Apollo Racer Build Thread, Numeric 981 Shifter Upgrade Options

[76-914]

Weld a bolt on the end of that all thread. The steel of that all thread is much too mild for that purpose. Between all of us, we may come up with a "one size fits all" cooling solution. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[rnellums]

That does sound like a good day! Is your front inlet still the same size or at least sealed off for more directed cooling? And which part of your linkage was the allthread?

The inlet was slightly larger than previously, but was better ducted. The clutch uses the stock clutch cable roped to a bellcrank that pulls the linkage to the clutch fork. That linkage broke. Just using a steel cable should work nicely!

Weld a bolt on the end of that all thread. The steel of that all thread is much too mild for that purpose. Between all of us, we may come up with a "one size fits all" cooling solution. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

I keep going someone else well come up with a cooling solution that fits in the engine bay or conserved the front trunk. I'm sure someone will get there eventually!

I'm planning on switching to a hardened steel rid with custom cut threads for the new linkage.

[Chris H.]

Ross,

Have you seen this site?

Blue Thunder

Looks like what you want to do. Running a Buick 3.8L...take a look at his setup. That radiator looks pretty big as does the fan. He also angled the radiator a bit. Long time member, very nice guy.

If he can get that thing cool you can get yours under control.

[rnellums]

Well for anyone who hasn't seen my Calypso thread, I damaged the front of Apollo a week or so ago.




Its going to get fixed, but in the meantime I'm going to be starting to document the custom header setup I'll be building to replace my current pipes.


What I'm using currently is an aftermarket OBX header set that I chopped off before the collector and welded on two Harley Davidson motorcycle resonators.




The upside is this system is incredibly simple. The downside is twofold:

First, the pipes are routed underneath Ian's cradle, which severely impacts my ground clearance (makes me cringe anytime I go over any bump)






Second, the mufflers (resonators) are each built to handle 800cc spinning at 5500 RPM (2200 L/min), and I'm trying to force 1500 cc through them spinning at 6500 RPM (4875 L/min).

Marty at MSDS sent me an assortment of mandrel bends (some remnants, some new) which should be enough to get me started! I can't say enough how much I appreciate what Marty and MSDS do for our community, He has certainly been a big help to me!



I also got a couple race resonators from Mark Z at Autoworks in Littleton.

They'll probably be too loud by themselves for street driving, so I'll likely end up porting them into a magnaflow 2 in 2 out muffler like this guy did on his 911.

[rnellums]

Or These 911's:

[rnellums]

My current is to use 2" pipes for the initial exit from the header because the bends have a tighter radius, and then transition to a 2.5" pipe at a flange where it passes through Ian's cradle. I'm not planning to do any flex pipes as the entire exhaust system will be hard mounted to the engine and transmission, which is soft mounted to the frame. Thoughts?

[Chris H.]

Bob's car was very quiet (for a Subaru). He did two mufflers into a center muffler. Here is a pic..

muffler

[DBCooper]

You can use a regular Camaro muffler, two in two out, that crosses between the transmission and the valance, fits and works great, cheap, super easy to plumb, and an outlet on either side is kind of different. And you can choose the brand, Magnaflow or whatever, according to the loudness/sound you prefer. Or alternatively, what would be my favorite, a two in one out Porsche performance banana. Problem with that one is what transmission you used and how much clearance the cradle positioning the tranny left between the end of the transmission and the valance. Need to measure. That would give you that Porsche six sound, if that's something you like.

[rnellums]

You can use a regular Camaro muffler, two in two out, that crosses between the transmission and the valance, fits and works great, cheap, super easy to plumb, and an outlet on either side is kind of different. And you can choose the brand, Magnaflow or whatever, according to the loudness/sound you prefer. Or alternatively, what would be my favorite, a two in one out Porsche performance banana. Problem with that one is what transmission you used and how much clearance the cradle positioning the tranny left between the end of the transmission and the valance. Need to measure. That would give you that Porsche six sound, if that's something you like.

The Camaro muffler is almost exactly what I was thinking.

The Porsche performance banana muffler would be great, but i don't know if it is worth the extra cost to me.

[rnellums]

I just drew a flange up in SW based on a scaled photo I took of my flange gaskets.

I'll probably have these water-jet cut out of 3/8" mild steel if anyone else is interested. Having 4,6,8, or 10 cut is only going to be marginally more expensive than having 2 cut.

