D-Jet WAAAAY To Rich, or JOES 2012 HERSHEY EMERGENCY THREAD Options

[McMark]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If you checked everything and it's all 'right' but the problem persists, then something needs to be rechecked because it's not right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[76-914]

Joe, I went back and read your build thread looking for clues. Rwilner asked but you did not answer re: which CHT sender? is it compatible w/ the ECU. Also, the MPS; is it compatible. Does the MPS also ohm out correctly. Did you ever dissconnect the TPS to check driveability? I noticed that your injectors were rebuilt then rebuilt again after setting awhile. These are suspicious to me. Have you rechecked your valve clearances. You didn't clamp the air cleaner down over the fuel return line did you? You also mentioned that it idled great when cold and stalled once warmed. Did you ever correct that? If your MPS, ECU and CHT sender are kosher and working and if your running the 9550 cam; roll your idle controll CC all the way. You'll never get it tuned to idle, otherwise. One more thing; did you verify that the mark on the dist is at the correct position? Hang in there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

EDIT: Can you post a pic showing your dist from the top view w or w/o the cap on it.

[jsayre914]

Joe, I went back and read your build thread looking for clues.

Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Rwilner asked but you did not answer re: which CHT sender? is it compatible w/ the ECU. Also, the MPS; is it compatible.

cht sender is correct and mps is correct, all are matched.

Does the MPS also ohm out correctly.

have no idea how to check that one.

Did you ever dissconnect the TPS to check driveability?

i did disconnect it and there was very little change at idle, but i did not drive it with the tps disconnected

I noticed that your injectors were rebuilt then rebuilt again after setting awhile. These are suspicious to me.

the injectors were flow checked and tested for leaks, they were rechecked because someone mentioned they can stick closed if sitting for to long.

Have you rechecked your valve clearances.

gonna do this tonight

You didn't clamp the air cleaner down over the fuel return line did you? You also mentioned that it idled great when cold and stalled once warmed. Did you ever correct that?

no, no

If your MPS, ECU and CHT sender are kosher and working and if your running the 9550 cam; roll your idle controll CC all the way. You'll never get it tuned to idle, otherwise.

dont understand this one, can you explain. roll what (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

One more thing; did you verify that the mark on the dist is at the correct position? Hang in there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

EDIT: Can you post a pic showing your dist from the top view w or w/o the cap on it.

dist is correct position, dont forget the car ran like a champ for 2 days. I am hanging on here, i dont have much of a choice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[76-914]

The 9550 cam makes for a rich idle. I'm running basically the same set up as you. This is normal for the 9550 cam. Back to when it was running; was it tuned to the numbers or had you done some corrective tuning. In other words, tweeking the timing and air mixture to get it running right? Once it's tuned correctly the mixture control will effect your idle. This is reaching but have you checked your trigger points and tested your Pertronix. I don't know if one of the four pick up wires on the Pertronix rotor can fry or be defective with out effecting the other 3 but if that is possible it would show up in a test.

[jsayre914]

UPDATE



Car is up and running.

1) multiple valves were too tight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)
I went with the traditional method, and used the grove in the flywheel and the groove on the impellar. Now is perfect. WOW what a difference that made.

2) TIMING (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

I need help on this one. I cant use the book specs on this 2056 right? It is only a starting refrence point. I need to advance the timing slightly right? And I should do this like 3 degrees at a time and take it on the freeway to see if i hear any ping/rattling then back off and keep it there??

Please advise 2056 gurus, and others.

Right now i am at 27 degrees and i feel that i have a little bog (retarded) running.



I WILL BE BRINGING THIS PUPPY TO HERSHEY AFTER ALL !!!!



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Happy 4:20

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[jsayre914]

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[Bleyseng]

28 BTDC is the normal setup at 3500rpms.
Is the vac advance hooked up?

[jsayre914]

28 BTDC is the normal setup at 3500rpms.
Is the vac advance hooked up?

yup, its hooked up and workin

i was thinking, if you change the displacment and compression and cam, you would have to adjust the timing to your own custom spec, no?

[Jake Raby]

Something tightened the valves up... That was probably stretched valves from running too hot~

Tight valves are a symptom.

[jsayre914]

Something tightened the valves up... That was probably stretched valves from running too hot~

Tight valves are a symptom.

