OT: Working on my shop car, The wagon Porsche never built. . . Options

[aircooledtechguy]

While other fab is going on behind the scenes, parts acquisition continues. . .

Mario Velotta @ www.thedubshop.net made me a deal on these 45mm ITBs, 35# PICO injectors and one if his CLT sensors over the weekend that I couldn't refuse. These additions along with the new trigger wheel w/ hall sensor and COP ignition, should help motivate the new 2.3L power plant nicely. The sh*t just got serious!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1395101336.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1395101336.2.jpg)
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1395101336.4.jpg)

Now I either need to modify a pair of manifolds I already have or fab a custom set from scratch. I'm thinking the later. . . 8)

[pjhaun]

While other fab is going on behind the scenes, parts acquisition continues. . .

Mario Velotta @ www.thedubshop.net made me a deal on these 45mm ITBs, 35# PICO injectors and one if his CLT sensors over the weekend that I couldn't refuse. These additions along with the new trigger wheel w/ hall sensor and COP ignition, should help motivate the new 2.3L power plant nicely. The sh*t just got serious!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1395101336.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1395101336.2.jpg)
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1395101336.4.jpg)

Now I either need to modify a pair of manifolds I already have or fab a custom set from scratch. I'm thinking the later. . . 8)

So, Nate; How much did they cost you?

[aircooledtechguy]

Sometimes my wife sees this stuff. . .

Lets just say that I saved about $100. It's not the cost, it's the value. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[aircooledtechguy]

A few weeks ago, I stopped by Speed Mart (www.speedmart.com) which is a local sprint car shop, to look at their offerings for helmets for the up coming race season. Until now, I had never really needed to own a helmet since most of the time I had friends with me at the auto-X's that I went to that let me share theirs between runs. Having never bought one before, and I'm planning to see much higher speeds than an auto-X event, I figured I would seek professional help to steer me in the correct direction. These guys are great to work with and I walked out today with a new Snell 2010 approved full-face Pyrotect helmet, an extra smoke face shield and a pair of gloves. Everything fits perfect and they didn't try and up-sell me stuff I didn't need. What more could a guy ask, right??

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1395879140.1.jpg)

I'd like to also get a pair of driving shoes when I have a few extra $$$. I'll definitely be back. It sure is nice that these guys are local to me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[NORD]

OMG!!!

Now you'll be dangerous. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[aircooledtechguy]

I’ve had a distrust of the factory trunk latches since 1983 when the hood of my first car flew-up on the freeway. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Since then, I’ve never really trusted them. So knowing that the Squarsche will be seeing track events and some very high speeds, I wanted to be sure that this was NEVER an issue and give myself some peace of mind. So I searched for a truly positive trunk latching system. Hood pins work, but they are rather ugly to me and the pin lanyards bung-up the paint over time. They are also not lockable unless you use a small padlock which just looks stupid if you ask me. In looking for something better, I ran across AeroCatch hood pins which are a modern aircraft style hood pin system. They had a lockable version too so I jumped on these since the trunk is where the fuel tank is and where I can store stuff out of sight. Here’s what the assembly looks like.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396368427.1.jpg)

I stayed late last night to get these mounted. I first mounted the pins to the hood being careful to leave at least 1” of up or down movement so that final adjustments could be made.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396368428.2.jpg)

I then marked out the pin holes and used a burr to remove metal so that the pins fit through. After those were in and even, I took some careful measurements and marked out the latch locations on the body.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396368428.3.jpg)

I used a hole saw to cut the outer contours of the latch assembly and tin snips and a burr to finish it off.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396368428.4.jpg)

I drilled the 6 holes for the mount bolts and test fit the latch. I ended-up making about a 1/8” adjustment on the pin to get it all perfect and then cut the rubber bumper to the correct size. Perfect fit and this hood is NOT coming up unless I want it to. The factory hood latch and cable will not be going back in the car. This set-up is all that’s needed now.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396368428.5.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396368428.6.jpg)

[KELTY360]

I figured I would seek professional help to steer me in the correct direction.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

...and how's that working out for you?

[aircooledtechguy]

I figured I would seek professional help to steer me in the correct direction.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

...and how's that working out for you?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) Money down the tubes. . . obviously! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[KELTY360]

I figured I would seek professional help to steer me in the correct direction.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

...and how's that working out for you?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) Money down the tubes. . . obviously! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

When will you learn?.....there is no cure. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

[aircooledtechguy]

So I'm basically finished with most of the widening process and I thought I would come clean with it and confess my sins. . .

I began going a different route entirely and I plan to make a set like originally planned, but I have planned for later this year. So in the K.I.S.S. vein, I merely kept is simple stupid.

For the front, that was easy. I removed my wheel spacers and the longer studs and threw on the shorter studs and mounted the wheels directly to the hubs. Then with a few vigorous pulls, I was able to massage the lips out about 1/2" from stock and there are currently no rubbing issues. Now, I will need to re-set the rear door gap, but that should be pretty easy.

The rears were another story. I had to overcome this. . .

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763757.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763757.2.jpg)

I decided that I wanted to be more subtle with this set, so I bumped out the fender arches 3". This also forced me to have to extend the engine cooling air duct lip as well. The front bottom edge had to come out 3" or so to ensure and angled to the factory rocker width. The rear bottom edge had to be extended so that the rear edge of the wheel arch would cover the tire.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763757.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763757.4.jpg)
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Once this was done, the rear door gap was HUGE. It went from a sloppy 7/16" at the top to a portly 1.25" at the bottom.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763757.7.jpg)

To correct this was pretty simple. Once the fender was installed, I marked a line 3/8" from the fwd edge with a Sharpie and used a cut-off wheel to cut the front edge off the fender.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763757.8.jpg)

Then I bent some metal in the shape of the top section so that t fit tightly and welded it in. Then I made a strip for the bottom section and welded it in.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763758.9.jpg)

After that I cut the sections down enough that I was almost able to shut the door and used a Sharpie to mark a cut line. Then I placed the front strip on the filler, set the gap to 3/16" and tacked it in place.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763758.10.jpg)
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The rear seam had issues as well. The gap was too small at the top, normal in the middle and about 3/4" at the bottom.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763758.13.jpg)

The rear was easy. I cut a section out of a donor fender that was about 1/2" at the top and about 1" at the bottom. Then I marked a cut line on the fender and cut just the edge off. Then I mounted the donor strip to the car and pushed the fender over the donor. Once it was in place, I tacked it in place.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763758.14.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763758.15.jpg)
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763758.17.jpg)

Here's the results. . .

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763758.18.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763758.19.jpg)
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1396763758.21.jpg)

Now that I have the passenger side done and can use it as a pattern, the drivers side will be much quicker. Unfortunately, the drivers side has a bit of rust repair as well.

This rear fender is not totally done though as I have some rear ducting to fabricate but the fender is basically a done.

[r_towle]

Nice and subtle....very cool

[jaxdream]

You seem to have limitless ingenuity !!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) Please keep going , very interesting thread as in the past I let 2 squares slip away from me and have always liked them .

Jack

[PanelBilly]

Very creative work. Have you ever seen a similar car or is this all stuff that you're inventing.

[Tom]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Just wow!!
Tom

[aircooledtechguy]

Thanks for the kind words guys. Some things I've done to my car I've seen before like the rear fender stretching. However not a 3" stretch. The car I saw was about 1-1.5" and he didn't have to re-gap the door and rear edge. Other things like the 5-speed and front suspension and many of the other Porsche mods are of my own twisted mind. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

It's just hotrodding of a different kind.

[aircooledtechguy]

I took two weekends off for family stuff which included last weekend where my eldest daughter and her husband had my 2nd grandson!! It's been crazy around here.