[BIGKAT_83]

These people have EZ30D flanges in stock

Bob (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[rnellums]

These people have EZ30D flanges in stock

Bob (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I was hoping someone would chime in with something like that! I'll put them on order tomorrow!

[76-914]

I'd still be working on my car if it weren't for Bob's Hints!

[914GTSTI]

Don't know if you read this ? May help with the heating problem ? Motor is a 33 and may not apply.

Eg33 swapped 2002 WRX owner right here. Partial install shot right here.



http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthr...gine-swap/page8

Some things:

1) Do not skimp on cooling on this motor. They have cooling system issues with pump cavitation at elevated RPMs and will boil coolant quite easily if used on track in OEM format. It's highly suggested that you remove the thermostat from behind the water pump inlet, and move it into a universal thermostat housing in the upper rad hose. This is the best and most simple start to a series of small mods to assist the cooling. Stepping up the inlet neck to about 40mm also assists the matter.

2) Get an oil cooler on it, period. Oil temps in these motor skyrocket without one.

3)#5 con rod is the one that like to blow due to oil starvation at high rpms. Motor like heavywiehgt oil.

4)This motor loves to breath. Cams and porting will be it's best friend.


etc etc. I've got more for you if needed.

Been driving my car every day, swinging to 7500 all day long.

Crossover tube in the exhaust messes with the scavenging effect that makes the IRIS effect shine in the plenum(essentially two stage runner length tuning on the fly)

PM or post if you have more questions. I can take other pics of my car if wanted

[rnellums]

Don't know if you read this ? May help with the heating problem ? Motor is a 33 and may not apply.

Eg33 swapped 2002 WRX owner right here. Partial install shot right here.

I hadn't read that one, but I have heard that non OEM thermostats can have difficulty with insufficient coolant bypass, and that opening up the bypass hole a bit can help.

My cooling difficulties only manifest under load at speed (like on the highway). my impression is that the coolant is not spending enough time in the radiator to shed sufficient heat when the pump is moving coolant quickly.

I just put in an order for a larger capacity radiator with more tubes that will hopefully slow down the coolant velocity through the radiator while keeping the overall flow rate constant!

[914GTSTI]

Here is another one. (VERY LONG) I have not readed it yet.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51702

I'm looking into rethinking a EJ20T swap and going EG33.
Randy

[rnellums]

Here is another one. (VERY LONG) I have not readed it yet.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51702

I'm looking into rethinking a EJ20T swap and going EG33.
Randy

I have gone back and forth over wether or not I should have gone with the EG33 vs the EZ30.

EG33 has a lot to recommend it, like cheaper, more aftermarket support, more stock power.

EZ30 is more modern, easier to find a low mileage motor, longer maintenance intervals (timing chain vs. belt), and its physically smaller and lighter.

I guess if I had a do-over I might choose the EG33, but the proof is in the pudding. I'l stick with what I've got until someone with an EG33 conversion lets me take it for a spin (you hear me Mike? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) )

[mgp4591]

Here is another one. (VERY LONG) I have not readed it yet.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51702

I'm looking into rethinking a EJ20T swap and going EG33.
Randy

I have gone back and forth over wether or not I should have gone with the EG33 vs the EZ30.

EG33 has a lot to recommend it, like cheaper, more aftermarket support, more stock power.

EZ30 is more modern, easier to find a low mileage motor, longer maintenance intervals (timing chain vs. belt), and its physically smaller and lighter.

I guess if I had a do-over I might choose the EG33, but the proof is in the pudding. I'l stick with what I've got until someone with an EG33 conversion lets me take it for a spin (you hear me Mike? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) )

Yeah, I got ya! I've gotta take it for a spin first tho...! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[Chris H.]

Hey if you ever come back this way Ross you can drive mine (but not in the snow). Need to get a couple things done first, but late Spring we should be all set.

I drove Bob's EZ car and it feels pretty much the same as mine power-wise. Plenty. You'll get that exhaust thing sorted and the cooling situation and be good to go. His never got hot and we definitely gave it a reason to. Needle never even moved.

[BIGKAT_83]

I've had both engines in my car. I think the EZ30D is faster than the EG33. The main reason I went from the EG33 to the EZ30 was the size and avialblity of parts for the new engine verses the old one.

I also have a EZ30R engine. These are the one to have 250HP. Megasquirt now has the code to run these. Now you don't need a $2500+ ECU swap these into a 914