D-Jet WAAAAY To Rich, or JOES 2012 HERSHEY EMERGENCY THREAD Options

[jsayre914]

My 2056 w/ D-jet has almost 200 miles on it, i have been tweaking little things here and there. Today I was trying to adjust the TPS. I turned the ignition on and slowly opened the throtle till i heard 20 clicks and then i tightened it down. Got on the freeway and seemed to run a bit better (less bucking) but then i drive 30 min and starts jerking like crazy

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I am loosing at least 1 cylinder under steady cruise and pick it back up on accleration. I get to the end of the freeway and i cant even idle, feels like running on 3 but still has full power. I also hear a knocking sound.

shut it down. put the tps back where it was, pulled the plugs. BLACKer than black. Wipe them off and start it back up. Engine is idling rough and i smell gasoline strong from the exhaust.

I pulled the wire off the head temp sensor and grounded the lead to the negative side of the battery, and I think it helped. I also adjusted the idle screw and the knob on the ecu till it seemed like it smelled less like gasoline.

Here I am, firing on all 3 with full power, engine pulls strong but a lot of misfiring due to rich fuel i believe


what the hell is going on here???




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[Jake Raby]

Whats the fuel pressure?

Remedy this NOW, else the rich running on the fresh rings, pistons and cylinders will really suffer. Fuel is a solvent, not a lubricant and NOTHING is worse during break in than running rich. I'd prefer lean over rich at start up.

Verify fuel pressure and buy an AFR meter to stop the guess work.

[jsayre914]

Whats the fuel pressure?

Remedy this NOW, else the rich running on the fresh rings, pistons and cylinders will really suffer. Fuel is a solvent, not a lubricant and NOTHING is worse during break in than running rich. I'd prefer lean over rich at start up.

Verify fuel pressure and buy an AFR meter to stop the guess work.

fuel pressure is steady at 29

[76-914]

disconnect the TPS and see what happens

[jsayre914]

disconnect the TPS and see what happens

Please explain,

disconnect the vacume line and plug it?

[TheCabinetmaker]

Yes on the tps. You need to set it with an ohm meter.

[76-914]

disconnect the TPS and see what happens

Please explain,

disconnect the vacume line and plug it?

Just pull the molex conn off. the rubber covered 4-5 pin connector that plugs onto the TPS. It will run w/o it. If it improves go back over your adjustment again.

[914itis]

Sounds like my issue when my points went bad last week are you running points?

[jsayre914]

Sounds like my issue when my points went bad last week are you running points?

electronic, no points.


I was reading on the search about similar symptoms, and i read somthing i dont understand. I read that if you spin the engine backwards you risk popping the mps.

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I just did a valve adjustment yesterday using the krusty method, with the plugs out i was rocking the car in fith with my hands to adjust the valves, i am sure i was turning the motor backwards and forewards.

Please tell me this is not a possibility.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Not a possibility. Really.

No vacuum line at the TPS.

Have you checked the MPS?

The Cap'n

[jsayre914]

Not a possibility. Really.

No vacuum line at the TPS.

Have you checked the MPS?

The Cap'n

oh tps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) i was thinking mps.

The mps holds vacume no problem for 5 min

[brenz]

Adjust the TPS using the procedure on Pelican with an ohm meter. I'll assume you weren't adjusting the mps.

ECU knob only affects the idle circuit, so set it half way to start with.

If you smell raw gas at the exhaust pipe then one of your injectors may be leaking or spraying too much. After having my old set cleaned I had one that didn't spray, it streamed. That cylinder didn't fire since the plug was too wet with fuel.

Of course vac leaks cause rich running. Disconnect everything but the mps and plug the hoses. Start it up and connect the hoses one by one to see what changes. A vac gauge between the mps and the intake plenum is also helpful. Should have at least 15"hg at idle (900 rpm). Maybe a little different for a 2056.

Lots of topics on rich running here. Use this search:
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=00240834...2%3Aajvfxschcgc

[Prospectfarms]

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When I smell gasoline, I think "leak." I recently posted where an injector was leaking so badly fuel actually ran out the tail pipe.

A very rich AFM creates acrid exhaust. The kind that burns your eyes, but not so much the smell of raw gas.

If you have a leaking injector be sure to check the sump. As another post has already pointed out. Liquid gas can get into the cylinder. From there it will contaminate the oil.

[jsayre914]

at work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
Work all day tommorow, wont get home till 10:30ish. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
Then Hershey Sat Morning (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


Looks like I will be there in the subaru. First year my car will miss it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad2.gif)



Will update after the show

[914itis]

Joe I am gonna
OSS your stereo, seems like this happens every tear before Hershey. Last year you had an issue and you didn't get is solved until the early morning, you worked all night but made it. I am sure you will again with the teener.

Best of luck .

[914itis]

Joe I am gonna
Miss your stereo, seems like this happens every year just before Hershey. Last year you had an issue and you didn't get is solved until the early morning, you worked all night but made it. I am sure you will again with the teener.

Best of luck .

[McMark]

Check the connector/wires at the intake air temp sensor. If those break or come unplugged it'll go rich.

[jsayre914]

I will check everything again tonight. But the more immediate problem now is not that it runs too rich, it is the fact that with new plugs and everything put back to the way it was 2 days ago. It does not want to run at all now.

I turn the key and it starts right up, no idle at all and billows white smoke with popping and horrible misfiring.

I am afraid that my too rich problem has already created a much bigger problem. If I had any time to work on it, I would.

I might get 2 hours tonight and 2 hours tommorow, to diagnose some more.


1) AFR was already checked and holds vacume
2) all wires from Harness have been disconnected and reconnected
3) plugs are all firing
4) timinig is on, although i slightly retarded it to stop the rattling
5) tps was 20 clicks

tonight

1) compression test?
2) valve adjustment?
3) change oil again?

whats the best plan of attack, if you only had 2 hours



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[TheCabinetmaker]

First I would take another look at everything for unplugged or misrouted hoses, and wires. I would make sure ts2 is pluged in, then I would pull a vacuum on the mps. Then I would ck the tps with an ohm meter. If none of that makes any dif, go to brad Anders site and do a complete system check at the ecu harness pins with a multimeter.

[brant]

recheck everything

for example... you say the MPS holds vacuum... have you checked that it still holds vacuum since the new rich condition?
(who knows... maybe the diaphram just now broke causing the condition)

I would recheck every single thing
I wouldn't drive it until you solve the problem


my guess is that you have an injector stuck open.
Pull all 4 of the injectors and test them.

brant