OT: Working on my shop car, The wagon Porsche never built. . . Options

[aircooledtechguy]

As I log more and more miles onto my shop car, I have found that I miss the larger 15 gallon tank on my 914. I drive 40 miles round trip a day minimum and find that because of that, I need to fill up before the weekend if I fill it on Monday. Also, the Porsche 911 fuel gauge works on a slightly different oHms range so when full, it only read about 7/8 full. Currently I'm getting around 27mpg in mixed driving. So I decided to do something about the lack of range and the incompatible sender.

I have had a spare tank for years, so I carefully cut it with a cutting wheel (after ensuring there were no old fuel fumes present) and cut off the original filler neck. This is the tank "on the half shell"

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1340225734.1.jpg)

I added 2 "L" shaped pieces that were 4.5" tall into place and welded them into place.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1340225735.2.jpg)

After everything was fully welded, I placed the top back on and welded that into place. Then I brazed a custom filler that will fit below the hood like stock. I also brazed in a fuel return nipple to the bottom as well so the plumbing can finally be correct for the MS2.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1340225736.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1340225736.4.jpg)

Now I need to coat it with POR-15 tank resin to ensure the rusted areas are stopped AND to ensure that if there are any small pin-holes in the welds, they will be permanently sealed. Then a black paint job and undercoating to make the outside look the part.

I should also mention that another reason for this was to better balance the car and up the weight a bit over the front wheels for better cornering (she pushes a bit in the corners like my 914 does when the tank gets below 1/2 full). I will be giving up a good portion of my frunk, but it's a Square, so room for crap is no big deal and I never really used the frunk anyway. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[Jamie]

Dangit, the guy can even make a custom fuel tank! This has been a very interesting project to follow, and I bow to a great craftsman. As a retired photographer I'm appreciative of the excellent images made in some awkward positions. I'm constantly amazed by the projects that some 'teener gearheads will tackle when they have the skills and tools to get 'er done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[Jakeodoule]

Nice work Nate! really cool ride!

[aircooledtechguy]

Thanks for the kind words guys; it's been a really fun project so far. . .

Last Friday, I cleaned and treated the new tank with POR-15 tank treatment to seal and treat the rust and any minor pin holes that may have been present after all the welding. It has to cure for a full 4 days afterwords, so on Saturday, I painted it and under coated the bottom, added a new fuel sock screen and a new petcock.

Today was the swap-out day. I had to remove the breather tube and do some minor surgery to it to make it fit the new height so a low point was not created and block proper breathing.

Before:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1341873464.1.jpg)

After:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1341873464.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1341873465.3.jpg)

I added 2 gallons from a can I had, then proceeded 1 mile away to the filling station where I proceeded to top it off with an additional 17.2 gallons. I was expecting somewhere around 17 gallons total, so i was a bit surprised when the total ended up being 19.2!!.

No leaks (whew!) due to the POR-15 sealer I'm sure. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) As was expected, the car has a heavier feel at the wheel at slow speeds due to the added weight right over the front wheels, but it's not excessive and the added weight where I need it going into a corner will be welcomed. I plan to auto-X this car and hopefully use it on an occasional track day.

I did get around to putting the car on a vacant truck scale this weekend (before the tank swap). It weighs 2200# total with just over 800 on the front axle and 1400 over the rear axle. I'm going to have to check it again now that I have made this significant change to the bias. Even though the rear is significantly heavier, it doesn't act that way. I think the wider slightly cambered tires and the rear sway bar help a lot with it sticking. But I also suspect that lowering the center of gravity (by lowering the motor and trans in relation to the body to get it all to fit), has really made the biggest difference. This may sound far fetched, but I believe that this thing may be able to keep up with my Porsche 914 on a twisty road; no problem. It feels that firm in the corners. Once I get my new seats installed, I'll really be able to lean on it in the corners without feeling like I'll be flung out of the seat. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Speaking of new seats. . .

Got my Porsche 911 seats back from the upholstery shop this morning. I’m lovin’ how they turned out. We used stock VW black basket weave for the inserts so they look more at home in the VW. Then I chose red welting and stitching to accent the black. The car will be painted hot rod black with red pin stripping so these should accent the final look really well. I do like the clean look of the stock, low-backs, but these are safer and if I kept the low-backs I would never be able to get it the car onto a race track in the future.

