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> Tdc with no viewing ports?
Radmacdaddy
post Oct 10 2011, 11:40 AM
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QUOTE(messix @ Oct 10 2011, 01:33 PM) *

Check the spark plug wires, do you have a volt ohm meter? Check the ohm resistance of the wires. A high resistance on a wire or two can cause misfire underpower and if realy bad at idle'


I don't have a volt meter. I'm getting flush here and will buy a tool if it will really make a dif... but careful about it.

Spark is good, though the cables are not new. They were put in in May.

Thing it, these two were the strong pair before I replaces the rings on the opposite two. Very little miles between them being the strong pair, replacing the rings and now them not doing much of anything. Drove about ten exits in Phoenix.

can't figure what might have changed in there.
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wingnut86
post Oct 10 2011, 01:12 PM
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Randy,

If you want to verify the cable suggestion, take the cables off and walk into the Walmart electronics section or back in the auto area and use their off the shelf meters, their cost, to see if they are something you would want to purchase or not.

Hint, hint, nod, nod...

Remember to use OPT or Other People's Tools in a case like this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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r_towle
post Oct 10 2011, 01:38 PM
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So,
You think you have the valves sorted.
What makes you think you have two cylinders that are not firing?

Take a picture of the motor with the distributor cap in place and all the wires hooked up please.
Lets take a look at two things.
Where is the rotor pointing when you think you are at TDC for cylinder number one....
Where is the number one plug wire in relation to where the rotor is pointing?

Intake valve opens....you suck in air..
Intake valve closes.
Compression stroke happens...piston goes up to TDC
Spark happens
Piston goes down on the power stroke.
Piston starts heading up, exhaust valve opens.
Exhaust valve closes, intake valve starts to open...
4 cycles start all over again.

So, given that.
Look at where the rotor is pointing when the number 1 cylinder intake valve is just opening.
Then rotate the motor through the intake stroke...with the plugs installled, you will feel the power stroke.
Watch the valve on number one
When the Intake valve closes..and you are coming up to the TDC portion of the cycle...show me where the rotor is pointed at that exact time.
Should be near the notch in the distibutor.

Do it again.
Intake valve opens
Stroke goes down (180 degrees of crankshaft rotation)
Stroke goes up (remaining 180 degrees of rotation)
Spark happens...this is when the distributor should have the rotor pointed at the number one cylinder mark...the hash mark on the distributor body.

The distributor is geared, it will only land on the proper plug in question once per all 4 cycles.
Watch the valves to find the TDC part of the cycle...
With the plugs installed, you will feel the pressure build, then release.

Rich
Rich
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wingnut86
post Oct 10 2011, 09:06 PM
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Rad,

Are you making headway?

Rolling towards Cali?

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Radmacdaddy
post Oct 11 2011, 11:49 AM
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So, thanks to R_towle's great advise I rebuilt the carb and found that I had not secured the 3&4 intake manifold properly after the ring install... This was because I had only taken the right side apart, realizing I could do that to deal with the 1&2 alone. I had already loosened the 3&4 mani before realizing that. So it was an oversight on my part in a big way.

Rebuilding the carb found a lot of residue on the main valve. So flooding was certainly occurring.

This morning I followed R_Towle's advise again and changed my oil after driving only a few miles to get nice and hot, and get as much crap out of there as possible.

He and I worked together to get 3&4 firing and I'm firing on all four now.

After hopping onto the highway towards Flagstaff (north of Phoenix-the Cali trip is awash since I had to spend so much time in Phoenix (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) , I noted that she was great in 1-3 gear with power, but in 4th lacked guts. I've then called up Doug's Bugs & Bunnies here- a GREAT shop where they helped me do a lot of fixing Saturday (had it not been a holiday weekend I would have stayed there and worked at it there for sure). Fish there suggested I call Wedge VW on the side of town I'm in, as they are swamped after the holiday weekend and Paul here told me to come in.

Presently Rich here has her hooked up to a machine to fine tune it... what R_towle & I decided was the best thing to do at this point and get it through it's last 10% that it can run in the present situation.

It's been one hell of an adventure so far!

HUGE thanks to Wingnut86 as well... he stayed on the phone with me for hours supporting me and troubleshooting with me.
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Radmacdaddy
post Oct 11 2011, 12:00 PM
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I just flew out to Ariz to buy a vanagon and drive it home.

I spent three days in Phoenix rebuilding the engine in a few parking lots. PResently I am at Wedge VW getting her fine tuned.

