what did you do to your 914 today Options

[ClayPerrine]

Busy weekend, only had a little bit of time after dinner tonight to play in the garage, so I got one stud replaced. I used left hand drill bits after milling the stud flat hoping it would loosen the stud, no luck.

This works 99% of the time for me.

Take an oxygen acetylene torch and weld an 8mm nut onto the remains of the stud. The heat from the welding will break the stud free from the head, allowing you to unscrew it when it cools down.

[914fahrer]

I remove all the old seam sealer to avoid new rust. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

What was used to remove the seam sealer? I was trying a heat gun and putty knife. Got impatient and figured there was a better way.

I use a heat gun and a long self made chisel (10mm) ,a little Wire Wheel Brush,
and at last sand blasting. It takes a lot of time to remove this stuff.

[euro911]

Received some nice 914 goodies before I left town last week:

A set of custom tailored sheep skin seat covers form Jeff (Pursang) ... to keep me butt warm in the winter months (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) ... Thanks again, Jeff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Got a new 75A alternator, trunk torsion bar tool and a set of poly front arm bushings from Frank (falconfp2001)


... and just now, saved $256. on a period correct 420mm VDM steering wheel for my 911 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Redraptor]

Pulled the gas tank out actually looks O.K. Good thing I did though the lines were rotted through. I may not even bother with resealing the tank it looks good. What do you guys think? That is all loose dirt that fell in during removal

[warpig]

No pics but, after many false starts a few things off the to do list, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Loose front BUB and valence - check
Install 914 rubber tow bar - check
Pull gas tank in prep for reseal and paint - check
(almost) Drop 3.0 and 915 trans out of donor 911 - check (almost) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[BeatNavy]

Pulled the gas tank out actually looks O.K. Good thing I did though the lines were rotted through. I may not even bother with resealing the tank it looks good. What do you guys think? That is all loose dirt that fell in during removal

Replace that sock filter!

You should also neutralize that minor rust while you can.

Otherwise, looks pretty good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[euro911]

Pulled the gas tank out actually looks O.K. Good thing I did though the lines were rotted through. I may not even bother with resealing the tank it looks good. What do you guys think? That is all loose dirt that fell in during removal

If you still have plastic fuel lines running through the tunnel, replace them with stainless steel ones.

[mb911]

Installed my version of the inner long reinforcement today.. Went well.. Pretty happy with how it stops flexing..

[Mueller]

This works 99% of the time for me.

Take an oxygen acetylene torch and weld an 8mm nut onto the remains of the stud. The heat from the welding will break the stud free from the head, allowing you to unscrew it when it cools down.

Tried this on the other head last night, 1 out 2 so far. Nut rounded off on the second broken stud. Will try to weld another one and see what happens.

[ClayPerrine]

This works 99% of the time for me.

Take an oxygen acetylene torch and weld an 8mm nut onto the remains of the stud. The heat from the welding will break the stud free from the head, allowing you to unscrew it when it cools down.

Tried this on the other head last night, 1 out 2 so far. Nut rounded off on the second broken stud. Will try to weld another one and see what happens.

Before you try unscrewing it, tighten it just a fraction. It seems to help with breaking it free. If it fails, I have a jig I made to properly drill out the stud without hurting the head.

[Coondog]

Replaced H-4 bulbs with LEDs.........Me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ....Alternator (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Racer]

Late to post, but I did get my rear sway bar attached. The droplink bushings failed a while back. Even though I got the bushings in, I was struggling to get the bar reattached. Course, if I had just removed the rear wheel earlier, it would have saved me so much time and effort.. Doh!

[pbanders]

Started working on a project I back-burnered for the last 15+ years, which is to datalog three different vacuum levels on my 2.0L D-Jetronic engine while running on the street, under real-life conditions. I plan on monitoring the manifold vacuum, vacuum advance, and vacuum retard. Each will be monitored under idle, part-load, accelerating, overrun, and full-load. I'm going to use a Fluke PV350 vacuum/pressure module, and plug it directly into my DSO Nano V3 oscilloscope. The timebase on the scope can be as slow as 10 sec/div, so I can get 100 sec of recording per screen. I can then do a screen capture and look at the data later.

Got all the hoses I needed today, as well as t-fittings. Tested out the PV350 with the DSO Nano V3 on the bench, works fine. Just need to put it into the car and run the lead from the PV350 over the targa bar into the passenger compartment. Hope to get to this sometime before Sunday.

