[somd914]

I'm in for the $30 kit. PM sent as follow up.