what did you do to your 914 today Options

[euro911]

Took mine out to a local show. Spent the morning being completely ignored by all the hot rod guys. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I thought it was too hot in PHX to drive your 914 this time of the year? ... WTF do hot rod guys know anyway (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)


Larmo63 and Forrestkhaag came by the shop this am to look at a '6' project motor. I stuck around after they left and got the '67 911 up on jack stands ... and started prepping to remove the drive train for a motor swap.

Apparently I misplaced my 1/4" socket swivel so I ran over to SEARS to pick one up. They are $9. for a single 1/4" swivel, but they had a sale on a 3-pack with 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" swivels for $13. - no-brainer, got the 3-pack (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Also couldn't find my 36mm combo wrench (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ... SEARS didn't have any in stock, so I ordered one on line from Summit Racing. I would have tried one of the FLAPS, but they were all closed for the evening (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

... oh, and all the driving around I did today was in the 'BB' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[DRPHIL914]

1. Oil change - back to 10/40 to see if it runs cooler
2. Pulled wheels, shocks, reset spring height on the rears to get better clearance for the new 7" fuchs, also resulting in a better balance from back to front. Tried the longer 90# springs but ended up staying with the 100# weltmeisters.
3. Drove to FroYo with my youngest and met the wife and other daughter for a treat! Best night in 2 months. Only 40% humidity ttoday and 85!, has been 95+ for over a month.
4. Lost the dash lights, and headlights won't go down, not sure why yet.

[euro911]

Looking good, Phil (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

I replaced my cooling lines with new green stripe hose. I also moved my water pump so it will pull from the radiator and push to the engine. This seemed to reduce cavitation during testing. Should be driving again tomorrow.

[mgp4591]

I replaced my cooling lines with new green stripe hose. I also moved my water pump so it will pull from the radiator and push to the engine. This seemed to reduce cavitation during testing. Should be driving again tomorrow.

Mike, that makes sense to me also. It's gotta beat the hell out of the little Subie water pump flailing away trying to pull that water column over what, like 6 ft or so of tubing? Anything to keep the coolant stream moving and put less strain on other pieces never designed to do the work has to help. What type of testing were you doing for these results? And when do we see MORE PICTURES??!! Sorry... I'm bored of hospitals and rehab with almost a month left to go... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) haven't even SEEN my car since June 5th. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[Cuda911]

Drove it about 100 miles today on some great back roads. Then, brakes started feeling funky and the red dash brake light started flashing. Is that just brakes worn out, or is it the master cylinder?

Also, the rear trunk solenoid stopped working, so I can't get the rear trunk open.

[euro911]

Drove it about 100 miles today on some great back roads. Then, brakes started feeling funky and the red dash brake light started flashing. Is that just brakes worn out, or is it the master cylinder?

Also, the rear trunk solenoid stopped working, so I can't get the rear trunk open.

Brakes:
Check fluid level in the reservoir. If it's low, check for leaks going to the feed side and the hard lines going out of the the M/C - also check all the calipers and the proportioning valve at the rear firewall.

If no leaks are evident, check the condition of your pads.

Rear trunk:
Check for a blown or missing fuse

[Porschef]

Returned this week's bottles and cans

[mbseto]

[euro911]

Returned this week's bottles and cans

Glad you didn't post "drove it to the recycling yard today" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[hot_shoe914]

I have the Bumble Bee up on the lift getting the motor ready to come out so I can stick another one in it. The one going in is sitting on the floor next to the lift, ready to go in.

[Mike Bellis]

I replaced my cooling lines with new green stripe hose. I also moved my water pump so it will pull from the radiator and push to the engine. This seemed to reduce cavitation during testing. Should be driving again tomorrow.

Mike, that makes sense to me also. It's gotta beat the hell out of the little Subie water pump flailing away trying to pull that water column over what, like 6 ft or so of tubing? Anything to keep the coolant stream moving and put less strain on other pieces never designed to do the work has to help. What type of testing were you doing for these results? And when do we see MORE PICTURES??!! Sorry... I'm bored of hospitals and rehab with almost a month left to go... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) haven't even SEEN my car since June 5th. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

My testing has been mostly by ear. The pump motor is almost silent so when running I can hear air cavitation in the line. With the pump on the outlet of the radiator, I hear no cavitation. The engine is running slightly cooler on the same radiator as well. I took it on a 20 mile journey today and the temps never got above 190°. An added advantage is this setup for whatever reason is easier to burp, pushing air to the high spot in-line filler.

[matthepcat]

Mike,

I wonder if this electric pump would continue to cool the Audi motor if the factory water pump impellers failed.

I replaced my cooling lines with new green stripe hose. I also moved my water pump so it will pull from the radiator and push to the engine. This seemed to reduce cavitation during testing. Should be driving again tomorrow.

