Engine rebuild, The reassembly started ! Options

[Kansas 914]

Because the tool suppliers have cheaper prices for SAE tools/machines due to demand. It's costs more to be metric in the US.

This seems like a perfect time to go on a rant. I HATE SAE! It makes to sense and it's a pain in my ass every time I have to deal with it.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Only in America......

[jcd914]

Because the tool suppliers have cheaper prices for SAE tools/machines due to demand. It's costs more to be metric in the US.

This seems like a perfect time to go on a rant. I HATE SAE! It makes to sense and it's a pain in my ass every time I have to deal with it.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Only in America......

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[Valy]

Main bearings arrived this morning.

Those are +0.5/STD

[MartyYeoman]

What WebCam part number is your cam?

It's a custom grind.
224/229 at 0.05" lift. max lift 0.426

Your grind looks a lot like WebCam #73.
Why the deviations? First from stock and second from the #73?

[Valy]

What WebCam part number is your cam?

It's a custom grind.
224/229 at 0.05" lift. max lift 0.426

Your grind looks a lot like WebCam #73.
Why the deviations? First from stock and second from the #73?

The Type 4 heads have a relative restricted air flow, especially for exhaust. Therefore, for more power you need more air to get in and out of the cylinders.

[pilothyer]

Valy, where's the rest of the story?

[Valy]

Valy, where's the rest of the story?

The engine parts are still in the shop. The guy does good work but he's so sloooooooooooow.
Most of the work is done: rods, crank, flywheel, case rebored, everything balanced, clutch resurfaced.
Waiting for heads and oil galey plugs.

[Dave_Darling]

Must be German Precision. That's what (almost) everyone says about them.

--DD

[jimbot2000]

Because the tool suppliers have cheaper prices for SAE tools/machines due to demand. It's costs more to be metric in the US.

This seems like a perfect time to go on a rant. I HATE SAE! It makes to sense and it's a pain in my ass every time I have to deal with it.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Only in America......

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I moved to Germany, just so I could through away all my SAE tools! Then I realized, I still have an Austin Healey....... So I kept them. But the beer is better here, so it's not a total loss (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[worn]

Because the tool suppliers have cheaper prices for SAE tools/machines due to demand. It's costs more to be metric in the US.

This seems like a perfect time to go on a rant. I HATE SAE! It makes no sense and it's a pain in my ass every time I have to deal with it.

Try using metric on an old English or American car! The scary region is where one will thread - sort of- into another. I received a "restoration" part for my TR6 that without mentioning it had replaced the side marker lamp studs with metric, but oh so close to SAE. To top it off it was from China, so I figured that they had just threaded it wrong to save material - which appears to be common. My TR6 has a single metric thread - the brake caliper tubing. The plan was to convert over time - or go out of business.

Also off topic - what does the dancing weenie mean?

[Valy]

Wow, the world was down for such a long time exactly when my rebuild started.
I posted some updates on the 914club.com forum but I'm going to continue my thread here. Hope this site doesn't go down again.

[Valy]

Oil Pump

After my oil pump saga described in the previous posts, I decided to go with a new Type 1, flat cam, 26mm aluminum oil pump. I didn't like the Melling steel pump since the heat expansion of steel is less than aluminum so at high temperatures the pump leaks into the case.

I also got a nice aluminum pump cover. Some will say that the aluminum cover will wear out faster than the steel one but that is misleading as there are no axial forces on the pump gears to cause the wear, except a too tight fit of the cover. In the later case, the wear is fine as is just the pump brake in. The original Type 4 pump was full aluminum so I have no worries.

The new pump has a perfect fit into the case hole without any play but its pinion is a bit too long and pushes the camshaft. Also, the inlet and outlet don't overlap 100% with the case.
One solution for everything would be a 1.5-2mm spacer between the pump and the case, just where the pump gasket sits. I didn't like the idea as it may cause leaks down the road.
I chose to trim the driving pinion, pump case and idle shaft about 2mm and also make a thicker gasket for the pump. I also opened a bit the case oil galleys just in case I'll need to change the pump without taking apart the short-block.

[Valy]

Oil Galleys Plugs

I had the main oil galleys plugs removed and tapped them for pipe plugs (3/8").
I cleaned the case well and then cleaned some more and some more again. Toock the opportunity to clean the oil galleys with a round brush.

