Here is a how to for dent removal Not just filling it up with plastic, Or... When your cracker jack box has a nasty surprise Options

[rick 918-S]

Like I've said before. When your working on old cars you have to realize they are like a box of Cracker Jacks. Everyone has a surprise. In most cases it's a cheap nasty surprise. In this case The dent in this panel was not that bad. The problem became complicated but the person that filled it in. Instead of working the damage out the person took a pick hammer and drove about a hundred dents in the panel trying to chase high metal from the top of the panel being driven down. Normally I would just replace a panel that was damaged to this degree. But this is a special car. There is zero rust so I will take the time to bump the panel back into shape. There will still be a finishing glaze used but in a manor appropriate for restoration not amature night at the Drive Inn Autobody Shop.

Here's what I Found when I started stripping off the panel.





I used a Tig welding rod so you could see how deep the damage is.




Here are only some of the tools I used. I also used a couple wood blocks ground into different contours as a backer for shrinking.



I'm sure some of you have never really tried to work a serious dent and wonder how to start. In this case I started with this heavy dolly. I used every combination and angle of this thing to get up into the curve. Don't be afraid. Worse case, you end up cutting the panel off and replacing it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Think out of the box. You can't alway swing a hammer up inside a tight panel. Sometimes you need a fist!






Here it is roughed in. I used the above dolly, and a couple other heavy blocks. Just because I call the tools heavy doesn't mean you abuse the panel. Lots of light blows spread out over the area while off hammering on the outside of the panel with help bring things around.




Here's the panel after about 3 solid hours of blocking, bumping and shrinking. I rough in the panel and then spray paint it. You can just dust a light coat of spray paint or use dykem if you have it. Then I use my bulleye pick and carefully and slowly work the low spots out as I check the panel with my body file. This photo is after I filed the panel then used a long board sander with a new sheet of 36 grit to check the panel. You can use the straight lines of the sander and check the panel with a light. The side panel was sanded with a 8" DA





There are still several pick hammer marks left in the panel from the last guy but I will work them out over the weekend and get them close. Like I said there will still be a fine glazing filler used to define the final shape. I think you'll all appreciate the final product.

[3d914]

Awesome work Rick. Thanks for the insights.

The dolly work I can understand, but can you elaborate on "shrinking"?

[rick 918-S]

I'll add more about that later. Let me get a couple photos to add if I can.

[r_towle]

I am just going to ship you my beatster....
I got one fender close, but I am about 20 steps back from your handy work and I was done IMHO...haha

Awesome work buddy.

rich

[Socalandy]

Crazy mad skills sir!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) I'm still over working the hammer and making more work for myself

[rick 918-S]

I am just going to ship you my beatster....
I got one fender close, but I am about 20 steps back from your handy work and I was done IMHO...haha

Awesome work buddy.

rich

Where yout been buddy!

[rick 918-S]

Crazy mad skills sir!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) I'm still over working the hammer and making more work for myself

Your car is coming along nicely Andy!

[Tom_T]

Rick,

I haven't seen a panel master like you work since my Uncle's good buddy back in the 60's on his Model A Roadster Hot Rod! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

So many shops in the 60's - 90's & even now might or might not drill & pull a bit, then just slather on the Bondo & paint! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Thanx for sharing!
Tom
///////

[cary]

Nice work.

[rick 918-S]

Rick,

I haven't seen a panel master like you work since my Uncle's good buddy back in the 60's on his Model A Roadster Hot Rod! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

So many shops in the 60's - 90's & even now might or might not drill & pull a bit, then just slather on the Bondo & paint! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Thanx for sharing!
Tom
///////

Ya Tom, Around here we call them California rivets when they drill holes and pack on the mud. I have purchased really nice cars from Cali and found the only thing holding the body filler on the panel was those damned rivets. I had an MGA with a crease in the rear fender that was filled that way. The body guy never even ground off the paint. Also a 100-4 Healey with the same issue. It's like the guy was too lazy to reach inside the panel and bump out the damage.

[Tom_T]

Rick,

I haven't seen a panel master like you work since my Uncle's good buddy back in the 60's on his Model A Roadster Hot Rod! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

So many shops in the 60's - 90's & even now might or might not drill & pull a bit, then just slather on the Bondo & paint! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Thanx for sharing!
Tom
///////

Ya Tom, Around here we call them California rivets when they drill holes and pack on the mud. I have purchased really nice cars from Cali and found the only thing holding the body filler on the panel was those damned rivets. I had an MGA with a crease in the rear fender that was filled that way. The body guy never even ground off the paint. Also a 100-4 Healey with the same issue. It's like the guy was too lazy to reach inside the panel and bump out the damage.

Rick, it's laziness & high volume quick in-n-out shops that crank out the collision work, which apparently is what they're teaching at many of the tech schools now too, unfortunately. Low bid is usually not the best work!

Usually the "mud" cracks or falls off within a couple of years! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I've seen a couple of what would otherwise be very valuable 356s around here with huge chunks of bondo coming off the body! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[zymurgist]

Very cool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[westtexass2k]

Have you ever used a shrinking disc? I haven't tried one myself a friend of mine used one aon his 55 Chevy project and got great results.

[VaccaRabite]

The same fender on my car was and is worse then that. At the time I did not have the knowledge or skills to fix it.
I still don't have the skills.

Zach

[rick 918-S]

Have you ever used a shrinking disc? I haven't tried one myself a friend of mine used one aon his 55 Chevy project and got great results.

I don't have one. I've been looking at them on ebay but haven't bought one. I think the side of this panel would be a good candidate with all the pick hammer marks the other guy drove into this panel. I'm having to bump them back out then block them level. It takes hours to work some of the waves it creates. So far I haven't found anything that will require the torch and quench method. Just a serious investment of time. The panel hasn't work hardened yet so I'm still ok.

[majkos]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Great thread, Rick.

You make it look so easy, but I'm glad you mention it took three hours
between pics.
You cannot rush perfection, it's a lot of Love (LABOR)

[Jacob]

Nice job Rick.

[Jacob]

Nice job Rick.

[worn]

Nice job Rick.

Really nice job Rick. Thank you for showing this. I would have made up a home-built hammer or something - never thinking of using the dolly as a moving object. This kind of info really helps. Finding it later on with a million threads is another story (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[ww914]

Nice work Rick. Looks like you've been reading Cass' book.