Mike, that makes sense to me also. It's gotta beat the hell out of the little Subie water pump flailing away trying to pull that water column over what, like 6 ft or so of tubing? Anything to keep the coolant stream moving and put less strain on other pieces never designed to do the work has to help. What type of testing were you doing for these results? And when do we see MORE PICTURES??!! Sorry... I'm bored of hospitals and rehab with almost a month left to go... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) haven't even SEEN my car since June 5th. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

My testing has been mostly by ear. The pump motor is almost silent so when running I can hear air cavitation in the line. With the pump on the outlet of the radiator, I hear no cavitation. The engine is running slightly cooler on the same radiator as well. I took it on a 20 mile journey today and the temps never got above 190°. An added advantage is this setup for whatever reason is easier to burp, pushing air to the high spot in-line filler.

[Larmo63]

I think that red car is one of Magnus Walker's latest creations...

[Cuda911]

Drove it about 100 miles today on some great back roads. Then, brakes started feeling funky and the red dash brake light started flashing. Is that just brakes worn out, or is it the master cylinder?

Also, the rear trunk solenoid stopped working, so I can't get the rear trunk open.

Brakes:
Check fluid level in the reservoir. If it's low, check for leaks going to the feed side and the hard lines going out of the the M/C - also check all the calipers and the proportioning valve at the rear firewall.

If no leaks are evident, check the condition of your pads.

Rear trunk:
Check for a blown or missing fuse

Brake fluid was low. Topped it up, no improvements. No sign of leaks. Pads worn down, and rotors are scored, so will get this taken care of before I drive it anymore.

No blown fuses. The trunk solenoid worked fine in the morning. Put the top in. Then when I got home, it would no longer work, so can't get the trunk open. Suggestions?

[Mike Bellis]

Mike,

I wonder if this electric pump would continue to cool the Audi motor if the factory water pump impellers failed.

I'm not running the factory pump. Well it's there but no belt to spin it. The electric pump works great!

[Hank914]

Drove it about 100 miles today on some great back roads. Then, brakes started feeling funky and the red dash brake light started flashing. Is that just brakes worn out, or is it the master cylinder?

Also, the rear trunk solenoid stopped working, so I can't get the rear trunk open.

Brakes:
Check fluid level in the reservoir. If it's low, check for leaks going to the feed side and the hard lines going out of the the M/C - also check all the calipers and the proportioning valve at the rear firewall.

If no leaks are evident, check the condition of your pads.

Rear trunk:
Check for a blown or missing fuse

Brake fluid was low. Topped it up, no improvements. No sign of leaks. Pads worn down, and rotors are scored, so will get this taken care of before I drive it anymore.

No blown fuses. The trunk solenoid worked fine in the morning. Put the top in. Then when I got home, it would no longer work, so can't get the trunk open. Suggestions?

Do you hear any clicking when you push the release button?

My trunk would not open when I pushed the button, but if somebody pulled on the trunk when I was pushing the button (located under the dash) it would open. I think the spring was no longer strong enough to fully pop it open. Once I got it open, I did not want to be held hostage, so I took off the spring and latch, and now it is permanently unlockable. I might fix it when I get a new rear trunk lid that does not have a spoiler, but then I might also remove the Porsche reflector and go with the completely stock trunk lock.

[Cuda911]

Drove it about 100 miles today on some great back roads. Then, brakes started feeling funky and the red dash brake light started flashing. Is that just brakes worn out, or is it the master cylinder?

Also, the rear trunk solenoid stopped working, so I can't get the rear trunk open.

Brakes:
Check fluid level in the reservoir. If it's low, check for leaks going to the feed side and the hard lines going out of the the M/C - also check all the calipers and the proportioning valve at the rear firewall.

If no leaks are evident, check the condition of your pads.

Rear trunk:
Check for a blown or missing fuse

Brake fluid was low. Topped it up, no improvements. No sign of leaks. Pads worn down, and rotors are scored, so will get this taken care of before I drive it anymore.

No blown fuses. The trunk solenoid worked fine in the morning. Put the top in. Then when I got home, it would no longer work, so can't get the trunk open. Suggestions?

Do you hear any clicking when you push the release button?

My trunk would not open when I pushed the button, but if somebody pulled on the trunk when I was pushing the button (located under the dash) it would open. I think the spring was no longer strong enough to fully pop it open. Once I got it open, I did not want to be held hostage, so I took off the spring and latch, and now it is permanently unlockable. I might fix it when I get a new rear trunk lid that does not have a spoiler, but then I might also remove the Porsche reflector and go with the completely stock trunk lock.

Nope, no clicking at all. When it works, it's easy to hear it actuate. Totally dead.

[euro911]

Maybe you jostled the wiring when you were placing the top in the trunk then? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

There's a thread about accessing the latch mechanism somewhere in the Garage - try searching to see if you can find it. Otherwise, some will eventually chime in.

A friend had his solenoid stop working and had the Porsche 911 reflector between the tail lights. I found the thread and followed the instructions: drilled a small (1/8") hole through the reflector (and rear panel) and used a straight piece of coat-hanger wire to push on the latch release.

[SirAndy]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/morning1.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yawn.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif)