New car broke down, Fixed the problem, put together a tool kit Options

[euro911]

Didn't I see a pic of you hauling a Christmas Tree in one of your cars, Mike?

[bigkensteele]

I will also add barrel nuts to my kit. I was out for a spin yesterday when my throttle went to the floor. Luckily, I was on a downhill back-road with nobody behind me. I was able to coast it down the hill until there was a good place to pull off. The cable had pulled out of the barrel nut on the TB. I was fortunate that the nut stayed in place rather than dropping down where I would never find it on the side of the road. Had it fixed in 5 minutes.

[dlestep]

Note to you business minded guys: We need someone to remanufacture these boards. They are going to get worse...

The photo shows "normal average condition" relay board (underside).
The major cause of problem appears after sheet metal screws holding the
voltage regulator bite and crack the hardened original podding compound.

I would suggest the following: Recondition your relay board yourself.
Pick out the broken podding and expose all the metal traces.
Physically remove all the corrosion from each trace.
Chemically clean them as well with a good contact cleaner. Electricity flows near
or at surface, not in the core of the material.
Ensure that no traces cross or touch each other. "Ring-out" all electrical runs with an ohm meter.
If you have a stuborn trace that wants to touch neighboring traces, use a non-
conductive material, (wood, plastic) as a spacer to separate them.
Use podding compound, (readily available at any electrical shop.)
Pour podding compound slowly over the entire bottom of the relay board,
ensuring all metal surfaces are covered.
Allow to cure.
Replace the voltage regulator's original pointed sheet metal mounting screws with
flat bottomed phillips head machine screws and nuts.
I've refurbished four of these boards in the same manner and I never have been
attacked by gremlins again.

[JStroud]

Note to you business minded guys: We need someone to remanufacture these boards. They are going to get worse...

The photo shows "normal average condition" relay board (underside).
The major cause of problem appears after sheet metal screws holding the
voltage regulator bite and crack the hardened original podding compound.

I would suggest the following: Recondition your relay board yourself.
Pick out the broken podding and expose all the metal traces.
Physically remove all the corrosion from each trace.
Chemically clean them as well with a good contact cleaner. Electricity flows near
or at surface, not in the core of the material.
Ensure that no traces cross or touch each other. "Ring-out" all electrical runs with an ohm meter.
If you have a stuborn trace that wants to touch neighboring traces, use a non-
conductive material, (wood, plastic) as a spacer to separate them.
Use podding compound, (readily available at any electrical shop.)
Pour podding compound slowly over the entire bottom of the relay board,
ensuring all metal surfaces are covered.
Allow to cure.
Replace the voltage regulator's original pointed sheet metal mounting screws with
flat bottomed phillips head machine screws and nuts.
I've refurbished four of these boards in the same manner and I never have been
attacked by gremlins again.

Thanks for the detailed instructions, with this and the link Andy posted rebuilding the relay board should be a doable project.

Thanks
Jeff

[ClayPerrine]

On the subject of carrying spare throttle and clutch cables...

Make sure you have ALL the hardware too. Barrel nuts, clutch clevis and the 7mm nylock nut, cable ends, etc. Remember, when the clutch cable breaks, it usually breaks between the pulley and the clutch arm. So that part of the cable drops down on the road, never to be seen again. And it has teh 7mm nut and the clutch clevis attached. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) So if you don't have spares, even with another cable you are not going anywhere.

[Lennies914]

Thanks Lennie I'll keep that in mind. Hey how's your project coming, are you going to be working on it tomorrow? I might be looking for somewhere to take a drive to.

Jeff

Jeff,
I've got a couple spare relay boards. Let me know if you need one.
Lennie

Sorry Jeff, I just read your response. I'm working on it every night and weekend, I painted it Friday night. Now the fun begins of swapping over all the parts.
If you decide to go for a drive just shoot me a pm.

[JFJ914]

Note to you business minded guys: We need someone to remanufacture these boards. They are going to get worse...

The photo shows "normal average condition" relay board (underside).
The major cause of problem appears after sheet metal screws holding the
voltage regulator bite and crack the hardened original podding compound.

I would suggest the following: Recondition your relay board yourself.
Pick out the broken podding and expose all the metal traces.
Physically remove all the corrosion from each trace.
Chemically clean them as well with a good contact cleaner. Electricity flows near
or at surface, not in the core of the material.
Ensure that no traces cross or touch each other. "Ring-out" all electrical runs with an ohm meter.
If you have a stuborn trace that wants to touch neighboring traces, use a non-
conductive material, (wood, plastic) as a spacer to separate them.
Use podding compound, (readily available at any electrical shop.)
Pour podding compound slowly over the entire bottom of the relay board,
ensuring all metal surfaces are covered.
Allow to cure.
Replace the voltage regulator's original pointed sheet metal mounting screws with
flat bottomed phillips head machine screws and nuts.
I've refurbished four of these boards in the same manner and I never have been
attacked by gremlins again.

So, how do you clean them so you can solder????? Details please.