what did you do to your 914 today Options

[euro911]

... My current spare is a 225 on a 7" cookie cutter and it's just a bit too high for the rear trunk.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Isn't that why you have that rack on the rear deck-lid - for your Paris to Dakar runs?

[SirAndy]

... My current spare is a 225 on a 7" cookie cutter and it's just a bit too high for the rear trunk.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Isn't that why you have that rack on the rear deck-lid - for your Paris to Dakar runs?

No, the rack is for my luggage ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-179-1430801778_thumb.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-179-1430801936_thumb.jpg)

[euro911]

Yeah, I remember ...

I'm going to assume the polka-dot bag is Amoy's (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[76-914]

It's a requirement when traveling with the fairer sex.

[Millerwelds]

Yeah, I remember ...

I'm going to assume the polka-dot bag is Amoy's (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

No, It is Andy's. it matches the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[altitude411]

It's on the drivers side of the car. Just sayin.

*That is a bad ass car if that helps me any.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[914_teener]

Purchased a 215/60-15 tire from Discount ($65 including shipping via eBay), bought a used 15x7 cookie cutter alloy ($85 + $29.84 shipping) from eBay), had my local Discount mount and balance the tire ($18). Bought a a M10 coupling nut ($2.20), M10 threaded rod ($1.90), and two M10 jam nuts ($0.90), to extend my spare tire hold-down screw to accommodate the thicker rim center of the 15x7 wheel. I now have a correctly-sized, usable spare tire for the first time in the 33 years I've owned my car. $203.25 total including tax.

That reminds me, i already bought a 6" cookie cutter wheel to do the same albeit narrower. Gotta get me a tire for that.

My current spare is a 225 on a 7" cookie cutter and it's just a bit too high for the rear trunk.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I found a almost perf steelie and it fits perfect.

The lid sits down flat now!

Drove it for the first time in about three months since I got back from Europe.

Ran great but it is hot here ........again.

[socal1200r]

Car still has a stumbling problem, even after replacing the fuel pump. It's not as bad as it was, but still has a terrible flat spot. I took the car to this section of road that I could accelerate thru to 4th, hold it steady, speed up, slow down, etc. I tinkered around with the settings on the knob on the ECU, and kept track of how many clicks I adjusted, then turned that long adjusting rod with the red handle by the TB to set the idle around 1K, plus or minus.

When left unchanged, the car would buck terribly at the smallest throttle opening, then smooth out once it started to accelerate. I adjusted this knob from 1 to 5 clicks clockwise, with varying results. The "best" result I got was with the knob 3 clicks out, it only seemed to stumble a little bit around 2400-2800 rpms.

To experiment, I adjusted the knob the other way. Set it back to "zero", then went two clicks counter-clockwise. Car popped and backfired like crazy when slowing down, so I went back to the 3 clicks clockwise setting, and left it there. It's far from being a smooth ride, and I'm getting very frustrated with trying to figure it out.

I realize the FI system on this car is over 40 years old, which I'm thinking is a big part of the problem. I'm probably going to take it to the shop that replaced the fuel pump, and see if they can get the car sorted out. I installed new plugs / wires / dist cap / rotor / coil, and after fiddling around with that ECU knob and red-handled rod it's still not running the way I want.

If the shop determines it's the FI system, and it needs parts, I'm going to cut my losses and junk the FI system and replace it with something like the dual 1-barrel Webers and a new hi vol/low pressure fuel pump. I probably should've done that instead of having them replace the FI fuel pump, but it is what it is. I won't go down that rabbit hole again...

[pbanders]

Car still has a stumbling problem, even after replacing the fuel pump. It's not as bad as it was, but still has a terrible flat spot. I took the car to this section of road that I could accelerate thru to 4th, hold it steady, speed up, slow down, etc. I tinkered around with the settings on the knob on the ECU, and kept track of how many clicks I adjusted, then turned that long adjusting rod with the red handle by the TB to set the idle around 1K, plus or minus.

When left unchanged, the car would buck terribly at the smallest throttle opening, then smooth out once it started to accelerate. I adjusted this knob from 1 to 5 clicks clockwise, with varying results. The "best" result I got was with the knob 3 clicks out, it only seemed to stumble a little bit around 2400-2800 rpms.