Then I put some sealant on the plug threads and in the hole as well and installed the plugs in the case.

Before:


After:

[Valy]

Gaskets

I had to make a thicker gasket for my oil pump to align it better with the case oil galleys.
I also had to make a gasket for my Bus dipstick block-off plate (I have a universal replacement case)
I had an old template for the oil sump gaskets on hand as well so I decided to combine all of them in one template and add the remaining gaskets as well.

A brown paper bag works perfectly for the thin gaskets.
For the thicker ones, I used a cereals box. The Costco one was better since the cardboard is a bit thicker as the box is bigger. Always use sealant on the gaskets for better fit.

I recommend to use the PDF version for better print scaling.

[Valy]

Crankshaft

I re-built the crankshaft assembly.
The crank is a 2.0L 71mm STD crank. It was polished and balanced together with the fan, flywheel and clutch.

I used the flywheel as a stand and fixed the crank into it in vertical position.
I gave it a good cleaning, including inside all the oiling passages.
I heated the camshaft and dizzy gears on a small camping stove I had nearby and then mounted them on the crank.
The big c-clip was a PITA to fit but I finally got it in there.

[euro911]

Hey Val, is that AL pump cover plate a tad thicker than the original one?

I noticed some [minor] seepage from my plate (and it's a brand new pump with less than 600 miles since the rebuild!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I'm thinking a thicker plate won't warp or bend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Valy]

Hey Val, is that AL pump cover plate a tad thicker than the original one?

I noticed some [minor] seepage from my plate (and it's a brand new pump with less than 600 miles since the rebuild!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I'm thinking a thicker plate won't warp or bend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

It's quite thicker than the steel one. I think is about 5-7mm thick (I can check later at home) and its billed so it has no stress in it. I see no reason it will bend as there are no forces to bend it.

Could it be that your cover sits on the pump gears instead of the pump body?
Is your camshaft pushing the pump shaft into the cover?
I would take the cover off and check it for wear. If there are excessive signs, you need to trim the shaft a bit and replace the cover.

[Valy]

Connecting Rods

I had the connecting rods reconditioned and re-balanced. They turned out very nice. See the difference between the before and after pictures.
I cleaned them well and installed the new bearings. Then I lubricated the journals and bearing and installed the rods on the crank.

Rod before:

Rod after:

[Valy]

One very important remark regarding rod assembly that I was too tired to write last evening:

The rod nuts should be torqued to 23.9 ft*lbs when oiled. Oiled torque is equivalent to about 30% higher dry torque (31 ft*lbs when dry).
I mention this here since both the Tom Wilson manual and Jake video are misleading on this point.

Tom recommends to use Loctite thread locker on the nuts to prevent them from unlocking. This requires the threads to be completely clean and dry before they are torqued so the actual torque on the nut will be 23% lower than specified. The Loctite might help a bit here but I wouldn't count on it too much over time. Maybe he's adding the Loctite to compensate for his previous errors of tightening those nuts too low but two wrongs don't make one right.

Jake shows how he degrees the rods with carb cleaner and then drys them with compressed air, just before asembly. Then he torques them to 24 ft*lbs dry. Again, that torque is 30% lower than specified. I guess that in the process of showing how well he cleans the rods and bearings and the video editing, the thread lubrication was lost.

[Valy]

Camshaft

I'm using a new camshaft. This is special cam I ordered from Webcam, similar to their #73 but with a longer duration on the exhaust to help the gases escape and keep the heads a bit cooler. It also improves the performance just a bit.

CODE

                     | Intake   | Exhaust
---------------------+----------+----------
Valve Lash (Inch):   | 0.006"   | 0.006"
Valve Lift (Inch):   | 0.426    | 0.426
Valve Lift (mm):     | 10.82    | 10.82
Advertised Duration: | 262°     | 267°
Duration @ 0.050":   | 224°     | 229°
Lobe Center:         | 108°     | 108°

The new camshaft needs to be bolted to the cam gear. I had the cam gear holes clearanced for the bolts heads. The cam came with bolts that have a smaller head thickens to help clear the oil pump.
I had to trim the bolts length a little to clear the case on the back of the cam gear.
After all the dry measurements, I added a bit of thread locker to the bolts to make sure they don't come loose.