So this weekend, I'm back at it. I had to close-up the door gap on the Front fenders after the stretching/pulling exercises of late.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1398699939.1.jpg)

There are many ways to skin a cat and when it comes to body type work like this, I know very few of them since this is really my first foray into body work. A hotrodder told me about the following method and it sounded intriguing, so I gave it a try.

I measured the thickness of the metal on the edge (the folded edge) used pieces of 3/32" TIG wire welded in to build-up the missing metal. It worked great. I used a couple magnets to keep it even with the base metal and bent it into shape and I tacked it in place. Then went back and finish welded it.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1398699940.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1398699940.3.jpg)

After that, I used a grinder to carefully grind the welds smooth. I did this several times building it up 3/32" at a time. What was nice about this is that you always end-up with a nice finished edge and if you need to add more, you get good penetration between the pieces.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1398699940.4.jpg)

On the back, I welded the rods together. I'll be giving them a good coating of POR-15 to seal between all the cracks in the back.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1398699940.5.jpg)
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Once I had enough built-up, I marked a new gap in the edge and used the grinder to smooth out the finished edge.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1398699940.7.jpg)

Then I turned my attention to the fuel filler door. Since my car is a '67, it never had a door there. This fender is a '69 with a '68 door and spring (to spring the door to the closed position). I chose his set-up specifically so that I could use it as the location for my battery ground cut-off switch. To be Race legal, you gotta have a battery cut-off switch on the outside of the car, so the fuel door seemed like the logical place for it.

I began be baking a backing plate for the switch that would fit into. Then I trimmed it to fit behind the stock hole. Then I welded it in place. Perfect!!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1398699940.8.jpg)
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Now, I'll have to transfer a finger dimple to the rear edge of the opening like a '68 fender has, and I'll be good to go!! My buddy who is going to be doing the body work said he'd handle that for me, so my work here is done.

[TravisNeff]

the widening of the rear is bad ass!

[rick 918-S]

Nice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[aircooledtechguy]

I temporarily turned my attention to the bumpers this weekend. I’ve got a pair of fiberglass bumpers from Glass-Action in AZ (http://vwinnovations.com) and I’m to the point of needing them to be mounted in order to do trimming and such for the fenders. I also needed to graft on the air dam (flex dam) I purchased a while back too from Mark (http://914rubber.com).

I began by cutting some 2” muffler tubing in half on about 10” lengths. Then I made some flat brackets with captive nuts with which to mount the brackets to. This way I could fiberglass the metal mount brackets to the fiberglass bumpers w/o requiring any thru-bolts to show.

I tossed the stock bumpers and brackets to the side and chose a thin, light set of early beetle bumper brackets. The front brackets were used on the rear of the Square and only required elongating the mounting holes slightly to fit like a glove.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399318225.1.jpg)

The rear beetle brackets were used in the front of the Square and required custom holes to be cut in the proper place and the excess cut off the back.

I prepped the bumper bottom and the air dam top with a 3” disc to remove the gel coat. I also removed the mount tabs off the air dam. Then I cut a slice in the center of the air dam to allow it to be splayed out a bit more on each end to fit the fiberglass bumper better. I temporarily put them together with some spring clamps to ensure they would work correctly together.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399318225.2.jpg)

I test hung the bumper/air dam combo onto the brackets and it fit well. With my car at the current height, the bottom of the air dam is currently 5” off the floor.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399318225.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399318225.4.jpg)

This air dam also has a rubber skirt that hangs down an additional 3”. So as it is, the bottom of the air dam will reside about 2” above the floor. Since I have infinitely adjustable suspension via the 911 front and adjustable spring plates rear, I will be able to get it to about 1” for racing purposes pretty easily. Woohoo!!

Now I’m off to consult with my friend, Jim who does fiberglass/carbon fiber for a living, to see how he recommends permanently bonding the brackets and the air dam to the fiberglass bumpers. . . More to come. . .

[tdgray]

Nice work!