what did you do to your 914 today Options

[gms]

On the road again... Only on jackstands for a couple months. New rotors and m/c, PMB rebuilt calipers, @gms refinished/powder coated steelies.
Pedal still a little soft, have to bleed it out again, but it's drivable!

Looking great Pete!

[rjames]

Well, now that I have new rotors and rebuilt calipers installed, I WAS going to finish bleeding the brake lines. That was until I discovered the new stainless steel lines I installed (only 2 fortunately) are leaking at both ends no matter how tight I made the fittings. Anyone else have problems with stainless lines?
The old/still usable lines and one new OE steel line snugged up fine and no leaks.

Ditch the stainless lines and go with the stock rubber lines. I wouldn't reuse your old ones though, unless they are at least newish.

[Chaznaster]

Have had a hard time finding a decent clutch stop so made my own. It's a prototype; I need to figure out how to have the rubber bit come more forward and stay put. It pushes back with a hard push on the pedal.

[fixer34]

Well, now that I have new rotors and rebuilt calipers installed, I WAS going to finish bleeding the brake lines. That was until I discovered the new stainless steel lines I installed (only 2 fortunately) are leaking at both ends no matter how tight I made the fittings. Anyone else have problems with stainless lines?
The old/still usable lines and one new OE steel line snugged up fine and no leaks.

Ditch the stainless lines and go with the stock rubber lines. I wouldn't reuse your old ones though, unless they are at least newish.

I had installed stainless flex lines 25+ years ago (the last time I touched the brake lines). Replaced the front flex lines with rubber this time, left the rears installed as they seem to be fine and are a b**th to get to.
The stainless lines I was referring to are new hard lines running from the master cylinder to each side soft line.
Not really bent correctly and stainless tubing doesn't bend easily. Then the issue with the connections leaking. The old steel hard lines weren't that bad, but I had rounded off one of the hex fittings and another one was rusted up.
I was so ticked about the stainless hard lines, I installed the one old line with Vise-grips, and put heat/penetrating oil on the rusted end and freed it up. Put them on, no leaking, bled the brakes and had it out for a drive that night. I'll deal with the vendor, and install another set of regular steel lines once it gets colder and I'm not driving it.

[SKL1]

Started and ran the '71 for a few minutes to check for exhaust leaks after repairing a stripped exhaust stud. Sounded great! NO leaks!!

[eric9144]

Pulled out the /4, put in the rain tray and washed it for the first time in about two years
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[KSCarrera]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-22846-1629820873.1.jpg)

Acknowledging my sponsors...

[Justinp71]

Pulled off my trailing arms. All original bearings and bushings. All in OK shape. Redoing it all as it needs to get done, but surprised the rubber in the rear trailing arms was all full intact. Same was not true on the front I re-did a couple years ago.

[SKL1]

Drove both before it got too hot. '73 ran great. '71 ran great but have some linkage adjustments to do! Would only go into 2nd and 3rd... realized it pretty quickly when it wouldn't go into 4th!!

[seanpaulmc]

Had fun extracting screws from the exhaust / heater ductwork.




Practice for the Eastwood Mig135.

[Chaznaster]

Took it for a spin after adjusting the clutch per Dr Evil’s guidance. That, on top of all new linkage bushings and dialing in the shifter, made for the best driving experience to date. Did not nick reverse a single time … but it still flops between the 2-3 and 4-5 planes when in neutral without returning upright. Springs for the R-1 plane return are working fine.

[Gatornapper]

Took my bride of 49 years on an ice cream run to a Bruster's about 16 miles from us on almost all twisty country roads - one of our fav dates.

When home, I took a commercial digital thermometer accurate within .1 deg, pulled off the oil fill cannister and checked the oil temp. It was 208 deg. F with this on the gauge:

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Which corresponds exactly to the '74 and later 200C sending unit in the upper right hand corner here:

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Good news is on a 95 deg. day running at 70mph on the interstate for an hour, the hottest my engine is getting is 240 deg. F or less.

Want to get it lower, but not as bad as I feared.

GN

[emerygt350]

What oil are you using? When I switched to full synthetic 5w40 (Mobil 1) I noticed a substantial decrease in temp from the 20/50 dino.

[FlacaProductions]

Did two really good drives today after an oil change yesterday. Still bone dry on the bottom so that's great news. Car runs comfortably in the low/middle of the temp range and the dipstick thermometer reads 200 on the nose every time and it was hot here today. Idles a little low when warm but I'll turn the idle screw tomorrow and raise that - should be good to go.

[Gatornapper]

Valvoline VR-1 - cam & pushrods need the ZDDP.....lots of folks here use it.

I'm a synthetic oil nut and Amsoil dealer - but many have said to not run synthetic in a Type IV. I don't doubt it can drop oil temp.

OTH, I use Brad Penn in my old Triumph motorcycles as it has the ZDDP and is partially synthetic.

I may try the Brad Penn in my next oil change. But it's not full synthetic. There are those who argue that partial synthetic has same benefits of full synthetic. I'm not sold on that yet........

I could use Mobil 1 or Amsoil and ADD ZDDP additive - but that is expensive........

GN

What oil are you using? When I switched to full synthetic 5w40 (Mobil 1) I noticed a substantial decrease in temp from the 20/50 dino.

[emerygt350]

I use the European blend that is supposed to have higher levels of zddp but I don't really buy that zddp mysticism (or the no need for synthetics in 914s logic). I have no real evidence but I suspect moving to a lighter weight oil (40) and the synthetic oil increases the volume of oil moving through the engine, moves more heat etc. Sacrifice a little pressure for more oil moving through.

[Gatornapper]

Engine started running poorly couple days ago......some popping in left carb at idle... loss of power...think I found it - loose intake manifold on left. That sure would explain it.

My bad.....should have snugged it up a week or so after running engine in in May.......right one was tight.

When you get my age, you forget things........

GN

[Quinn Moore]

i just wanted to start a thread to see what you guys do day to day on your cars.

i'll start,

about a month ago, i pulled my engine and trans to put in a new clutch. had the flywheel lightened and resurfaced. but what i didnt know is that i had to shim the little ball that the clutch arm rides on, after a resurfacing. so guess what i did today?

yup, pulled the trans and put an extra washer under the ball. you have to goop up both washers to get it to seal because the threaded hole goes all the way thru to the inside of the trans. i also replaced the plastic cup that the ball rides in. the throwout bearing and its little plastic blocks were fine so i buttoned every thing back up. 5 hours total. i think this has been the cheapest repair yet on my car. $2.75 for the little plastic cup.

what did you do to your 914 today?

Took a bath? Getting some air.....

[GeorgeKopf]

Media blasted my fog light housings and front turn signal housings.

Building an insert to hold the euro light for the US housings.

Primer tomorrow.

[FlacaProductions]

Drove it one more run and then a nice wash and tucked it away until I get back...