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> Engine Drop question, Been done to death I know.. just want to confirm
euro911
post Jan 8 2013, 04:21 AM
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If you have the space for one of these ... I highly recommend them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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JStroud
post Jan 8 2013, 09:17 AM
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QUOTE(stateofidleness @ Jan 7 2013, 11:50 PM) *

She's out! Tried the table jack, but it sits REALLY high even at its lowest height. Ended up doing it the HF dolly way... Sucked because I had already had the engine/trans out and on the table jack only to realize it was WAY too tall still... had to 3-jack it onto a separate dolly.. talk about scary and time consuming!

Ugh.. oh well.. official second notch on the ol' engine drop belt! Trying not to make mistakes on this one. Let's just say I labeled EVERYTHING!!




Those ramps you're using are really low, higher ramps would give you the room to use the table. Or just jack the car up higher when you're ready to slide it out.
Transferring to the dolly must have been fun.

Higher ramps for the back would make it easier, then use the smaller ones in front so the car is still close to level....it does help if it's level.

Hope this helps, looking good!

Jeff
(and not everyone can afford a lift Mark, even if they have the room) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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rhodyguy
post Jan 8 2013, 09:52 AM
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the double jack under the rear of the control arms method and lowering the car to the dolly, tires off, as george noted works slick. while the car comes down at an angle at the rear, you can pretty much match the angle by tilting the front of the engine up with a combination of 2x stock, 3/4"stock, and a few strips of plywood in between the engine and the furniture dolly. just loosen all the fasteners while the rear is still in the air.

k
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ThePaintedMan
post Jan 8 2013, 10:01 AM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Jan 8 2013, 10:52 AM) *

the double jack under the rear of the control arms method and lowering the car to the dolly, tires off, as george noted works slick. while the car comes down at an angle at the rear, you can pretty much match the angle by tilting the front of the engine up with a combination of 2x stock, 3/4"stock, and a few strips of plywood in between the engine and the furniture dolly. just loosen all the fasteners while the rear is still in the air.

k


Its just the safest bet in my opinion. I never want to spend much time under a car with jackstands, especially with a big project like that. Then you can slide the whole thing back in when done easier as well. I think doing it this way on my car (bear in mind no heat and no FI stuff to deal with) we had it out in 45 minutes. Installation took about 2 hours.

The long threaded rod deal is very cool though. I might try that one someday.
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jeffdon
post Jan 8 2013, 01:26 PM
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I rather like the threaded rod method. Its really slow, but thats ok, as I am usually doing this all on my lonesome.
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euro911
post Jan 8 2013, 01:27 PM
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I'm hep, Jeff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) ... but it's the best $2k I've ever spent on a tool (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

The HF hydraulic tables are nice. It can double as a tear-down bench or to transport your engine to a stand. Well worth the $ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

The only issue with the table is that you have to remove the handle to fit it under the car. I want to fab a fold-over mount for the handle.
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championgt1
post Jan 8 2013, 01:40 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Jan 8 2013, 07:52 AM) *

the double jack under the rear of the control arms method and lowering the car to the dolly, tires off, as george noted works slick. while the car comes down at an angle at the rear, you can pretty much match the angle by tilting the front of the engine up with a combination of 2x stock, 3/4"stock, and a few strips of plywood in between the engine and the furniture dolly. just loosen all the fasteners while the rear is still in the air.

k


We have done this 4 or 5 times. Easy peasy!
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Gint
post Jan 8 2013, 06:40 PM
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A couple of these are really good.

I'm still getting a mid rise lift. My four post rails are too close together to get a motor with tin in between them. And I really dislike being under a car on jack stands.
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turk22
post Jan 8 2013, 08:00 PM
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QUOTE(jsconst @ Jan 8 2013, 10:17 AM) *

QUOTE(stateofidleness @ Jan 7 2013, 11:50 PM) *

She's out! Tried the table jack, but it sits REALLY high even at its lowest height. Ended up doing it the HF dolly way... Sucked because I had already had the engine/trans out and on the table jack only to realize it was WAY too tall still... had to 3-jack it onto a separate dolly.. talk about scary and time consuming!

Ugh.. oh well.. official second notch on the ol' engine drop belt! Trying not to make mistakes on this one. Let's just say I labeled EVERYTHING!!




Those ramps you're using are really low, higher ramps would give you the room to use the table. Or just jack the car up higher when you're ready to slide it out.
Transferring to the dolly must have been fun.

Higher ramps for the back would make it easier, then use the smaller ones in front so the car is still close to level....it does help if it's level.

Hope this helps, looking good!

Jeff
(and not everyone can afford a lift Mark, even if they have the room) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)


what is the height of the ramps you are using with the HF table? I like the table idea, and the ability to raise the engine once its out to work on it is a nice option. What I don't like about the table is no access to the underside of the engine for cleaning or maintenace when its out.
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Gint
post Jan 8 2013, 08:07 PM
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You can transport it to a stand while on the wheeled table lift. I want one of those with my mid rise lift.
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