[euro911]

Started working on a project I back-burnered for the last 15+ years, which is to datalog three different vacuum levels on my 2.0L D-Jetronic engine while running on the street, under real-life conditions. I plan on monitoring the manifold vacuum, vacuum advance, and vacuum retard. Each will be monitored under idle, part-load, accelerating, overrun, and full-load. I'm going to use a Fluke PV350 vacuum/pressure module, and plug it directly into my DSO Nano V3 oscilloscope. The timebase on the scope can be as slow as 10 sec/div, so I can get 100 sec of recording per screen. I can then do a screen capture and look at the data later.

Got all the hoses I needed today, as well as t-fittings. Tested out the PV350 with the DSO Nano V3 on the bench, works fine. Just need to put it into the car and run the lead from the PV350 over the targa bar into the passenger compartment. Hope to get to this sometime before Sunday.

What will you garner from the data, Brad?

[914_teener]

Started working on a project I back-burnered for the last 15+ years, which is to datalog three different vacuum levels on my 2.0L D-Jetronic engine while running on the street, under real-life conditions. I plan on monitoring the manifold vacuum, vacuum advance, and vacuum retard. Each will be monitored under idle, part-load, accelerating, overrun, and full-load. I'm going to use a Fluke PV350 vacuum/pressure module, and plug it directly into my DSO Nano V3 oscilloscope. The timebase on the scope can be as slow as 10 sec/div, so I can get 100 sec of recording per screen. I can then do a screen capture and look at the data later.

Got all the hoses I needed today, as well as t-fittings. Tested out the PV350 with the DSO Nano V3 on the bench, works fine. Just need to put it into the car and run the lead from the PV350 over the targa bar into the passenger compartment. Hope to get to this sometime before Sunday.

What will you garner from the data, Brad?

Distributors by their part number I'd quess....

Great to see you working on your car Brad.

[Mueller]

Before you try unscrewing it, tighten it just a fraction. It seems to help with breaking it free. If it fails, I have a jig I made to properly drill out the stud without hurting the head.

I didn't try tightening it, forgot out that trick.

The stud in the picture was drilled out on my CNC mill, so unless I hit the wrong button no worries of damaging the head, thanks for the offer.

[Mueller]

Started working on a project I back-burnered for the last 15+ years, which is to datalog three different vacuum levels on my 2.0L D-Jetronic engine while running on the street, under real-life conditions. I plan on monitoring the manifold vacuum, vacuum advance, and vacuum retard. Each will be monitored under idle, part-load, accelerating, overrun, and full-load. I'm going to use a Fluke PV350 vacuum/pressure module, and plug it directly into my DSO Nano V3 oscilloscope. The timebase on the scope can be as slow as 10 sec/div, so I can get 100 sec of recording per screen. I can then do a screen capture and look at the data later.

Got all the hoses I needed today, as well as t-fittings. Tested out the PV350 with the DSO Nano V3 on the bench, works fine. Just need to put it into the car and run the lead from the PV350 over the targa bar into the passenger compartment. Hope to get to this sometime before Sunday.

What will you garner from the data, Brad?

Elevated to an even higher geekdom status ( in a good way!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

That is a neat 'scope, might have to add that to my Christmas list of things to buy for myself. I half expected you to be using Mathlab or the like....your solution is way cheaper!

[pbanders]

What will you garner from the data, Brad?

Several things I'm looking for. I want to verify that my vacuum limiter (aka "decel valve") is working and that the vacuum is limited to the setpoint I adjusted it to. I also want to see what the typical part-load vacuum level is, so that when I'm adjusting an MPS and I want to set the part-load mixture, I am doing so at an appropriate vacuum level. I also want to monitor the operation of the vacuum advance and retard on the distributor, I'm thinking of doing some mods to the retard to limit its range. And like any time you take data, who knows what else you'll see that's interesting.

[euro911]

What will you garner from the data, Brad?

Several things I'm looking for. I want to verify that my vacuum limiter (aka "decel valve") is working and that the vacuum is limited to the setpoint I adjusted it to. I also want to see what the typical part-load vacuum level is, so that when I'm adjusting an MPS and I want to set the part-load mixture, I am doing so at an appropriate vacuum level. I also want to monitor the operation of the vacuum advance and retard on the distributor, I'm thinking of doing some mods to the retard to limit its range. And like any time you take data, who knows what else you'll see that's interesting.

Cool. Hope to see the results ... it may help me with fine-tuning the 1911cc [FI] motor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[SKL1]

Charged the battery on the silver '71- last cars and coffee this Saturday for the IA season. Luckily have all winter for cars and coffee in AZ for the '73!