Steel fuel lines through center tunnel question Options

[Demick]

I'll be taking advantage of my engine being out to move my fuel pump to the front and run steel fuel lines through the center tunnel. I know many of you have done this. I just have one question:

Regarding the ~30 degree bend that happens near the front firewall to go through the front gromet: can I put this bend in the tube first and then insert it all the way through the rear firewall and up to the front? Or do I need to somehow add that bend with the tube already in place (maybe insert it too far so that I can make the bend in the fuel tank area and then pull the tube back to it's proper place). I thought I remembered making the bend first, but it seems like it would be awfully hard to get it through the center tunnel with the tube already bent.

Just wondering what the easiest way is.

Thanks
Demick

[scotty]

...bend it first I think (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) Having carbs, I just used aluminium and just pulled as I went

[skline]

I just did mine and I bent it after I got it through, it was a real pain to do it that way but I too figured that it would be hard to get it through with the bend. I didnt ask anyones opinion before hand and just did it. With the interior all out and the engine out, it was easy to get the line through as I could look down the tunnel from the rear with all the insides taken out and inspection plates removed. The bend was only difficult because there was not much room to work with down inside under the tank. Either way, it still worked. Good luck with it.

[tod914]

If you bend it first, how could you possibly feed it through?

[crash914]

Don't bend first!!!!!!

The OEM lines go through some little clips along the way...I bent mine, after pulling out the old ones and it was hard to re-install....I still feel that it is binding on something...

There is plenty of room to bend after pushing all the way through...I might not want to bend as I am relocating the fuel pump to the front trunk also...just a thought...

Run a stiff wire through the line prior to pulling out...then you can use this to pull the new line back under all the clips..good luck, herb

[Marlow]

I pre-bent my lines before installing them. It wasn't too difficult to get them in. I didn't see a way to bend them afterwards as there's no room up front to get a tubing bender in there. I suppose you could try to bend them by hand but I was afraid of kinking the lines.

The most trouble I had was with the passenger side line as the tunnel starts to curve in just forward of the firewall. Took a few tries at different angles, twisting and turning but not too bad. I did not know at the time that the old lines were in brackets, I may have done it differently had I known.

[RON S.]

I replace mine w/ 3/8" brake line.
I pre-formed it only a little,then had to form it as I threaded it thru.It was a real P.I.T.A. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) when it reached the front firewall.But,it's done,and I'll never worry about it again.
It's worth the effort.

[anthony]

Anyone ever hear of the plastic tunnel line fail?

[tod914]

I didn't see a way to bend them afterwards as there's no room up front to get a tubing bender in there.

I pulled them as far foward into the gas tank area and used a small tube bender with no problem. Just make sure you clear the lines before you start and tape off the ends so you don't get any crap in them.

[fraggle00]

No fail in the tunnel but mine came apart in the engine bay. It was leaking alittle and when I went to tighten the hose clamp it just started to come apart. First it snapped about 3" off, then about 9" came away.

[Demick]

I just got done installing the steel fuel lines and moving the fuel pump to the front. Damn. What a major pain that was. One of the least fun jobs I've ever done on that car, and I've done some pretty un-fun projects.

Everything I did seemed like 2 steps forward, one step back.

Thanks for the tips guys. They definitely helped. I have a new tip to add. If you are using flare fittings, make sure the flare nut is on the right end before bending any tubes. Twice I forgot to get the nut in the right place and had to scrap the tube after bending. That sucked.

Demick