Sasquatch Part III Audi 1.8t transplant..., PCV upgrades finally... Options

[Mike Bellis]

Whats going to be the fate of the rotary? Seems like it could be downsized to be a more reliable power plant for a street car.

The rotary is for sale as a whole or part. The "whole" is everything minus the intercooler and wide band O2. The adapter, clutch and tranny (with H gear) is sold. I have a rotary buddy that may take it all. I'll know next week. He will tear it apart, port it and dump it in an RX-7. $2k for the engine package with ECU, turbo, etc... If I part it out, I'll double my money but it is more of a hassle. The ECU and harness are worth almost $1k.

We shall see...

[Mike Bellis]

Pulled the drive train today. Kind of depressing since it still runs... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Some of these parts have new owners (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

The Audi/Boxster tranny is almost the same length as the 901. Only about an inch or so longer. From the bell housing to axle center looks exactly the same. At least you can't "eye ball" any difference. I may have to move it forward for engine clearance. No more than an inch. Looks like fitting it in will be no problem compared to what I have done already. The biggest bonus will be the modern transaxle. get in line now if you want to test drive it later. This thing shifts... well, it shifts just like a Boxster. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Night and day compared to a 901.

My ECU goes to 034 Motorsport next week. $850 to turn it into a 350hp ECU with no smog or un-needed junk. OUCH! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) But I get to keep the drive by wire. I may have to have them put it on the dyno to fine tune the flash once it's driveable.

Here's some side by side pics for those that want to see...

[Andyrew]

Mike,

What have you decided for the axle solution?

[Andyrew]

BTW I see some emission stuff still on your new engine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

Mike,

What have you decided for the axle solution?

Boxster transmission stubs, sway away custom axles. Simple (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Andyrew]

sway away custom axles? So 914 outer cv and boxster inner cv?

Why did you switch to boxster stub axles then instead of just going with the audi units? (I assume since they are custom axles they can make it for any cv...)

[ConeDodger]

What intercooler are you running Mike?

[Andyrew]

My guess is the air to water that he ran on the rotary.

[Mike Bellis]

What intercooler are you running Mike?

I running the same air to water intercooler I had with the rotary. The heat exchanger and fan are located in the drivers quarter panel behind the NACA duct. I may end up moving it to work better with the mathanol injection. Most "experts" (used loosely), say to inject after the inter cooler and before the throttle body. Right now the plumbing from cooler to TB is super short. If I rework the plumbing a little, I can increase the distance and get better evaporation/cooling from the meth. This may take a complete relocation of the intercooler. First things first. Get the motor mocked up and see what fits.

[Mike Bellis]

BTW I see some emission stuff still on your new engine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Haha! Yea, I have not stripped everything off yet. I'm going to work on the cradle first, then pull apart the Audi stuff. I ordered a cast iron SPA turbo manifold today after lining up the two engines. I'm guessing 034 will dial it in around 350hp once were all done. The SPA puts the turbo up high in the engine bay, so the exhaust will make an "S" turn down to the 4" exhaust.

[Andyrew]

350 with that turbo will take ~ 22psi. I had 330hp (255awhp) at 19psi and I ran ~ 96 octane, so with meth that should be about right. That turbo will take 25psi.. If it was ME, I would run 15psi on the street without meth, then have a scramble boost option on the boost controller hooked up to the meth and run like 22-23psi.. 275hp on the street with another 100hp at the push of a button/switch... Mmmmm Tasty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

That would keep the turbo and rods nice and healthy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Chris H.]

Hey Mike,

So the clearance looks pretty good? Not much hacking expected in the engine bay/trunk? Really cool build BTW.

[Mike Bellis]

Hey Mike,

So the clearance looks pretty good? Not much hacking expected in the engine bay/trunk? Really cool build BTW.

I may need to encroach into the rear trunk a little. Won't really know until I stuff it in there. If I do, it's important to keep room for the targa top. I think it will work out just fine.

I can hardly wait to drive this one. It will be as well mannered as a stock Audi engine until I put my foot into it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Thanks for the kind words. It helps keep me motivated... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

350 with that turbo will take ~ 22psi. I had 330hp (255awhp) at 19psi and I ran ~ 96 octane, so with meth that should be about right. That turbo will take 25psi.. If it was ME, I would run 15psi on the street without meth, then have a scramble boost option on the boost controller hooked up to the meth and run like 22-23psi.. 275hp on the street with another 100hp at the push of a button/switch... Mmmmm Tasty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

That would keep the turbo and rods nice and healthy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I need a new boost controller. My HKS crapped out on me. I've been running old school with a manual boost controller.