I had seat heaters installed so this winter my wife should be comfy and I should hear no complaints.

Before:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1341873465.4.jpg)

After:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1341873466.5.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1341873467.6.jpg)

[Mr.242]

ARE you fricken kidding me? Nate...you've been hiding your talents way too long.

Nice work and you da man!

[aircooledtechguy]

I finally got the chance to install the new seats. Man are they comfy!! My seating position is a lot better and they are mounted about 1 inch lower than the stock seats. This helps the viewing of my gauges and lowers my center of gravity (which can't be a bad thing since I'm a big guy).

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1342051725.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1342051726.2.jpg)

[914werke]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Tom]

Nice work Nate. What a cool shop car! Would putting baffles in the tank help with weight transfer left to right?
Tom

[OU8AVW]

Awesome! Simply Awesome!

[aircooledtechguy]

Would putting baffles in the tank help with weight transfer left to right?

Yeah, it most definitely would. Actually, I meant to add a set into the lower half of the tank to keep fuel from sloshing away from the p/u tube, but in my haste to get-r-done, I totally forgot until I was on my last 6" of welding. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I may end up having to make another tank anyway due to the front-end swap that's in the future, so I might have to re-visit this all over again anyway. If I do have to make another tank, I want it to be aluminum and fully baffled top to bottom to keep the sloshing down.

[aircooledtechguy]

The Porsche fornication continues. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) Made a couple refinements to the shifting and to the e-brake this week.

Last weekend I attended John Walker's annual Porsche swap in Seattle. I scored a perfect '72-'89 Porsche 911 shifter. This is the original style of shifter that was used with my 912E (923) 5-speed. Until now I have been using a slightly modified '73-'76 Porsche 914 shifter and while it worked well, it lacked the reverse lock-out of the 915 style shifter. However this style if shifter is no bolt-in part. I had to cut the ball off the bottom of this shifter and weld on the linkage mount off the 914 shifter in order to have the shift pattern right. Then I had to carefully cut a window behind the shifter tower so that I could access the shift adjustment bolt. Then I also had to cut a slot in the front and shave down some of the right fwd edge in order to continue to use my Porsche heater switch. Viola!! Smoother, even ore positive shifting with reverse lock-out!!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1344565430.1.jpg)

Next was the e-brake handle. Since I upgraded the rear brakes using 914 rotors w/ 912E calipers, I had to switch to a hydraulic e-brake. The lock ratchet worked O.K. (barely O.K.) but needed both hands to dis-engage. I figured at first, no big deal. But after a couple months driving it, I really got tired of 2-handing the brake handle. So my solution was to shorten the handle 4" and add a boss to the top that would work the piston of the slave cylinder. I also shortened the actuator arm to get it to all fit and work like a stock e-brake, but this one REALLY grabs the brakes now!!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1344565431.2.jpg)

[aircooledtechguy]

I finally got a chance to really put the "Squarsche" through it's paces on a long twisty road yesterday. I connected up with members of the Chuckanut Sports Car Club after work yesterday and we sprinted up to Artist Point and back on Mt Baker, in NW Washington state. This drive was my first real test of the engine, trans, suspension mods, brakes and virtually everything I have been doing to the car thus far. The drive is about 100 miles round trip and begins at about 100' above sea level. During the first 35 miles, it's a fast sprint with un-impeaded speeds averaging between 50mph and 75 mph through some farm lands & forest with beautiful stretches that border the Nooksak River as it gently climbs to about 1500'. The drive then gets progressively twistier as the rate of ascent steepens in the final 12 miles. This is where it becomes really fun. In the final 12 miles you climb to 5100' with the better part of that in the final 6 miles. There are virtually no straight stretches of road with which to allow your mind to wander and take in the beautiful views. In all the years I've been driving this road, I have yet to enjoy the scenery except from the summit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

The car handles really well for having a weight bias of 37/63 (37% front - 63% rear). When I see the numbers like that I immediately think, "this should make a nice drift car", but it doesn't handle like I expected. Flat in the corners and the rear-end was firmly stuck to the road in all but the most extreme situations. There are a couple fast left-right-left-right corners that if you carry too much speed in and have to stab the brakes, you can feel the rear-end getting a little light and it whips a bit during the transition, but I experience that too in my Porsche 914 (with a 49/51 weight bias), so it's the nature of the beast. It does push going into a corner hard because there is so little weight in the front. However, I was a little pressed for time getting to the meeting place and totally forgot to fill my extra large 20 gallon tank before the drive. So I not only had about 1/3 of a tank of fuel, but also had all that weight sloshing side to side aggravating the problem. So next time I'll be filling the tank first. I still plan on shedding some weight off the rear and relocating the battery to the front and as much other stuff as I can.

The motor pulls like a freight train above 3K even in the thinner air. At 4K+ it really gets a pissed off sound that I just love. :twisted: AFR averaged between 12.7 & 13.5 on the LC-1. The Porsche disks could haul the 2200# car down to sane speeds in a hurry and I never felt the pedal fading. The Porsche 912E trans-axle has PERFECT gearing for this motor and the car. 2nd is low enough that I could still have good power getting out of the tight switchbacks. 3rd is my favorite gear since you can easily rev it to about 65mph before getting close to the red-line. 4th was good for cruising at even speeds through fast sections where I still wanted instant power on tap at higher speeds. There were only a few places that I could even engage 5th on this road since speeds were generally 65mph and under in the upper sections. Once we pass the snow plow barn, the pace really intensifies with speeds between 60-80mph.

Overall, I could not be happier with the results. This car will absolutely SMOKE my Porsche 914 in every aspect except getting into the corners (the under-steer). It pulls harder, brakes faster, lays flatter and sounds meaner (and that really the most important thing, right?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) )

For your viewing enjoyment, here's the 1st leg of the drive from the summit down to the ski lodge. The second leg will be up loaded hopefully tomorrow. BTW, I'd like to thank Nord (in the silver G35) for waving me by (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I-2T0ZghD8&feature=plcp

[FourBlades]

This is such a great thread.

You've got some serious car building skills. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

John

[NORD]

I'm glad you all got to see I let Nate by me. I followed him down and that

square back runs pretty good for a VW. Nate was lieing about the speeds

we were going though My disclaimer " we never excedded the posted speed

limits" Nate's speedo must be wrong. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[aircooledtechguy]

Nate was lieing about the speeds

we were going though My disclaimer " we never excedded the posted speed

limits" Nate's speedo must be wrong. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Everyone knows a VW can't go that fast (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Here's an action shot via the GoPro on Troy's Honda

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1346469104.1.jpg)

[speed metal army]

I love this thing! Buddy of mine is scooping a notch next week...
Question!
Why the heck did you weld up the tank,then braze on fittings? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[aircooledtechguy]

Question!
Why the heck did you weld up the tank,then braze on fittings? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

That's a great question. . .

When building the tank, I had to remove the super long neck at the base and shorten it. The filler necks on the tanks are originally brazed on at the factory. I believe it's because it was easier to have a guy braze the tight fitting slip-joint rather than have to weld it by hand. The joint is originally like a sweated copper plumbing pipe joint. The reason I brazed my new neck on was because once you have metal that is contaminated with brass from previous brazing, there is no way to weld to it with a MIG, TIG or any other traditional welding method, so your only option is to braze to it again.

The two half shells are machine welded together with a machine that welds as it rolls along the seam (kind of a rolling, continuous spot welder). Since they are welded in the traditional way without brass, I could simply cut the joint apart and then weld to it.

As for the return nipple on the bottom,. . . I already had the oxy/acet. torch out but the real reason is that for sealing up a small tube like that where the fit is really tight, brazing is the easiest and cleanest solution. Welding a tube that is almost laying flat against the tank is a total PITA to get sealed then you risk burn-through in the process. Brazing it takes seconds and burn-through is darn near impossible.

[speed metal army]

Question!
Why the heck did you weld up the tank,then braze on fittings? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

That's a great question. . .

