Apollo Racer Build Thread, Numeric 981 Shifter Upgrade |
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Apollo Racer Build Thread, Numeric 981 Shifter Upgrade |
rnellums |
Feb 2 2015, 10:22 AM
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#241
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Professional Enthusiast Group: Members Posts: 1,667 Joined: 26-November 09 From: Littleton, CO Member No.: 11,072 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I've had both engines in my car. I think the EZ30D is faster than the EG33. The main reason I went from the EG33 to the EZ30 was the size and avialblity of parts for the new engine verses the old one. I also have a EZ30R engine. These are the one to have 250HP. Megasquirt now has the code to run these. Now you don't need a $2500+ ECU swap these into a 914 The 30R will be my engine of choice for the next upgrade then! How much continual tuning is required when running megasquirt? |
BIGKAT_83 |
Feb 2 2015, 11:35 AM
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#242
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,798 Joined: 25-January 03 From: Way down south Bogart,GA Member No.: 194 Region Association: South East States |
I've had both engines in my car. I think the EZ30D is faster than the EG33. The main reason I went from the EG33 to the EZ30 was the size and avialblity of parts for the new engine verses the old one. I also have a EZ30R engine. These are the one to have 250HP. Megasquirt now has the code to run these. Now you don't need a $2500+ ECU swap these into a 914 The 30R will be my engine of choice for the next upgrade then! How much continual tuning is required when running megasquirt? I have not touched the megasquirt on my EZ30D in over a year. Bob |
914GTSTI |
Feb 2 2015, 01:49 PM
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#243
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Member Group: Members Posts: 270 Joined: 16-September 07 From: Glendale AZ Member No.: 8,123 Region Association: None |
Here is another souse for exhaust parts.
http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/exhaust_systems.htm |
914forme |
Feb 3 2015, 01:48 PM
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#244
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
Don't know if you read this ? May help with the heating problem ? Motor is a 33 and may not apply. Here is the summary page for the entire heating issue it might still be valid for other subaru engines. |
rnellums |
Feb 8 2015, 06:27 PM
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#245
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Professional Enthusiast Group: Members Posts: 1,667 Joined: 26-November 09 From: Littleton, CO Member No.: 11,072 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Im working on a set of headers that gives me more ground clearance and also is a bit freer flowing. With 2.5" pipes this is the best I could do to clear Ian's sub frame. I have some 2" pipe bends that might be able to exit a bit straighter, but are much smaller diameter.
I could also modify Ians cradle to buy some more room. Any input is appreciated! Attached thumbnail(s) |
914forme |
Feb 8 2015, 08:03 PM
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#246
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
They look nice, I like them, would love to see it bolted to the engine and how its going the thread through the cold water cradle. Still haven't figured out why Subaru went back to a common port? But heck 250 HP it must be working for them.
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JRust |
Feb 8 2015, 08:28 PM
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#247
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,312 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Im working on a set of headers that gives me more ground clearance and also is a bit freer flowing. With 2.5" pipes this is the best I could do to clear Ian's sub frame. I have some 2" pipe bends that might be able to exit a bit straighter, but are much smaller diameter. I could also modify Ians cradle to buy some more room. Any input is appreciated! I think the only way to not have it drop below the cradle. Is to bring the headers to the front (towards firewall) Then join them or keep them separate but loop them back Down the sides above the cradle. Doable with a pipe bender. Another reason I was thinking of either doing a different mount that came from the firewall. Or bringing my exhaust forward then wrapping it around back. I hate that it drops below my cradle |
rnellums |
Feb 8 2015, 08:43 PM
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#248
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Professional Enthusiast Group: Members Posts: 1,667 Joined: 26-November 09 From: Littleton, CO Member No.: 11,072 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
They look nice, I like them, would love to see it bolted to the engine and how its going the thread through the cold water cradle. Still haven't figured out why Subaru went back to a common port? But heck 250 HP it must be working for them. I'll see if I can get that shot. I think the only way to not have it drop below the cradle. Is to bring the headers to the front (towards firewall) Then join them or keep them separate but loop them back Down the sides above the cradle. Doable with a pipe bender. Another reason I was thinking of either doing a different mount that came from the firewall. Or bringing my exhaust forward then wrapping it around back. I hate that it drops below my cradle I looked at that, but with the water line return and shift cables where they ate at that looks like a big headache. As built these come back up above the cradle and should be able to head above the axles from there. The whole thing should work or pretty smoothly, but I'm wondering how much power I would lose by having such a sharp angle right at the exit. |
rnellums |
Feb 8 2015, 09:39 PM
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#249
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Professional Enthusiast Group: Members Posts: 1,667 Joined: 26-November 09 From: Littleton, CO Member No.: 11,072 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
With the current header mounted on the engine
Attached thumbnail(s) |
mgp4591 |
Feb 8 2015, 10:07 PM
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#250
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,518 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
I'm wondering about that angle too... and if it's really that close to your inside CV boot the heat is gonna be a problem. Subaru has a similar heat problem on the r. inner boot because it sits right above the headpipe Y and catalytic converter- lots of heat. How about a large pipe section, like 3-4 inch schedule 40 pipe intersecting the cradle for your pipe to pass through at a different angle? You could gusset it also for extra strength... I can't see all the angles so I may be way off base on that suggestion. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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rnellums |
Feb 8 2015, 10:17 PM
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#251
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Professional Enthusiast Group: Members Posts: 1,667 Joined: 26-November 09 From: Littleton, CO Member No.: 11,072 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
It's not quite as close to the CV as it looks in the photos, but I'll have to insulate it somehow. I thought about welding in a pass through, I may go that route if this doesn't look promising.