My Meth controller is progressive. at 10psi (or where ever I set it) it will start a low flow ramping up to the max setting. So either I get a new electronic boost controller or modulate the throttle/manual boost control to keep the pressure at bay. I will have 034 tune it to the max hp that is still reliable. No more speed boat action like the rotary. Although, fishtailing the car up the on ramp with McMark was fun! We'll see if this engine can do the same... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

[rohar]

Hey Mike,

So the clearance looks pretty good? Not much hacking expected in the engine bay/trunk? Really cool build BTW.

I may need to encroach into the rear trunk a little. Won't really know until I stuff it in there. If I do, it's important to keep room for the targa top. I think it will work out just fine.

I can hardly wait to drive this one. It will be as well mannered as a stock Audi engine until I put my foot into it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Thanks for the kind words. It helps keep me motivated... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

After putting a 16v on a 901 in this chassis, I'm pretty sure you shouldn't have to chop up the trunk. There's a few water fittings that are gonna want to go where the body currently is. It's easy enough to fab up new flanges and re-route. Much better solution than cutting up chassis steel.

[Andyrew]

I'd say you should get an EBC. You could always just have O34 tune the ECU to control the boost through the N75 valve and run a MBC to turn it down when you want. But you have enough money in it, I really think you should run an EBC... Better spool that way..

[Mike Bellis]

I have read about a couple guys blowing through the MAF without any problems. I am considering doing this and using a traditional BOV. wooosh! That way it doesn't go rich when it blows. They make a nice aluminum housing for the sensor instead of the stock plastic one. This engine will be set up more like a race engine than a commuter. Really all depends of what fits in the engine bay and how to plumb it.

[Mike Bellis]

Just for fun... Picture of my 3 turbos... Big differences

from left to right:
1) GT35R from the rotary (~600hp max)
2) GT28RS for the Audi (~350hp max)
3) McMarks future K03 from the Audi (~225hp max)

[Andyrew]

I have read about a couple guys blowing through the MAF without any problems. I am considering doing this and using a traditional BOV. wooosh! That way it doesn't go rich when it blows. They make a nice aluminum housing for the sensor instead of the stock plastic one. This engine will be set up more like a race engine than a commuter. Really all depends of what fits in the engine bay and how to plumb it.

I've had issues with MAF... Gone through PLENTY. (I have a box of 6 blown MAF's... Quite a chunk of change...)

See if 034 will tune your setup for a VR6 MAF housing(3" vs 2.75" or something like that). Or even better see if you can use a ford 4" MAF, You wont break that, and its much cheaper.. The issue is the stock MAF is maxed out shortly after 300hp, and running it at that point fries the internals for some reason.. A bigger housing lets you run more air through the same mass air flow, but the ECU needs to be tuned properly.


BTW when you get tired of 350hp you can always put some rods in, put 1k in the head and put a GT35R in for a nice solid 600hp and rev it to 9k (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

Got the cradle fabbed up. still needs some bracing and finishing. Need to cut the straight bar in front of the axle stub and weld in a drop loop for clearance. Most is 0.75" DOM, 0.120 wall and some 5/8" DOM, 0.120 wall tubing For the lattice sections. It weighs a little over 20lbs so far. Super rigid, no flex. I squeezed the engine into the bay. I have a copper shim (3/8')between the oil pan and the cradle bar. This will be the clearance for the engine. Some ratchet straps in place to hep level and center until the mounts are added to the cradle. The front has a triangulated arch and the rear is dual arches. I decided to go solid mount, no bushings. I know it will be a little louder and transmit the vibrations more, but this is the way both my V8's were and my old drag race Bug so I'm used to it.





My new fuel pump showed up today. The Audi need 4 bar of pressure (65psi). This is the standard pressure for the motor. If anyone needs a good 45psi pump PM me, I'll let it go pretty cheap.



I also got a Howe Pedal and Wilwood master for the clutch. 034 Motorsport sells an adapter for the stock slave to accept a -3AN fitting. No need for a custom slave and the adapter was cheap. Now I have to decide if I want to replace the brake pedal and master. The brakes work great as is so I may just leave it for now and ad it to the honey do list after I get it on the road.



I got the ECU back from 034. Re-flashed to race car spec. No smog junk or un-needed stuff.

More updates tomorrow! 8am to 7pm toady. I'm beat!