I'll be on the road soon and am looking for support along the way should I need it.

Shops, friends, enthusiasts... anything.

I'll be going Phoenix, Show Low, Holbrook, AZ-Gallup, Albuquerque, NM-Amarillo, TX-Oklahoma City, OK-St. Louis, MI-Indianapolis-IN, Columbus, OH-Pittsburgh, PA-Albany, NY-Home to Johnson, VT via Burlington.

I have a porsche 2.0l in this 1980 vanagon.

Thanks for your support!

Pics are me replacing rings in one lot, rebuilding carb in another.
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Radmacdaddy
post Oct 11 2011, 12:00 PM
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I just flew out to Ariz to buy a vanagon and drive it home.

I spent three days in Phoenix rebuilding the engine in a few parking lots. PResently I am at Wedge VW getting her fine tuned.

I'll be on the road soon and am looking for support along the way should I need it.

Shops, friends, enthusiasts... anything.

I'll be going Phoenix, Show Low, Holbrook, AZ-Gallup, Albuquerque, NM-Amarillo, TX-Oklahoma City, OK-St. Louis, MI-Indianapolis-IN, Columbus, OH-Pittsburgh, PA-Albany, NY-Home to Johnson, VT via Burlington.

I have a porsche 2.0l in this 1980 vanagon.

Thanks for your support!

Pics are me replacing rings in one lot, rebuilding carb in another.
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URY914
post Oct 11 2011, 12:26 PM
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r_towle
post Oct 11 2011, 12:42 PM
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so,
Can he get it running perfect?
Enough to drag it home to VT?


Rich
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wingnut86
post Oct 11 2011, 01:22 PM
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if not, he can add a NOS bottle and FLY the rest of the way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Good luck Randy...

P.S. Invoice is in the mail (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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wingnut86
post Oct 11 2011, 02:55 PM
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RMD,

Any update on the repairs? Just wondering since you need to have spring retainers installed for both heads or chance push rod and valvetrain issues on the way home.

Also, might be good to ask them to verify the operation of the cooling flaps and leave any air conditioning on 2/70 until you get back to VT.


Dave




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KELTY360
post Oct 11 2011, 07:27 PM
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Did the heavy smoke dissipate?
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Radmacdaddy
post Oct 12 2011, 05:16 AM
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My trip from Phoenix to Show low(where I bought the van & is en route with my eastern trip) was long. 4-5 hrs to get 190 mi. Mainly this was due to going from Phoenix elevation (1100ft) to show low elevation (7000) while returning a good 2000 each time I crested three mountains!

If that's not a test on an engine, I don't know what is.

I made it by 7pm and settled in for a bit of dinner & a movie with my son. In the morning I'll replace the carb, one of the big needs here.

But... Bad news is that I have a serious oil leak that cost me about 7 qts over that part of the journey.

It's all coming out the side I did the head on-3&4 from what I can see. I'll run the engine for a good half hour tomorrow the. Wipe it down good and look for the source. I'm thinking lifter tubes.

I have 3 1/2 gallons of oil, thankfully Walmart has $10 gallons.

I'm not sure how to get those retainer rings to where I am, being that I'm nowhere long???

Thanks for keeping posted. If you see a puff of smoke drive by, it's probably me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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wingnut86
post Oct 12 2011, 05:41 AM
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Reach out here or on TheSamba and have a set of spring retainers, valve cover gaskets and oil cooler seals (jic) sent ahead to a hold for pickup FedEx location en route. Leaking that much is also starving your crank and cam bearings and raising overall temperatures. You don't want to replace another head.
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TheCabinetmaker
post Oct 12 2011, 07:35 AM
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There are several 914 guys in Albuquerque who could probably help you out. Most of them hang out on the NARP site. I'll PM you my phone # if you come thru Tulsa, but I'll be at MUSR this weekend.
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TheCabinetmaker
post Oct 12 2011, 07:37 AM
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Also, the Bughaus (one of the largest internet vw parts houses) is located in Tulsa. He's got about anything you need in stock.
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Radmacdaddy
post Oct 12 2011, 11:08 AM
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New Carb pics...

just installed, going for a test drive:


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TheCabinetmaker
post Oct 12 2011, 11:49 AM
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Why the rtv?
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r_towle
post Oct 12 2011, 01:35 PM
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Randy,

Go this way home....
Check it out...
http://www.914musr.com/musr/
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wingnut86
post Oct 12 2011, 01:36 PM
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He's out of Duct Tape...

<grin>

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