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JRust |
Feb 8 2015, 10:49 PM
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#252
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,312 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
That looks better than I expected Ross. I was still picturing it looping under the cradle. I think that is going to work just fine. I don't think the angle of the header where it comes off the head will cause any flow problems either. I think you'll be golden with that man. Can't wait to see the finished product (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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Chris H. |
Feb 9 2015, 07:17 AM
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#253
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,050 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
If you like the way it turns out you should get it ceramic coated to reduce the exterior heat. Much better than wrapping it.
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914forme |
Feb 9 2015, 07:34 AM
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#254
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
I like it, get it all tacked up. Weld it up outside the car, clean it up. Get it ceramic coated, then have an inner coating applied. And if need be make a heat shield around the CVs. area, it only takes a small gap to protect. And if you Coat it also, thats a plus.
Eastwood makes a DIY coating for the inside of your exhaust.Eastwood internal exhust coating and heat barrier. I have not used it. |
gryphon68 |
Feb 9 2015, 11:25 AM
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#255
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Member Group: Members Posts: 61 Joined: 2-October 13 From: SE Michigan Member No.: 16,462 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Looks pretty good. Hoping to have the need to refer back to this thread soon. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
It's nice how the slash cut gave a nice port shape opening. Would be nice to get the pipe pointed slightly more outboard to maximize the clearance to the boot. I was looking something like this as a possible option: http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C76-568/ They are pricey, but can solve problems the normal off the shelf bends can't. |
mgp4591 |
Feb 9 2015, 11:31 AM
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#256
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,518 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
Looks pretty good. Hoping to have the need to refer back to this thread soon. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) It's nice how the slash cut gave a nice port shape opening. Would be nice to get the pipe pointed slightly more outboard to maximize the clearance to the boot. I was looking something like this as a possible option: http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C76-568/ They are pricey, but can solve problems the normal off the shelf bends can't. I've used those donuts and they work great for the tight angles and keeping flow rates up without restriction. Well worth the cash! |
gryphon68 |
Feb 9 2015, 12:10 PM
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#257
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Member Group: Members Posts: 61 Joined: 2-October 13 From: SE Michigan Member No.: 16,462 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Maybe cut here and clock the pipe outboard?
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rnellums |
Feb 9 2015, 02:03 PM
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#258
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Professional Enthusiast Group: Members Posts: 1,667 Joined: 26-November 09 From: Littleton, CO Member No.: 11,072 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Would be nice to get the pipe pointed slightly more outboard to maximize the clearance to the boot. I was looking something like this as a possible option: http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C76-568/ They are pricey, but can solve problems the normal off the shelf bends can't. The tube does need to be massaged a bit to fit the opening, but nothing that can't be handled by a hammer and some pliers! Those bends are sweet! Unfortunately one doughnut is more than I have paid for everything so far! It might be worth it though to minimize the restrictions! Maybe I'll use it for the second exhaust revision! As far as going more outboard, the clearance gets worse and worse the further out you go due to the cradle supports. My clearance off the cv is fair, the photos make it look close than it really is. I plan to do a flange at the end of the first bend to make installation simpler, which should make fabricating a new header sub using doughnuts a bit easier if I do that route down the line. |
rnellums |
Feb 9 2015, 08:20 PM
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#259
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Professional Enthusiast Group: Members Posts: 1,667 Joined: 26-November 09 From: Littleton, CO Member No.: 11,072 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I welded the headers up tonight. The weeks are a bit taller than I'd like, but I think they'll hold.
Attached thumbnail(s) |
rnellums |
Feb 10 2015, 09:54 PM
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#260
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Professional Enthusiast Group: Members Posts: 1,667 Joined: 26-November 09 From: Littleton, CO Member No.: 11,072 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I got my O2 sensor bungs welded in tonight.
I have a pair of magnaflow 6" dia x 6" long race mufflers that I slid over the header ends as a gut check. The exhaust had a nice deep rumble, but was still pretty loud. Video at link below. EZ30 with Magnaflow Race Mufflers I'm thinking I'll need a bit more muffling, but the dual in/out setup I wanted to try won't fit behind the transmission. It looks like I'll be sticking with dual straight exits, but I'll go to a larger 6"dia muffler, like magnaflow's 12616. |
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