To experiment, I adjusted the knob the other way. Set it back to "zero", then went two clicks counter-clockwise. Car popped and backfired like crazy when slowing down, so I went back to the 3 clicks clockwise setting, and left it there. It's far from being a smooth ride, and I'm getting very frustrated with trying to figure it out.

I realize the FI system on this car is over 40 years old, which I'm thinking is a big part of the problem. I'm probably going to take it to the shop that replaced the fuel pump, and see if they can get the car sorted out. I installed new plugs / wires / dist cap / rotor / coil, and after fiddling around with that ECU knob and red-handled rod it's still not running the way I want.

If the shop determines it's the FI system, and it needs parts, I'm going to cut my losses and junk the FI system and replace it with something like the dual 1-barrel Webers and a new hi vol/low pressure fuel pump. I probably should've done that instead of having them replace the FI fuel pump, but it is what it is. I won't go down that rabbit hole again...

Before you junk the FI, if you haven't taken a look at my D-Jet page (link in my sig), you might find it helpful. After you've made sure your mechanical (compression/vacuum), charging (battery/alternator), ignition, and fuel filter/supply/pressure are in good shape and operating properly, use my page to go through your FI system. Check that you have all the components, that they're correct for your car and engine, that they're connected correctly (electrically and vacuum), and that they pass basic tests I describe. Note that the ECU knob only affects mixture when the throttle position sensor is in the fully closed (idle or overrun) position. It doesn't affect your running (part or full load) mixture at all. Good luck, and remember that cars with good FI are generally worth more on the open market.

[pbanders]

One more thing I did today, I updated my 16 year old head unit to a new Kenwood KMM-BT515HD digital media receiver. It's got built-in HD Radio (awesome sound), Bluetooth, Aux, Pandora, iHeartRadio, Android and iPhone control, USB, and gobs of other features. Installed super easy and was only $107 from Amazon, including a handy remote.



Good spot for the BT microphone



And there's only one song to play in your 914.... "914" by Liquid Tension Experiment!

[cali914]

Drove to Canepa for the last cars and coffee of the year. Incredible show and shop

[cali914]

The yellow 914 is not mine but very sexy.

[914-300Hemi]

Installed new front sway bar bushings, replace front bearings and brakes. Also bled the brakes using the new power bleeder.
Now working on installing the tuna can and oil change.

[iankarr]

Finally put all of the car's records and receipts in a binder!

[altitude411]

That looks expensive $$$. Is it written in code (wife)

[iankarr]

That looks expensive $$$. Is it written in code (wife)

Ha!

Most of the records are from the PO. The wife actually helped me organize everything by date. I married well.

[76-914]

God, I love modern day electronics. Went to the grocery store this AM and noticed a flat spot during acceleration and twice it cut out. Connected the OBD2 reader and found the error code, P0113 (intake air temp sensor). The voltage wasn't there nor did it have continuity. Peeled back the wiring loom and found a wire had pulled out of the butt splice connector which was crimped, and I use this term loosely, with the red handle tool. It is excellent for cutting and stripping wire but not for crimping. At the time I did not have this tool. Which brings me to this:

This is crimping tool:



This is not:

[VegasRacer]

I didn't actually do anything to my 914 today, but I did get a new license plate to add to my collection. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[tygaboy]

Got my 2017 Build off Challenge project on the rotisserie!

[socal1200r]

Before you junk the FI, if you haven't taken a look at my D-Jet page (link in my sig), you might find it helpful. After you've made sure your mechanical (compression/vacuum), charging (battery/alternator), ignition, and fuel filter/supply/pressure are in good shape and operating properly, use my page to go through your FI system. Check that you have all the components, that they're correct for your car and engine, that they're connected correctly (electrically and vacuum), and that they pass basic tests I describe. Note that the ECU knob only affects mixture when the throttle position sensor is in the fully closed (idle or overrun) position. It doesn't affect your running (part or full load) mixture at all. Good luck, and remember that cars with good FI are generally worth more on the open market.

This is EXACTLY why I want to junk the FI system, and convert to carbs! This is WAY too complicated compared to a carb system. I'm really starting to have buyer's remorse with this car...should've bought the 1991 Alfa 164S instead...at least that car would be expected to have issues...