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> Rick - I need your help, chassis twist
rick 918-S
post Mar 18 2012, 11:16 PM
Post #21


Hey nice rack! -Celette
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QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Mar 18 2012, 11:59 PM) *

Rear catches are out, front quarter windows & caps are out too. door panels tomorrow and let the cutting begin.

one last question, i will put the porta power at the base of the long and the rear firewall, the front, I presume that i will push on the panel flange at the upper hinge height (or should it be higher?)


Stay about the upper hinge height. Use blocks of wood or thick rubber pads and watch to see that your not crushing the pressure points where the port-o-power cintacts the body. The windsheild frame should be in the right place. Don't tweek that unless your vent window is binding. It shouldn't be..
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FourBlades
post Mar 19 2012, 08:05 AM
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I'd like to see a lot of pictures of how this works.

I did the same thing to my passenger side when I welded in my Engman.

The door closes fine but the gap is really small.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

John
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TravisNeff
post Mar 19 2012, 08:57 AM
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I will be documenting this all the way through, good, bad or indifferent. i know there are a lot of people on here that have run into an issue with a bent tub
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TravisNeff
post Mar 19 2012, 07:38 PM
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I did my cuts like I showed you before, only cutting through the stiffening kit. I pushed out the passenger cowl - going very slowly, rechecking the door fit and top. the passenger side might need a little more, but I decided to do the drivers side a push and looks like I am going in the right direction.

heading back out to take some measurements and snap y'all a couple of pics.
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TravisNeff
post Mar 19 2012, 09:11 PM
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the car on jackstands, notice that i have the jackstands behind the cowl, this will give me a little more leverage


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TravisNeff
post Mar 19 2012, 09:12 PM
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here's how i was positioning the porta power


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TravisNeff
post Mar 19 2012, 09:14 PM
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here's the gaps after the push, looking a lot better in the front. the rear has an even gap, but it's big. the passenger side quarter panel was replaced at some point and it was put in a little screwy - more on that later.


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TravisNeff
post Mar 19 2012, 09:15 PM
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tomorrow i will push back the driver's side of the targa bar.
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76-914
post Mar 19 2012, 09:54 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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rick 918-S
post Mar 19 2012, 10:26 PM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Good idea with the stands. Be sure to check your targa bar to windsheild measurements. It would be easy to get ahead of yourself and end up wide at the top now. Good job so far! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
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TravisNeff
post Mar 21 2012, 09:31 PM
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a couple days ago i pushed out the drivers front cowl a bit, mostly there..

today I cut the drivers side door opening at the rear of the door. A litle pushing to from the front wheelwell (right behind where the heater tubes are) up to the seat belt recoil mechanism - removing the seat belt mech first of course). anyways - this side is done!!! just need to weld it back up.


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TravisNeff
post Mar 21 2012, 09:32 PM
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and a before pic - just for comparison. the drivers side is no longer a door slammer!


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MoveQik
post Mar 22 2012, 08:01 AM
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What size wheels can I fit?
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Looks good Travis. We leave at 1:30 tomorrow so hurry up!
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TravisNeff
post Mar 22 2012, 08:42 AM
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I am trying, but I am not holding my breath
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rick 918-S
post Mar 22 2012, 09:05 AM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Looking good Travis!
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sofi2t81
post Mar 23 2012, 11:33 AM
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Good to follow that thread.
I have the problem that the PO messed up my passenger door gap when restoring the hell hole. He welded in the inner wheel house without supporting the longs, so my door gap is 1mm at the top.
My plan is to but the car on jack stands. Push the door gap open like you did and then weld in the Engman kit with little heat as possible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Do you think that would work, or do I have to cut the longs? (I don’t like that idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) )

Peter
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TravisNeff
post Mar 23 2012, 12:09 PM
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Dont cut your longs!!!! I just cut through the stiffening kit only which was already installed
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rick 918-S
post Mar 23 2012, 12:10 PM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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QUOTE(sofi2t81 @ Mar 23 2012, 12:33 PM) *

Good to follow that thread.
I have the problem that the PO messed up my passenger door gap when restoring the hell hole. He welded in the inner wheel house without supporting the longs, so my door gap is 1mm at the top.
My plan is to but the car on jack stands. Push the door gap open like you did and then weld in the Engman kit with little heat as possible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Do you think that would work, or do I have to cut the longs? (I don’t like that idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) )

Peter


If there was no chassis stiffening done yet you should be able to move the gap. Once there, be sure to brace it before welding. Don't forget to check the targa top opening as you go.
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TravisNeff
post Mar 23 2012, 12:43 PM
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Show us a pic of where you are at
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rick 918-S
post Mar 23 2012, 10:52 PM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Mar 23 2012, 01:43 PM) *

Show us a pic of where you are at


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)
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