Dont think it was tightening, as the engine never came half way up from the white area on the stock temp gauge. Think it was more of me not doing the valves properly.



to clarify:

no more white smoke out the pipe, just rich running and now i am trying to fine tune for optimal performance. I am certain that 29 degree mark is not giving this engine its full power.

[davesprinkle]

Pull off the manifold reference line from the back of the fuel pressure reg. If fuel leak out, then you've got a ruptured diaphragm in the reg and you're passing fuel down the vent line into the manifold.

According to the Cap'n, this isn't a common failure, but dammit, it happened to me. Makes the car run rich, but in my case, it still held fuel pressure.

[falconfp2001]

WOW, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Nice that you got it running again. Way to stick with it to fix the problem.

[underthetire]

Pull off the manifold reference line from the back of the fuel pressure reg. If fuel leak out, then you've got a ruptured diaphragm in the reg and you're passing fuel down the vent line into the manifold.

According to the Cap'n, this isn't a common failure, but dammit, it happened to me. Makes the car run rich, but in my case, it still held fuel pressure.

Never seen a vacuum line on a djet regulator?

[Bleyseng]

Pull off the manifold reference line from the back of the fuel pressure reg. If fuel leak out, then you've got a ruptured diaphragm in the reg and you're passing fuel down the vent line into the manifold.

According to the Cap'n, this isn't a common failure, but dammit, it happened to me. Makes the car run rich, but in my case, it still held fuel pressure.

Never seen a vacuum line on a djet regulator?

Only when some PO installs a Ljet fuel pressure regulator on a Djet FI system.

IF its boggy I'd look at the mech adv weights inside the dizzy sticking not giving you smooth adv with 30 yr old thick grease.
Usually about 28 degrees adv is the most you can time a type 4 without problems esp if you have the vac adv hooked up. (not the retard hose).

Rich AFR can also effect the way the car runs resulting in a Boggy feeling as the engine struggles with a rich mix..

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) A few days late here, but congrats. I'm glad you made it to Hershey. Good job.

[jsayre914]

For those of you that are following my emergency thread(s) I will give you the update. Drove to Hershey 30-40 min pushing it a bit, low engine temps and no lugging. I get to the hotel and the car is loud as a #$%er. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Running and idling low but not so bad. We drive 5 min to the show and I put the car up and let it cool off. Start adjusting the valves. I had them set at .008 & .006 and I had the loudest clackety engine in Hershey. I adjusted the valves to .006 all the way around because of members reccomendations. When I got to intake on #3...


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

It was soo loose I fit my pinky finger between the swivel foot and the rocker. I am talking (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) is going on here. That was the sound we were all hearing! I adjusted the screw about 8 full turns, almost all the way in, and I got it back to .006. Finished up the last cylinder and fired it up. It was sooooo much smoother and no more noise.



I got the car Home with no problems at all, car still pulls, and needs a lot of tuning but, the question now is:

What the #$% happend to intake #3 ?????


Next step

TRANSLOG GT

[brant]

you know you need to adjust your valves cold?
(overnight cold)

was the lock nut still locked on the loosened one?
if so its not a good sign

but if the lock nut came loose on its own, it could of vibrated the adjuster loose while unlocked.

[Dave_Darling]

Compare the adjuster and the position of the valve to the others. The adjuster can break (not good, but survivable) in which case it would be shorter than the rest. The valve tip may be closer to the head than the others. If so, it's a dropped valve seat. Head comes off to fix that--bad news.

Could be a lifter problem, or a bent pushrod. You have to pull the pushrod to check it and the tube to get the lifter out.

With luck, the adjuster came loose. Failing that, you're looking at various forms of bad news... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

--DD

[jsayre914]

you know you need to adjust your valves cold?
(overnight cold)

was the lock nut still locked on the loosened one?
if so its not a good sign

but if the lock nut came loose on its own, it could of vibrated the adjuster loose while unlocked.

Cold or hot valves ... a finger width is still a finger. Yes the adjuster nut was tight. Yes that is the only adjuster all the way in, all the rest are in a nice line.


Yes, it is not a good sign at all!

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Sounds like a dropped valve seat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) . Don't run it till you can confirm as mentioned above. Valve seat is one thing; P&C's are another.
are you running stock push rods or Chromoly?