When building the tank, I had to remove the super long neck at the base and shorten it. The filler necks on the tanks are originally brazed on at the factory. I believe it's because it was easier to have a guy braze the tight fitting slip-joint rather than have to weld it by hand. The joint is originally like a sweated copper plumbing pipe joint. The reason I brazed my new neck on was because once you have metal that is contaminated with brass from previous brazing, there is no way to weld to it with a MIG, TIG or any other traditional welding method, so your only option is to braze to it again.

The two half shells are machine welded together with a machine that welds as it rolls along the seam (kind of a rolling, continuous spot welder). Since they are welded in the traditional way without brass, I could simply cut the joint apart and then weld to it.

As for the return nipple on the bottom,. . . I already had the oxy/acet. torch out but the real reason is that for sealing up a small tube like that where the fit is really tight, brazing is the easiest and cleanest solution. Welding a tube that is almost laying flat against the tank is a total PITA to get sealed then you risk burn-through in the process. Brazing it takes seconds and burn-through is darn near impossible.

Well there ya go! Makes sense to me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[aircooledtechguy]

Here's the 2nd leg from the ski lodge down about 7 miles or so. . .

http://youtu.be/TwWxfx1n23M

[aircooledtechguy]

The relentless quest for more power and speed continues. . .

Ever since installing the 5-speed, I was forced to go back to using the stock Porsche flywheel. It's a nice forged piece, but damn this thing is boat anchor @ 17+# compared to the conversion flywheel I had on it that weighed in at about 12.5#. Believe it or not, when I had to switch back to the Porsche flywheel (due to installing the Porsche 5-speed), I also upgraded to the larger P&C set upping my displacement 85cc and the car got a bit SLOWER. . . This COULD NOT STAND!! So I did some calling around and found a local place to lighten a spare Porsche flywheel I had laying around. They were able to conservatively shave a full 5.5# off and still leave me tons of meat on it. I'll bet they could have gotten another 2# if they had not conservatively done it. Next time, I'll tell them to go crazy with it!!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1348070677.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1348070678.2.jpg)

I'm SUPER happy with the results. Instead of using HP and torque to spin that heavy flywheel, the motor can now put that lost energy to my tires, and these things are gonna pay for their past 6 months of laziness. :twisted: The car is MUCH quicker getting to a given speed. It's lighter, but not so light that it is jerky to drive and still drives like stock. Coincidentally, I had the opportunity on the way in this morning to test the added acceleration against a guy in a winged H*nda fart-car. I don't think he ever had the chance to see that I have a blue trunk lid that doesn't match the rest of the car. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

I also removed my rear hub assemblies and modified them for Porsche 930 press-in wheel studs. One thing VW really missed the boat on is using wheel bolts instead of studs and nuts. I only did the rears for now since I'm planning to change the entire front-end this winter. Instead of using steel nuts, I modified a set of Porsche alloy nuts on my lathe for use with the long studs. Now tire changing will be a breeze. Especially since I have to use 1/4" wheel spacers on the back. What a PITA to hold the wheel AND spacer when using the lug bolts. . . :evil: BTW: the photo makes it look like the lugs are not pressed in straight, but that is just an illusion due to zooming in for the photo (I blame the jerk behind the lens (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) ).

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1348070678.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1348070679.4.jpg)

The final thing was that I made a significant change to the end of the shift linkage where it mates to the Porsche trans-axle. Over the past 6 months, I had come to realize that my dimensions were off just slightly on a couple things and this resulted in a "compressed" shift pattern which sometimes made 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 4th gear changes a bit tricky. So after lots of thought and staring at it from underneath, I realized the error and corrected them. Thankfully it turned out to be a fairly simple fix after some careful measuring, cutting and welding. The result is that now it shifts *EXACTLY* like a stock Porsche 911. All gears are super positive, the shift pattern is spread out like stock and I have not missed a shift since, even in fast power-shifting. I even had a client stop by who drives a Porsche 911SC with the same trans and shifter and asked him to shift it through the gears and tell me what he thought. He said it felt better than his Porsche!! That's what I was going for, so the design is finalized and I can put the shifting to bed once and for all. 8)