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> Engine rebuild, The reassembly started !
Valy
post Sep 10 2011, 10:34 PM
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WARNING:
Horror pictures bellow. Don't scroll down if you are pregnant or have a heart condition.



Finally I split the case. The bolt behind the flywheel was the one I missed. Thanks for the help so far.

The bearing pictures are not so pretty.
Main bearing are done. Standard size bearings. After seeing the ones that come out easily, I didn't bother with the last one on the crank.

The camshaft bearings were German SK and are all junk now. 1 and 2 broke and 3 has much more wear on one side (the bigger half lost its coating and you can see the copper while the other side has still the coating on it.

Camshaft shows some wear as well. I'll probably need to replace it.

This engine was identified by the Cap'n as one rebuilt by Volkswagen Canada that, as he said, are of questionable quality. Well, the Cap'n was right, no questions here anymore.


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VaccaRabite
post Sep 11 2011, 07:23 AM
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Looks like an engine that had a lot of miles on it.

Your cam bearing journals clearly need bored out. Can you get + size cam bearings?

Get a new cam.

Pull all the studs. Have the case checked at the bearings to see if you can still use standard bearings. ALSO have it checked at the cylinder registers to make sure they are still square and not collapsing in the center.

If the case is trashed, don't just junk it. I have found it to be helpful to have a split case and crank on hand when I need to understand how something works. Like when I dropped a spring in the engine I needed to know where it would go for retrieval.

Zach
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JStroud
post Sep 11 2011, 08:37 AM
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[quote name='Valy' date='Sep 5 2011, 04:15 PM' post='1534942']
[quote name='Jake Raby' post='1534917' date='Sep 5 2011, 03:30 PM']
The lowermost pic of the oil pump shows a failing pump.. See that idler gear shaft??


Anyway, what are my alternatives for the oil pump.
[/quote]

This is a question i also have, need a GOOD alternative to the stock pump.
My rebuild is on hold this is one issue still not resolved.

Good luck with your project, I'd take the case in and get the bores and registers checked before going much further.

Jeff
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Cap'n Krusty
post Sep 11 2011, 09:06 AM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Sep 5 2011, 06:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Sep 5 2011, 12:55 PM) *

I don't see any comments about temperature sensor location in any post other than yours. The type of case has NOTHING to do with oil temp sensor fitment, and the stock one will fit fine. Second time I've seen this misguided notion in the last few days ................

The Cap'n

You're right, I didn't mention that. Zach was reading my mind. There ARE some cases which won't fit a stock 'long' oil temp sensor probe. Ran into that problem on a bus once.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif)


The temp sensor installation shown in the picture is aftermarket. With the correct taco plate, the long sensor will fit in ANY T4 case. In that part of the case, they're ALL the same.

The Cap'n
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Valy
post Sep 11 2011, 03:50 PM
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Crankshaft and Rod journals.

Some pictures of the crankshaft and the rod journals.
The crankshaft looks fine but the rod journals are not so nice. I'm not sure how those marks got there. The rod bearings are toast.



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Valy
post Oct 14 2011, 01:40 PM
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Update:
My machinist finally measured the case and it needs to be aligned bored.
Lucky for me, the +0.25 main bearings are just $50 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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SLITS
post Oct 14 2011, 01:46 PM
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The marks in the big end of the rod are from machining - cross hatching from a hone bringing them to the correct size.
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Valy
post Oct 14 2011, 04:21 PM
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QUOTE(Valy @ Oct 14 2011, 12:40 PM) *

Update:
My machinist finally measured the case and it need to be aligned bored.
Lucky for me, the +0.25 main bearings are just $50 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


I was happy too early.
Those were +0.25 on the crank and I need oversized case (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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Valy
post Oct 20 2011, 01:48 PM
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New stuff is starting to arrive!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
Here is what I received today: 96mm pistons and cylinders.
Still waiting for the oversized main bearings before any work can be done on the case.


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McMark
post Oct 20 2011, 02:36 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Sep 11 2011, 08:06 AM) *

The temp sensor installation shown in the picture is aftermarket. With the correct taco plate, the long sensor will fit in ANY T4 case. In that part of the case, they're ALL the same.

The Cap'n


Sorry Cap'n. You lose this round. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Case on the left is a GE case and the long sensor will bump into that 'skirt/fin' hanging down. BTDT.


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TheCabinetmaker
post Oct 20 2011, 02:51 PM
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Is that the top left or the bottom left? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)
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Valy
post Oct 20 2011, 07:19 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Oct 20 2011, 01:36 PM) *

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Sep 11 2011, 08:06 AM) *

The temp sensor installation shown in the picture is aftermarket. With the correct taco plate, the long sensor will fit in ANY T4 case. In that part of the case, they're ALL the same.

The Cap'n


Sorry Cap'n. You lose this round. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Case on the left is a GE case and the long sensor will bump into that 'skirt/fin' hanging down. BTDT.


Good to know. I may cut that fin down or use a different sensor configuration.
I have both the original taco plate with the built-in sensor and a modified non-sensor one, drilled to accommodate a short sensor.
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Valy
post Oct 20 2011, 07:42 PM
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Those are AA pistons.

Measured the ring gaps in the cylinder (spec values):
1st: 0.432mm (0.35-0.9mm)
2nd: 0.483mm (0.3-0.9mm)
Oil: 0.533mm (0.25-0.95mm)

Piston ring width (strange, but looks like SAE dimensions)
1st: 1/6" 1.59mm
2nd: 1/6" 1.59mm
Oil: 3/6" 4.76mm


Piston clearance in the cylinder:
Cylinders are 96.00mm and pistons are 95.94mm
0.06mm (0.02-0.20mm)

Compression height (piston pin center to piston head)
35mm

Piston pin hole
24mm
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Valy
post Nov 11 2011, 01:41 PM
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Cam is here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Lift is 8.2mm (0.323") on each lobe although intake and exhaust lobes have different dimensions. Accounting for the x1.3 rocker ratio this is 10.66mm (0.420")
This is a bit lower than the cam card 0.426" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

The lifters are solid lifters but look a bit like the hydraulic ones. You can see a moving part inside the lifter hold by a C clip. There is no spring and valve behind it. Maybe this will make the valves a bit more quieter.

Lifter diameter is actually 23.98mm so it's within spec. My micrometer was not calibrated to the lower outside temperature.

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MartyYeoman
post Nov 11 2011, 02:14 PM
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What WebCam part number is your cam?
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Valy
post Nov 11 2011, 02:45 PM
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QUOTE(Marty Yeoman @ Nov 11 2011, 12:14 PM) *

What WebCam part number is your cam?

It's a custom grind.
224/229 at 0.05" lift. max lift 0.426
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AndyB
post Nov 11 2011, 05:00 PM
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So thats not a Raby Cam?
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Valy
post Nov 11 2011, 05:16 PM
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QUOTE(Scarlet75 @ Nov 11 2011, 03:00 PM) *

So thats not a Raby Cam?

Nope. I bought it from Webcam.
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Valy
post Nov 11 2011, 05:42 PM
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Strange but true, the bolts that hold the gear on the cam are not metric.
5/16" diameter, 1/2" length, 1/24" thread.

I initially thought those are fine thread 8mm/1mm but was wrong.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
The rings size is SAE, now this, why is everything aftermarket SAE?
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McMark
post Nov 11 2011, 06:57 PM
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Because the tool suppliers have cheaper prices for SAE tools/machines due to demand. It's costs more to be metric in the US.

This seems like a perfect time to go on a rant. I HATE SAE! It makes no sense and it's a pain in my ass every time I have to deal with it.
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