Signal Orange 914-6 3.8, (was: rebuild after Willow Springs bump) Options

[gopack]

Steve, I sent you a PM

[r_towle]

Fix it.
You never had a straight chassis to begin with...so some TLC on a cellete will deliver you a really straight chassis.

If its apples for apples, I would invest in the time on a bench to adjust a few other things (aside from fixing the damage) and you will end up with a better car in the long run.

Rich

[0396]

All the best with either decision...It was great seeing you at the event...maybe next time I will be running with you in the fast group.

[siverson]

> I would invest in the time on a bench to adjust a few other things (aside from fixing the damage) and you will end up with a better car in the long run.

Hmmm... That makes sense but there sure are conflicting opinions on this. It does seem to me that that the fixed car could be even straighter/stronger than a stock car that never had any damage or extra work done, but there others who say the opposite is true (it will never be "right").

Sort of like "blue printing" a factory engine... A blue-printed and rebuilt engine can be better than a 100% stock factory engine, right?

-Steve

[poorsche914]

Talk to Bob Saville about Huey...

Wrecked at Targa Newfoundland




Now autocrosses and shows




(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

1- It wasn't "right" from the factory. Or at least, it wasn't perfect. These cars were made by hand on a production line, and none of them is exactly right.
2- It looks like you have extra tubes; a car with those in place will be stronger than any original 914 if the tubes are in a reasonable place. If you're worried about strength, then put in more tubing in the right places.
3- If you do the work on a bench with the correct fixtures, it will be at least as straight as when it rolled off the showroom floor.

I say fix what you have. In the end, it will be straighter and stronger than a fresh shell, as long as the people doing the work know what they're doing.

And this is also time to pick a good shop to do the work, and then listen to them. If a good place digs into the body and tells you it would be better to get a new shell, then ignore all of us "experts" who haven't actually seen the car and get a new shell.

--DD

[sean_v8_914]

I sure hope ya fix it.
did Trev see it yet?

[siverson]

I've decided I'm going to try to repair the car first and see how it goes. If it can't be 100% straight and strong, then I'll look at replacing the chassis.

I found some of the parts I need from Glenn in LA via Craigslist. Really nice guy and I'm surprised we've never met before (at least I don't think I had met him). He had 8 914s in his backyard, and was pretty knowledgeable about the cars. I don't think he's on the forum...

I've never cut apart a 914 like this before. I certainly got a new perspective on areas of the car I hadn't seen before.

The rust looks worse in the photos than it really is. It should clean up well.

-Steve

[sean_v8_914]

thats great news. I think he will turn out just as fine as he ever was

[SirAndy]

Did you get the VIN? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


Someone with experience can work magick with a Celette bench.
Glad you're making progress.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

[RiqueMar]

Did you get the VIN? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


Someone with experience can work magick with a Celette bench.
Glad you're making progress.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

Steve! When you said Compton, I didn't know you meant Glenn! I sold a car to a guy about 6 months ago, and Glenn was the one that was going to be doing all the work on it. Small world.

[Twise]

Maybe this point of view will help:

Let's assume you want to buy a 914. You found 2 identical cars that are just what you were looking for and priced the same. The only difference is their history:

- One car was completely rebuilt using some beautiful parts from a concurs car that was damaged in an accident.

- The other car was severely crashed, cut in two and a front clip from some other damaged car was welded in. The combined chassis was measured and aligned using the best available tools.

I would pick the first one without blinking and I'm sure all those who commented on this thread will do the same.

Why would anybody prefer something that was damaged when a perfectly good alternative costs the same (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ?

And from my past experience, trust me, that old car of yours will never be the same.
Sorry about the old car but I believe it's for your own benefit.

This is the sort of misconception I have to deal with on a daily basis. It sounds like you had a bad experience in the past, or someone close to you had a bad experience. Collision shops like mine fix cars all day long. We are well trained at what we do and we do it correct. I would not attempt to fix something that was not going to be in better condition when I was completed. Steves car looks alot worse than it is. The forward section of the apron needs replaced including the headlamp bucket and front body panel. The rest of the pieces can be straightened on a celette bench with RIGID fixtures. Rigid fixtures are just that they are rigid, you cannot manipulate, adjust or fudge them in any way. You must make the car fit the fixtures, not vice versa. I am by no means going to cut another car in half and weld it to the front of Steves car. All metal replaced will be done so along the factory lines and in the same fashion in which it was placed there to begin with. When the job is completed, it will be very difficult to tell what if any repairs ever took place. I know there are many operations out there that perform the type of work you are basing your bias on, but we are not one of them. I would urge all of you to strongly investigate any shop you would have perform collision repairs for you. Are they certified (ICAR, ASE, Manufacturer)? How long have they been in business? Do some homework. I will be the first to admit that in my industry, I am a rarity. I have over 150 years of experience under my roof. All of them specializing in GERMAN collision repair. We are certified by Porsche, Mercedes and Audi. Most important thing is reputation. We value ours and will not compromise it.

[siverson]

We'll I'm almost done tearing the car done for my "re-build" and came across this surprise tonight. The inside of the drives side longitudinal is cracked. That is a crack in the metal, there is no tar (removed long ago). Anyone ever seen that?

-Steve

[siverson]

close up

BTW - the crack looks sort of old and the metal is solid there (no rust). I don't think this was caused by my off track excursion (but who knows).

-Steve

[rick 918-S]

That crack is very very common. Good to see progress!

[sean_v8_914]

common, most crack there. I could come up with 5-6 pics of 914 ive fixed that on in the last 2 yrs alone

[siverson]

Thanks for the input. Glad to hear it shouldn't be a problem...

[Steve]

That's another good reason for the Engman kit. I think Sean mentioned mine was also cracked there before he installed the Engman kit. That spot is pretty much the fulcrum point for the chassis and has the most stress on it, besides the firewall.

[siverson]

Well, I think 914 torn down as far as it needs to go. Probably a little more than was really necessary, but I plan on cleaning some things up "while I'm in there".

I made a wooden dolly to move the car around that works great in the garage, but I'm not sure if the casters are going to be strong enough to handle moving the car on a flatbed to the body shop. Hmmm... I may have to rethink that...

-Steve

[siverson]

914